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Discussion Starter #1
I notice lately that the water coming out of the shower or spigot, tends to speed up and slow down rather than just run continuously at a steady rate. It seems like my pump is kicking on more often. I checked the pressure on the bladder tank, and it is at 25 pounds, which I assume is adequate. There are no leaks that I know of and the pump doesn't just kick on for no reason (such as a leak might cause) Is there anything else I should be looking at? What other things may fail or wear out that would effect water pressure in the lines?
 

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Did you check the pressure in the bladder tank without any water pressure in the line. Usually the bladder pressure is two pounds + or - a pound or so below the kick-on pressure setting for your pump. Turn off your pump, drain the tank , then check the bladder pressure.
 

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How do you know what you tank should be? I believe I have a system like Danesdad. I don't have a jet pump. I have one of the old above ground pumps in my basement. I can guarantee my pump will start to run if I take a shower. Any way to increase the pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I'm not sure what the pressure should be, but I checked bladder pressure with the system charged. I believe the actual pump is in the well pipe. Can I look at the pressure switch and tell what it should be?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
timberdoodle said:
waterlogged pressure tank??
I replaced that bladder tank about six or seven years ago. How long do they last? It seems to maintain pressure but maybe that was the pump that was doing that.
 

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Might say inside the switch cover, guessing you don't have a gauge in the line? Charge pressure should be on the tank,
 

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with all the pressure off your tank ( all water drained) with an air gauge, you should read the pressure your upper limit is set for. In your case it should read 40psi. Is your pump kicking on when there is no water being used? Mine does that, and further investigation shows I have a slow leakdown in the feed,. Our guess is the check valve at the pump is weak or leaky. If you have a small compressor, put sir in the valve on the tank up to 40psi, then monitor it for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I should be able to turn the power off to the well and just run water somewhere until the pressure goes down, correct? Then gauge the tank pressure?
 

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Couple things that are easy to check..... First, let the water run and watch your guage while the pump cycles. Most pressure switches should turn on at 20 and off at 40. Your pressure switch should also be adjustable but be careful if you try it yourself and remember that most submersibles are 220 and the electric contacts are close to the adjustment nut. Second is the tank. There should be an air valve just like on a car tire. Use a tire guage to check the pressure.

If those two things don't show the problem, My neighbor, Ray Saxton, services wells and pumps and is as honest and fair as anyone could hope for. He's right in Tionesta.

If ypu're not in a big hurry, I have a reason to be down your road next weekend or next week sometime and would be glad to stop and take a look. I've done my share of fiddling with em over the years and might be able to help with the simple stuff.
 

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Turn off the power discharge the water use the faucet, shower, spigot ect turn off water to hot water tank don't want to siphon off (just in case). Check the pressure in the tank, the way the pump is cycling it seems the tank is the answer since the water is surging when running if it was the check valve it would do so when the water was off same if you had a leak. I guess you have a submersible by the way you were talking most of the time they have built in pressure switches. I found this answer for you..your tank is the only reason a pump will short cycle...if it is a air bladder tank then it should have three pounds less air than the kick on pressure of the pump....if pump kick on at 30 psi then tank should have 27 psi air in it with no water in tank...to check this turn pump off and open faucet or valve somewhere and let water drain...leave valve or faucet open....check air pressure...if air pressure is low add air until air pressure is 3 psi below kick on pressure...you will have to keep adding air until all water is pushed out of tank....if you still have the short cycling problem after you are sure the tank you have is good and air pressure is correct you will either need a bigger tank or you will have to add another tank
 

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I had the same issue last year.Did every thing gentleben and others suggest. My problem was the 1/4" pipe that holds the pressure switch had alot of rust and junk in it that cause my switch to turn on and off to early, Clean the junk out under the switch replace the 1/4" pipe. Runs perfect.
 

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hunter-2 said:
I had the same issue last year.Did every thing gentleben and others suggest. My problem was the 1/4" pipe that holds the pressure switch had alot of rust and junk in it that cause my switch to turn on and off to early, Clean the junk out under the switch replace the 1/4" pipe. Runs perfect.
Hunter is correct that the diaphram under the switch can get corroded or even have a pin hole in it. But for $20.00 or so you can replaced the complete presure switch with a new one,
 

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Discussion Starter #18
btbowhunter56 said:
Couple things that are easy to check..... First, let the water run and watch your guage while the pump cycles. Most pressure switches should turn on at 20 and off at 40. Your pressure switch should also be adjustable but be careful if you try it yourself and remember that most submersibles are 220 and the electric contacts are close to the adjustment nut. Second is the tank. There should be an air valve just like on a car tire. Use a tire guage to check the pressure.

If those two things don't show the problem, My neighbor, Ray Saxton, services wells and pumps and is as honest and fair as anyone could hope for. He's right in Tionesta.

If ypu're not in a big hurry, I have a reason to be down your road next weekend or next week sometime and would be glad to stop and take a look. I've done my share of fiddling with em over the years and might be able to help with the simple stuff.
That'd be great except this is at my house in Greensburg not at camp. The one at camp works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Short cycling seems to be what is happening. The pump kicks on for five seconds or so at around 30 pounds and after five seconds, it hits fifty and quits. But when my wife was taking a shower, ten seconds or so after it hit fifty, it would be back at 30 and kick on again. It seems like the bladder tank isn't doing anything and we're running off of the pump alone.

If I get a chance tonight, I'm gonna turn off the pump and gauge the pressure in the tank.

I don't think I need an additional tank, this one worked well up to about two weeks ago.

It doesn't seem to come on when there is no water being used (tho I didn't watch it for long) so, I'm guessing there is no leak.
 

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I've had this happen several times and replacing the pressure switch has solved it. While it could be other things, I'd do that first...cheap and easy and you might get lucky before digging deeper.
 
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