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Discussion Starter #1
Would appreciate some input. Any places in Central Pa that do them? I don’t hear many good things about the rubberized coatings. What about used oil? Thanks for the feedback.
 

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I've had my truck for 20 years, no undercoating or oil. Just make sure you rinse it good underneath if the weather warms up during the winter and then again in the spring. I've had some break lines rust out and started to get some bubbling around the fenders, which I had fixed. Don't know if undercoating or oil helps, have heard mixed reviews. Here she is.:smile2:
 

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I get all my trucks and cars undercoated at Elliott's Undercar in Butler. It's not the rubber stuff and not the oil, more like a thick sticky grease. What he uses and the way he does it works great. Been doing me stuff years with good results. Had him do several used trucks also.
 

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I have noticed a lot of the newer trucks are rusting over the rear wheels... I was told one of the three manufacturers are using a chemical on the frames that inhibits rust sprayed on during the manufacturing process... A lot of body shops are not fixing rust anymore because very little profit most are doing insurance repair which has higher profits...
 

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I have used chassy paint it will not rust and it stops rust one thing about it is it will not come off so wear gloves and put cardboard on the floor it will not come off period
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the responses. I have found a couple places semi-locally. One uses a New Hampshire Oil Undercoat and the other uses Berkebile Oil. I’ll probably use one of them and see how it works out.
 

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I’ve heard good things on fluid film.
Been using it for years after a chemical engineer and hopelessly crazed car nut turned me onto it.
I detail my vehicles top to bottom two times a year, in the spring after winter and in the fall before. Spring cleaning my truck involves pressure washing everything I can see and reach underneath, the frame, floors, suspension, back side of the rear chromed bumper, wheel wells, skid plates and etc. I even drop the spare tire carrier so I can clean it, it's carrier and the bottom of the bed. After Fluid Film applied on everything since the pressure washer/detergent removed most of if not all of the previous coating along with the road crud.

FF doesn't dry as such, it remains kinda gooey, collects road grim but most importantly it provides a barrier between all parts and the nasty road stuff. Oh, and it doesn't need to be applied an inch thick, a light coating will do. Last June when I had my truck inspected checking things out ..."Dang, this thing looks like brand new up here!":)
 

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How many cans does it take to do an entire truck?
I don't know how many spray cans, I buy it by the gallon and spray it on which is enough to do our two medium sized vehicles with bit left over. As I said, it doesn't have to be put on drip'm wet just enough to see whatever is covered.


Bill
 

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another bump for fluid film
it takes 2 cans to do my 2dr wrangler including inside the frame rails
I spray everything except for the engine/tranny and the diffs
I usually coat it 2 times a year as its more of a protectant then a sealer
in fall to combat the road salt and in spring to make it easier to wash mud off
 

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One more for Fluid Film. My wife's 2015 Wrangler and my 2016 F150 look brand new underneath. Not even a hint of rust even on small parts. I used 4 cans on the Wrangler (4-door), and 5 on the Ford. Light coating on all exposed surfaces and shot some into the frame with an extension they sell with Fluid Film.
 

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I can say stay away from Krown. Had three trucks done last Fall. Two of which were brand new, all three now have rust on the undercarriage. Cost was 160.00 each. Total waste...
 

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What kind of sprayer do you use to apply the FF?Is it a paint gun with a compressor?
I originally used hodgepodged touch up pressure gun and rattle cans but now a Kellsport Pro. There are other less expensive ones but the Pro kit came with all the accessories.
Oh BTW, this is my '05 85K lives outside 24-7-365 struggle buggy after it's top to bottom made ready for winter battle....:)
Bill
 

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I originally used hodgepodged touch up pressure gun and rattle cans but now a Kellsport Pro. There are other less expensive ones but the Pro kit came with all the accessories.
This is my setup. It’s worth the investment to get the gun made for it and buy it by the gallon. Costs are easily recouped in a year or two versus taking it somewhere to get sprayed.

Mine works like a charm at about 60 PSI.
 

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I am looking it this myself a lot of people are getting away from fluid film because it washes off easily
some have gone to a product called rustavert
RustAvert
I am going to use this product myself
 

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a lot of people are getting away from fluid film because it washes off easily
Don't know why unless it was applied over built up dirt, oil and grease or they're running their vehicles over a chassis wash which would be iffy, it requires a good grease cutting detergent such as Super Clean or Simple Green Pro to remove it. They claim it will last 36 months but I would imagine it also depends where its applied, on a frame or inside a door.



Bill
 
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