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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So....getting nearer the end of my build...I'm getting ready to start finishing...


I've been reading about sanding vs scraping wood...


I think for my application I'd like to scrape it...


Problem is....i can't seem to find out "with what".


People talk about scraping instead of sanding but I can't figure out if they make a tool...or what hey are using...


Anyone scrape instead of sand and willing to share some insight???

I want my grain and curl to pop...i bought grade 4 curly maple...i wanna show it off! Lol. I think scraping will help achieve that...leaving a nice clean surface for the stains to do theor magic...



Thanx
 

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Watch a few youtube videos. It works very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanx alot!!!

That seems way too "simple". But then again one guy said he uses broke glass...lol


I guess the trick is the angle and the burnish...

I'm gunna see what o can do to this stock..I have a good bit of wood to remove.....figure instead of getting after it with a rasp I can practice with my scrapers and get a feel for it....


I've never understood sanding...why would wood cut cleanly with chisles and razors need sanded? The s out my thoughts were right and sanding is kinda the accepted thing now a days..

The big reason I think scraping is the way to go.. especially for this stock..is the sanding dust clogging up the finish...

Will it make any difference? I dont know for sure...but it makes sense to me...
 

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you can use anything for a scraper, I use old hack saw blades turned into scrapers for the barrel channel....
 

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I am just guessing at this, so take it for what it's worth, but couldn't you use a rasp or something equally aggressive to do the major removal portion, and scrape to fine tune/finish the job? Doesn't matter what it does to the surface to remove the wood aggressively at first if you scrape that surface off to finish.

I was talking to a builder who told me that he thinks a lot of people wind up backwards on this. They start with something really slow to remove wood, and then get frustrated and impatient and get more aggressive to "get it done." He said they should do it the other way around....more aggressive at first to get the "rough" part done and then get more careful and slow to finish up.

I'm enjoying "watching" you do this, as I'm taking my own notes on what you post for when I start a project of my own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Most my posts and PMs to you is me thinking out loud lol...i don't know if anyone reads half of what I type lol...glad you do!!

I will use a rasp/heavy paper etc to remove the bulk of the wood...i have like 1/4" on the left side of the buttstock to remove...

Then like you said...the finish will be with the scrapers...which I just ordered..

I've collected a small supply of tools now...but next time I will have them...



I didn't like the buttplate...so I did a little more final fitting last night and plugged the holes..i ordered a special tool to drill the holes..i just couldn't get them centered...when the screw sent in...even slightly off center it pulled the buttplate from where i want it to be... basically a spring loaded device that goes around the drill bit and the tip is angled to hold in a countersink... should be exactly what I need...


Drilled and screwed in the trigger last night as well..


I have to inlet the trigger guard and finish up the nose...then I can start shaping..


I am pretty sure at this point I have everything and it's a matter of some time and work between me and the rifle being done...lol


Gunna be a long finishing process...I'm not cutting corners and the wood and metal won't be finished quickly....
 

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If you need to remove wood aggresively, an angle grinder with a 36 grit flap disk or flat sanding disk is amazing. Thats what I use to rough shape hickory hammer handles.

Just be slow with it at first haha, I'd practice on a 2x4 or something first.
 

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I don't know about mauser, but taking a stock to a grinder would scare the bejeebers out of me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I purposely haven't fixed my Dremel yet because I don't wanna touch the rifle with it....


No way I'm taking a stronger to a $220 piece of maple lol....


I don't have THAT much to remove...if I had a true blank and had to start shaping I would see a power tool...but even then I have really aggressive rasps I'd likely use...they are basically cheese graters lol...they'll est wood quickly...
 

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Ahhh ok, I was thinking you had a bandsaw cut out of a stock with square edges. Yeah definitely don't use a grinder haha. Its more for making something square roundish quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No...in that case it'd make sense to get rid of it quickly...


Basically where I am is a shaped stock..i left the fat on though to prevent handling marks and such from the build..I've literally dripped blood on it on atleast 3 occasions lol...i have 1/16-1/8th inch of wood to remove before final finish scraping...


I got a little bit of final fitting and then it'll be time to take the car off..pour the nose piece and finish everything...
 

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you could try a spokeshave. 1/8th is a bit to scrape for my liking, but then again I hate hand finishing wood, I'd rather properly tune my machines then try and eyeball handfit precision.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No I'm not scraping that much...i will get after it with a rasp and course paper...

Then instead ofna sanded finish I'm going to use scrapers.


Before I take the fat off I will practice with the scrapers and get a feel for it..


Scraping sounds quicker than sanding..and should leave a nice smooth surface of clean fresh wood...


I've never heard of it..was taught to sand wood...and it really never made sense on why assuming you have a smooth surface and no tool marks etc..


This stock has some nice figure but has a lot of curl...i think scraping will help show off the curl...
 

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I use a double edged carpet blade , the ones with a slot in the middle of the blade .
These are razor sharp , but what I do is roll the edge on a stone and create a tiny burr or hook ..
This hook is what actually scrapes the wood ..
Once it gets a bit dull , resharpen with the stone ... I use these all the time and they last a long time ..
I do a demonstration at Dixons Gunmakers Fair .. and sell em as well !!!

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanx Allen!


Hoping to make it out there this year! We will see...




I have everything final fitted...shaped the nose....now I gotta cut my nose cap...i wanna pour it before I finish shaping because I know I'm gunna make a heck of a mess...

Will probably get the nose atleast prepped..maybe even poured today... tomorrow my Vex bit will be here...i will install the trigger guard and buttplate and get to shaping...


I really enjoyed shaping the nose...really started to look like a rifle and bringing it to life!
 

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that's what I use, but didn't want to say how to get the edge here
....
 

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I didn't do a nose cap on my rifle and it looks good....

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I thought about not putting a nosecap on when I found the one I bought wouldn't work...

Bit decided I've learned a lot on this build...why not learn to pour nose caps? Lol


It's shaped and ready to be poured..will look awesome if I can get it to pour right! Maybe tomorrow's project...

My Vex bit is at home so I will get the furniture on and start shaping tonight...

Work came up and cut into my day today...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So...i got my scrapers yesterday...


Without burnishing I was able to scrape easily....like...I've been missing it all my life lol... effortless..other than hand cramping is likely inevitable..but man..it's easy and leaves a nice clean surface...


I was just practicing on the "fat" that needs removed...i can't believe how easy it is to do...
 
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