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Ok, so I've finally got everything set up on my bench and I got my powder dispenser set to throw consistent charges just a hair less than 49 grs (so I can trickle in the rest).

Last night I had a few minutes so I thought I'd go ahead and re-size and de-primer the box of brass I have laying around. I'd already adjusted the die (or so I thought) so I took a case, used some of the spray lubricant I had and coated it and then ran it through the press. It seemed like it went ok but I also had a case lube pad and some lubricant for it that I wanted to try so I applied some lube to the pad, rolled the case in it and ran it through the press. This one went fairly easily as well. I grabbed a 3rd case, used the lube pad and when I ran it through the press it nearly got stuck! In fact, when I was trying to lower the case it ripped the depriming pin loose from the locking "bolt" that holds it in place! Apparently I didn't have that locked down tight enough.

I thought I'd ruined the pin but after disassembling the die, I think it will be ok. I re-assembled the die (the depriming pin and re-sizing part of it were still stuck in the case), and cranked down the locking bolt that holds the pin in place and was able to remove it from the case.

After removing the case I looked at it and there was a pair of dents in the shoulder of the case. Upon looking at the other 2 cases I ran through, there were small dents in both of them as well. I'm pretty sure these 3 pieces of brass are junk now. Correct?

I was frustrated at this point so I gave up for the night and figured I'd get on here to see what I did wrong. Obviously I need to re-configure the die per the instructions, especially since I ripped it apart and just threw it back together enough to pull the case off the de-priming pin.

I did a little reading and it sounds like I had too much lubricant on the case? Does that sound right? Do I need to clean the inside of the die now before trying again? Should I clean it with something like rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner now?

Anything else? I'm completely new to this so I'm not sure what's causing the dents.

Thanks for the help guys!
 

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Too much lube will dent the cases, I've done it in the past. I would clean the die before using it again. If you are using a spray lube, there is not need to lube with anything else. I now only use Hornady's One Shot spray lube for all of my resizing. It's easy to use and doesn't make a mess. Just make sure you spray them outside. Wish I would have started using it earlier. You just clean your resizing die, spray lube in it then spray your cases and your good to go. I even use it to form 338 Federal brass from 308 and no effort is needed.

If the dents are not real bad, they can be used and will disappear when you fire the round. I would not use them for real hot loads because, technically, they are decreasing the case capacity and may cause excessive pressure (just and assumption). I would not use them for target or hunting rounds but I've used several "dented" cases in plinking rounds for my AR15

From the sound of it, I assume you are using Lee dies since you said you you pulled decapping pin from the "locking bolt." I used white mica for a while when forming brass and it would build up in the die and I would do the same thing no matter how tight I made the bolt on my Lee dies. I would have to take them apart and clean them.
 

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Too much lube will dent the cas,e more than likely the cause and also clean out you die with some rubbing alcohol, you may have a build-up of case lube in there that's causing the problem..back-out the de-priming pin and really clean the die..there will be alot of dirt in there if you've used it for years..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's a brand new Hornady die set and the only build up is from those 3 cases. It's never been used before as I've never tried re-loading before.
 

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Still too much lube then, you rookies always make that mistake...ever so lighty, whipe it off gently and there will still be enough..
 

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As mentioned, too much lube. I spray my rifle brass in a tupperware, 40-60 pieces, 2 pumps then I shake them all around. After about 1-2 minutes it starts to evaporate and I start re-sizing. It only takes a little, because you leave a little behind in the die each time too. Make sure you clean out the dies when you finish, so it doesn't build up.
 

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I bought a RCBS pad and tube of lube in the mid-1970's...I'm still using the same pad and same tube of llube 35 years later and 10'000's of reloaded shells..a tube may last a life time, just close the top when your done and light roll the case over the pad...35 years is a long time but lube will last apparently at least that long, and how many shells have I had stick in a full length sizing die in all that time..NONE..end of story..
 

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Does anyone else use a graphite pencil around the inside of the necks?
 

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HighCountry66 said:
Does anyone else use a graphite pencil around the inside of the necks?
I use an old 35mm film container 3/4 filled with #8 shot and graphite.. Stick the neck in, give it twist or two and it deposits just enough without over doing it. I'll give the container a shake now and then to recoat the shot.

Bill.
 

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WildBill said:
I use an old 35mm film container 3/4 filled with #8 shot and graphite.. Stick the neck in, give it twist or two and it deposits just enough without over doing it. I'll give the container a shake now and then to recoat the shot.

Bill.
When I was having some problems sizing 30-06, Winchester Bob mentioned your 8-shot solution.

I bought the commercial version of ceramic balls with an additive lubricant, but haven't used it yet.
 

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You don't want lube on the shoulder of the case (the tapered part). You lube the neck and body only, when full length sizing. When neck sizing, only the neck.
 

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My FL resizing method is very simple. Couple passes with a case neck brush inside the neck to loosen carbon. Dip into powdered graphite-coated steel balls and a wee bit of Imperial lube on the bottom third of the case body....no need to lube the rest of the case body or exterior of neck...I rub a VERY small amount of Imperial into my index and third finger about every five cases. I've been using the same container of Imperial for many, many years-that's how little is needed....

Neck sizing only requires the graphite lubing of the neck interior described above....

I wipe the case body off with a solvent-impregnated patch....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I didn't get a chance to try again last night, too much going on as usual.

Sounds like the general consensus is that I used too much lube, so I'll try way less and clean up the die first.

As far as the neck is concerned, should I run the neck brush through it a few times? I'm guessing this would be a "solvent free" brushing?
 

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I give necks two swipes each with a stiff bristled brush, before resizing (and after "tumbling" cases), tap them neck-down on the bench, then resize.

Used a lube pad for many years, before switching to One Shot spray lube. I ain't never using a pad again.



My "technique" is to finger a wee dab of Pacific lube inside the case mouth about every fifth case, when resizing. That little tub of Pacific lube has been around here for over 30 years. Also use it to finger lube a few cases, if I'm working up some new loads and only dealing with 5 or 10 cases.

Don't sweat minor lube dents. One firing and they'll be gone.
 

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HighCountry66 said:
Does anyone else use a graphite pencil around the inside of the necks?
I don't use a pencil. Instead I do use powder graphite I get from a local locksmith.
I apply it with a q-tip.
It has made the cases slip smoother over the expander button.
The pencil idea seems like less work , maybe I'll try that.
 

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WildBill said:
HighCountry66 said:
Does anyone else use a graphite pencil around the inside of the necks?
I use an old 35mm film container 3/4 filled with #8 shot and graphite.. Stick the neck in, give it twist or two and it deposits just enough without over doing it. I'll give the container a shake now and then to recoat the shot.

Bill.
Theres an idea to.
 

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hunterx said:
WildBill said:
HighCountry66 said:
Does anyone else use a graphite pencil around the inside of the necks?
I use an old 35mm film container 3/4 filled with #8 shot and graphite.. Stick the neck in, give it twist or two and it deposits just enough without over doing it. I'll give the container a shake now and then to recoat the shot.

Bill.
Theres an idea to.
Actually, that's an "old" technique, I should know!


In days gone by "motor mica" was a favorite. Somewhere around this place is a red plastic container with three nylon brushes mounted upright. The idea, shake the container to coat the brushes with mica,remove the top then push the necks over the brush. It killed two stones with one bird(
), cleaned and lubricated the necks in one pass.

But, if you "need" the slip and slide stuff to make sizing easier its a good indication the brass may need annealed. The slippy stuff is or may be fixing a problem instead of eliminating it. Just a thought.

While we're on the subject, how many clean their dies (inside) after each and every use?

Bill
 

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Has to work better than my Q-tip/powder graphite method.
Messy and slow as that powder seems to get everywhere and stains so easy
 
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