6 sticks of 3/8"x10' black iron cost more ($142) than 3/8"x60' of copper tubing ($92) at Lowes. Both can be a pain to work with. Soldering copper is time consuming and shark fittings are expensive. Black iron can be a bear to cut and screwing on fittings gets tiresome not to mention you will need to get ends threaded if you need smaller pieces.

I would assume someone isnt going to steal the black iron as much compared to copper. Copper would be easier to transport, cut, and add fittings.

6 of one half dozen of the other in my opinion

 

OK, due to the break in I need to replace the propane gas lines to the lights and stove. What are your thoughts on tubing versus pipe. Right now I'm leaning toward replacing everything with black ridged pipe. What are your thoughts, if I go with pipe what size do you suggest. Right now what is left and was there is 3/8 copper tubing. Light fixtures take a 1/8 inch NPT, so will need to reduce pipe size at light. I have one stove and about 12 lights. Total of all runs will equal about 125 to 150 feet of tubing or pipe.

Neither Gastite is the best out there right now the only problem is you need to be certified in it but if you know someone who can get it for you then you would be set little more expensive but you won't have to plague yourself as much fittings are threaded on with a little brass ring that goes on the end of the pipe.Depending on where you live I could get it for you if needed I am certified.

 

the last I remember is that the only thing on copper the gas company would approve is flare fittings..or black pipe..I used black pipe it was easier and less expensive.

 

Thanks Stroupy, Looks like good stuff, but price wise it's more than I want to spent at camp.

 

the last I remember is that the only thing on copper the gas company would approve is flare fittings..or black pipe..I used black pipe it was easier and less expensive.

What size pipe did you use?

 

We replaced all of our copper at camp with black iron on the outside due to someone stealing it . Not sure of the cost inside is still copper.

 

I recommend black pipe. No dielectric issues.

Blk pipe is easy to work with and you have far less issues installing and down the line. Rent a threader for a day or a weekend and you are good to go.

As far as fittings, buy more then you need and get a good selection of nipples pre-cut and threaded. Return the excess. Use a good sealant and your good to go.

Size depends on what the source is. If the supply comes off the PRV at 3/8" - run the line at 3/8 and reduce at the fixtures. If it comes in 1/2 - run half for the mains and if you chose - reduce the run outs. Volume is the issue with multiple fixtures.

If you run copper and it enters from a steel line or PRV - remember to install a dielectric union, or better a dielectric nipple. This will prevent future pinholes due to electrolysis.

Helpful hint - the fittings for 1/2 or 3/8 pipe fittings take up roughly 1/2" thread. A bit more or less depending on the threader set up and manufacture of the fittings.

Proper thread depth can be determined by being able to get three to three and one half turns between the fitting and pipe before hitting resistance. Pipe threads are tapered.

 

Thanks Bluetick, that was very helpful. Would you suggest that I also install a union near each fixture?

 

I recommend black pipe. No dielectric issues.

Blk pipe is easy to work with and you have far less issues installing and down the line. Rent a threader for a day or a weekend and you are good to go.

As far as fittings, buy more then you need and get a good selection of nipples pre-cut and threaded. Return the excess. Use a good sealant and your good to go.

Size depends on what the source is. If the supply comes off the PRV at 3/8" - run the line at 3/8 and reduce at the fixtures. If it comes in 1/2 - run half for the mains and if you chose - reduce the run outs. Volume is the issue with multiple fixtures.

If you run copper and it enters from a steel line or PRV - remember to install a dielectric union, or better a dielectric nipple. This will prevent future pinholes due to electrolysis.

Helpful hint - the fittings for 1/2 or 3/8 pipe fittings take up roughly 1/2" thread. A bit more or less depending on the threader set up and manufacture of the fittings.

Proper thread depth can be determined by being able to get three to three and one half turns between the fitting and pipe before hitting resistance. Pipe threads are tapered.

Wanted to add if you are threading pipe yourself a good threaded pipe is one or two threads past the die and don't use teflon tape it doesn't hold up with gas. Size of pipe depends on how long of a run you need. just wanted to add those things. Also don't forget about your drop legs usually made up of a tee a nipple and a cap

 

Don't they make a special tape for gas, think it's yellow in color? The drop leg, is that the same as, I believe they call it a sink? Do I need one at each light or just one in the main line?

 

you don't need tape, just get a good dope such as Blue Monster or Rectorseal. i would pipe it in with 1/2" steel and bush down to 3/8" at the appliances. i would also install a union and valve at every appliance.


-plumber.

 

also, i would install drip legs at every appliance as well.


Stroupy you really shouldn't be offering to provide gastite to anyone who is not certified. there's reasons it isn't sold to the public.

 

Agree 100%. The line size off the PRV will determine line size though.

Totally agree on the valves at EVERY applicance. Valves are only expensive when you buy them - priceless when you need them. All in all, they are not that much. Also go with a good quality ball valve.

 

Thanks guys, you all have been more than helpful. I've printed out the entire topic for easy reference when I start the job in the near future.
I don't think it will be too much of a problem. I have a fair amount of experience in plumbing, just not in gas, and some of my helpers are in the construction trade.
We will Get R Done
Thanks again

 

to be safe, before tying into the PRV, you could install a temporary air hose connection or schrader valve and a gauge.. then close all the valves and pump the piping up. put 5-10 lbs in it and see if it hold for 15 minutes or so. spray the fittings with bubbly water and you should be good to go.

 

also, i would install drip legs at every appliance as well.


Stroupy you really shouldn't be offering to provide gastite to anyone who is not certified. there's reasons it isn't sold to the public.

Whats the difference if he uses gastite or the black pipe he is doing it himself anyway and if he wanted I have a camp in 2g I would help him with it no big deal.

 

Thanks guys, you all have been more than helpful. I've printed out the entire topic for easy reference when I start the job in the near future.
I don't think it will be too much of a problem. I have a fair amount of experience in plumbing, just not in gas, and some of my helpers are in the construction trade.
We will Get R Done
Thanks again

In all things plumbing remember the cardinal rule:

Never start a project when the hardware stores are not open.



Good luck.

 

Do you know how to reset the PRV? You might need to do that when you turn on the gas again.

 

Do you know how to reset the PRV? You might need to do that when you turn on the gas again.

are we talking a pressure regular valve or a pressure relief valve. My hook up is just a pressure regular hooked to a 100# propane tank. So I guess my answer would be no.