The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Our camp is in Potter county and isn't used as often during the winter months. Typically, the water is drained late October/early November and not turned on again until Spring time. I want to configure drains and a system to make it easy to winterize so the water can be used during winter visits (especially hunting trips). It's a mobile home, so only HW tank, 1 bathroom and the kitchen sink needs addressed. Do you guys use air to purge or simply low-point drains?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,880 Posts
For 16 years, I had a 14x70 for a camp. It’s water source was a dug well. I had a jet pump with pressure tank suspended above the water level in the well, with an insulated cover on top. At the trailer, I had a frost free hydrant with a hydraulic hose attaching the hydrant to the water pipes of the camp. In the fall, usually mid November, I’d disconnect the fitting at the hydrant, and hook the hydraulic hose to the compressor and blow out every line. I’d put antifreeze in all the traps and toilet, and run a little through the pump in the washing machine.

If I visited in the winter, I could get water from the hydrant and manually refill the tank on the toilet, and replace the antifreeze when I left.

I built a new camp in 2009, and leave the heat on low. I do shut off the valve for the city water where it enters the basement. I shut the water off whenever I leave to go home, even in summer months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
At our camp we have PVC pipe running from the hot water tank, water tank and sinks and shower into one pipe to the outside, to drain the water outside. Provided you have enough of an angle to drain it all out , without worrying it will freeze in the pipe. when we drain , we shut off the ump, and hot water heater, open the valves on the tanks and open the spigots on the shower and sinks and wait abut 20 minutes and check the end of pipe outside and see if anymore coming out. If not we lock -up and leave. we use no air. hope this helps. we also put RV anti- freeze in the sink traps , shower trap and flush the toilet to empty the tank and put anti- freeze in the tank and toilet bowl as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
At our camp we have PVC pipe running from the hot water tank, water tank and sinks and shower into one pipe to the outside, to drain the water outside. Provided you have enough of an angle to drain it all out , without worrying it will freeze in the pipe. when we drain , we shut off the ump, and hot water heater, open the valves on the tanks and open the spigots on the shower and sinks and wait abut 20 minutes and check the end of pipe outside and see if anymore coming out. If not we lock -up and leave. we use no air. hope this helps. we also put RV anti- freeze in the sink traps , shower trap and flush the toilet to empty the tank and put anti- freeze in the tank and toilet bowl as well.
Northern, what you described is what I typically do at another family camp. Easy Peasy, right? The camp I posted about is my in-law's and I need to redo the water system to make it easy for my FIL to utilize the water. Currently, the disconnects and valves are under the camp and he crawls into the crawlspace to connect/disconnect. Which is why they don't turn the water on each time they go up in the winter months. A nearby campground has showers and the creek provides buckets of water for the toilet. I want to make everything accessible from either inside or at least not having to crawl underneath the camp. A trapdoor in the bathroom floor is an option because that would allow access to the necessary fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
That is what we have . A trap door in the bedroom to access the crawlspace , where the water tank and hot water heater is located and the piping to drain is. we have the pipe out thru the wall and to the outside to keep the moister out of camp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,344 Posts
The camp I go to has a tee in the pressure line from the well. Off the open end of the tee(the one not going to camp) they installed a gate valve. That is the lowest point of the whole system. Close the valve and turn on the pump to use. Open the valve and everything inside and it drains the whole system. There are valves on the pressure tank and HW heater to allow anything that may be sitting in those to drain. When not there all valves are left open. Only ever had a problem if someone forgot to open a valve. Otherwise it's been working fine for almost 40 years. No air, no antifreeze, just gravity and properly pitched lines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
337 Posts
At our camp we have PVC pipe running from the hot water tank, water tank and sinks and shower into one pipe to the outside, to drain the water outside. Provided you have enough of an angle to drain it all out , without worrying it will freeze in the pipe. when we drain , we shut off the ump, and hot water heater, open the valves on the tanks and open the spigots on the shower and sinks and wait abut 20 minutes and check the end of pipe outside and see if anymore coming out. If not we lock -up and leave. we use no air. hope this helps. we also put RV anti- freeze in the sink traps , shower trap and flush the toilet to empty the tank and put anti- freeze in the tank and toilet bowl as well.
We have the exact same set up. We are able to use the camp year round. I have heat tape on the water line coming into the camp in the crawl space. It's been working great for 30 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,954 Posts
The camp I go to has a tee in the pressure line from the well. Off the open end of the tee(the one not going to camp) they installed a gate valve. That is the lowest point of the whole system. Close the valve and turn on the pump to use. Open the valve and everything inside and it drains the whole system. There are valves on the pressure tank and HW heater to allow anything that may be sitting in those to drain. When not there all valves are left open. Only ever had a problem if someone forgot to open a valve. Otherwise it's been working fine for almost 40 years. No air, no antifreeze, just gravity and properly pitched lines.
What about traps at sinks & toilet, toilet tank, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,104 Posts
Pa- Plinker, we pour some RV anti- freeze in the traps and toilet tank and bowl to keep it from freezing in case the power goes off and we loose the heat. which we set on low.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,158 Posts
Our camp is a double wide in Potter Co. We have a well and hot water heaters (electric ) on each side.
We started out with one trailer then added on another.
When not in use during winter months we have a large compressor hooked into our water lines.
When leaving we drain both water heaters then blow out the lines with the compressor.
Can be a pain and takes some time to do but leaving the heat on ( cost wise ) is not an option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,158 Posts
Pa- Plinker, we pour some RV anti- freeze in the traps and toilet tank and bowl to keep it from freezing in case the power goes off and we loose the heat. which we set on low.
We dump water into the toilets to drain most on the water out of the bowl.
And pour anti freeze in drains, traps, toilets and tanks as well.
I've hunted and stayed in many counties in Pa. , but ya never know what kind of weather you'll get in Potter Co.
This past Turkey season, second week of May and we lost power for about 8 hours
due to the high winds and gusting snow squalls.:surprise2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,954 Posts
Pa-Plinker, we pour some RV anti- freeze in the traps and toilet tank and bowl to keep it from freezing in case the power goes off and we loose the heat. which we set on low.
Yea, that's what I do (but I use the cheaper regular windshield washer anti-freeze), but TRAPJAW didn't address how they handle those issues ... that's why I asked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,029 Posts
Our camp is in Potter county and isn't used as often during the winter months. Typically, the water is drained late October/early November and not turned on again until Spring time. I want to configure drains and a system to make it easy to winterize so the water can be used during winter visits (especially hunting trips). It's a mobile home, so only HW tank, 1 bathroom and the kitchen sink needs addressed. Do you guys use air to purge or simply low-point drains?
Our camp is in Potter as well. We built the water system with the idea of easy winterization. We are lucky to have a basement (6' high) so our hot water tank and 2 filtration tanks and the pressure tank is down there. What I did was ran a dedicated Pex line and valve to each cold water spigot (kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower, hot water tank, and toilet) off a manifold, which also goes to a low drain. I did the same (dedicated line) with the hot water. From about mid October to the end of gun season, we shut off the water coming into camp, then open all those valves and spigots and let the water drain into a bucket, RV antifreeze in the traps and toilet. We will do this in the spring from the opening till we get into mid May when we go for trout and turkey. When we shut it down in December, we do the same, as well as blow the lines out, blow the hot water tank out, and the filter tanks, suck the water out of the back of the toilet and the toilet trap, then fill all traps with RV antifreeze with some in the back toilet tank.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top