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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Pa Pellet 50 cal. . That I have had for 2 years and I have used power belts , Maxie hunters , and sabots in it . All have work out nice but I would like to use round balls in it . Any advice would be great on patch size , balls, and a go powder load to start with . I use 3f in the pan and 2f down the barrel now . I love working up loads with this just a starting point in needed . I will not be starting right away . It will be a in between season thing .

Thanks
 

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Since you are not in a hurry that should help you out.

The smartest thing to do is to get several different patch thicknesses. Either go to a shoot where there are a bunch of shooters and borrow just a few-or maybe you can have some frinds give you some different thickness patches.

I would start with a .490 roundball.

I use 3F down the tube and 7F in the pan. I get good-fast-constant ignition with this combo. 70 grains is a great starter load. And normally close to the most accurate load in most 50 calibers.

A lot of hunters and shooters will "spit patch" their patch. I am a hunter so I do not use a spit patch. I use TC Bore Butter for a patch lubricant. I can leave a load in the rifle for a few days with the TC lube, I would not do that with a spit patch. Tom.
 

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.490 is right ball size to start with. I usually mic the barrel and get Lyman round ball mound custom made (not a lot of $$$).

Like hogshead said try different patch thickness. Patch should be 100% cotton (no nylon, it melts).

Start with .010 and go thivker till patching is tight but do able.

I use Crisco on my patches. I first wet them in gun oil, then use my fingeres to masage the crisco into the mesh. I put them in a plastic sandwich bag to keep them soft and clean, taking one out as needed. I fire my rifle at the end of the day and clean it. then use fresh BP the next time out. I love the round ball and have killed 13 deer with it in PA. mine is a 45 cal.

The patched ball is the most accurate projectile. But you must use 100% pure lead so the patch takes the grip on the lead. bullet casting lead is no good.
 

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I agree on the .490 RB and 70 gr for a starter, As for patches, Prelubed work well and if I'm just plinkin' I use blue tickin' spit patch and run a wet patch down between shots. For hunting bore butter makes a good off the shelf lube for patches. I have a couple of 50's one likes .15 patches the other seems to like .18 better. As we all know, every muzzy has it own likes and dislikes, Grab an assortment of goodies and have some fun.
 

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My guess is it will settle in at 80grs of FFg,a .490 RB,and either .015 or .018 patch.
 

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I have a Lyman Deerstalker that really likes .490rb, 80gr FFg, and blue ticking lubed with bore butter. I put ball after ball in the same hole at 50yds
 

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Use Crisco as a lube. It's cheap, readity availabe, keeps the burned residue soft shot after shot. Use the thinest patch you can find to start with and work up (if you have to) from there. 80 - 85 gr GOEX.
 

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I agree with all the above, but I like Goex FFF in the pipe, 80 grs worth thats what my TC's like. Thats half the fun finding the load that works
 

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I could be mistaken on this but I think to use roundballs you need a compatible rate of twist in the rifling. Not familiar with what your gun has. Believe I read where roundballs work best with a 1:48 to 1:66 rifling twist. If questionable, contact the manufacturer's customer service. They are probably the most knowledgeable.
 

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bowbenderpa01 said:
Believe I read where roundballs work best with a 1:48 to 1:66 rifling twist.
A twist of 1:48 works OK, but do not count on it being very accurate once you start getting past 50yards or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Orvis said:
bowbenderpa01 said:
Believe I read where roundballs work best with a 1:48 to 1:66 rifling twist.
A twist of 1:48 works OK, but do not count on it being very accurate once you start getting past 50yards or so.
Orvis You are right from what I was told by Traditions but most of the shots I have had has been around 45 to 50 yards so I should be ok . Thank again for the help .
 

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If your going to use Crisco, make sure you use the Crisco oil, not the shortening. You can also use a bit of Balistol or Canola.

Bowbender is right on the barrel twist. The 1-66 twist or a 1-70 twist (a Green Mt. twist) is for round ball or even the Hornady Pa. Conical projectile. If your barrel is the faster 1-28 twist, you may have a tough time getting roundballs to fly well.

I have a 1-70 Green Mountain on my T\C Hawken. It's a very accurate gun\barrel. I use 90gr. of Goex FF with a bore button in between the powder and a Hornady 240gr. Conical. This is easy to shove down the bore, even after a few shots and really has some ft\lbs out to 100 yards.

Dave
 

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I'd start with a .490 RB and 15-thousand pillow ticking patch with boar butter. But then, I like boar butter.

Start with 70gr. FF and go up from there. Swab your bore in between each shot with an alcohol patch (you know....the kind that are used before you are given an injection....pick up a box at the pharmacy...they are cheap). Alcohol patches are great to clean off your frizzen and pan if you shot while hunting. Nothing will attract moisture faster than powder residue. Alcohol patches will remove powder residue and evaporate instantly.

Yeah....no more "click"....aww...man!!!

Dave
 

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1:48 twist works great with round ball. My brothers cva hawken with a .018 pillow tick patch and 90gr RS holds 2" groups @ 100. Its hard to ask for much more than that.
 

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frontier gander said:
1:48 twist works great with round ball. My brothers cva hawken with a .018 pillow tick patch and 90gr RS holds 2" groups @ 100. Its hard to ask for much more than that.
That's where you should end up. And with a happy face!! Post your results. Pic's would be good. Yappin about how good your groups are without pics.....well, BORING!!!




Dave
 

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For using balls in a fast twist use as close to bore size as possible and as thin a patch as you can. A bore button may help as well. I have an RMC 1/28 twist 24" barrel that shoots outstanding (about 2")at 80 yards with roundballs and 80 grains of Goex 2f but the 28" long barrel won't group them well at all. It probably would with lower charge levels but I haven't tested that barrel with balls much yet; it stays sighted in for 300 grain .452 xtp's over 100 grains of Goex 3f. One of the best ball shoooters I ever had was a mid 70's TC Hawkens that would do under 2" at 100 yards with 90 grains of Goex 2f. That barrel was 1/48 twist and 28" long. I never tried anything else out of it because at the time roundballs were required. I wish I still had it.

For barrels with deeper grooves and slower twist use the thickest patch you can and as snug a load as loads acceptably. My TC PA Hunters 1/66 twist barrels shoot .495 ball and .020 patch under 2" at 100 under no wind. Goex 2f up to 110 grains show little difference in group size.

Shallow grooves and faster twist use the biggest diameter ball you can and thinner patch; may have to protect the patch with a bore button. Charge levels and velocity need to be lower and slower for good accuracy. A 1/48 TC twist with proper ball/patch combo should take up to 90 grains with a little load work though. Take a look at the White Rifles website about fast twist and balls.

I just picked up a new GM drop-in 1/28 twist 28" long barrel to use as a switch barrel in my TC PA hunter stock. I intend to sight it in for 200 grain xtp's; hopefully get the 270 grain ball-ets to group from it as well. I have some plastic patches from Hornady to try out for roundballs as well. Maybe I might even post some pic's of groups it will do. Initial tests goes on a 50 yards then final zero for 100.
 

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Orvis said:
bowbenderpa01 said:
Believe I read where roundballs work best with a 1:48 to 1:66 rifling twist.
A twist of 1:48 works OK, but do not count on it being very accurate once you start getting past 50yards or so.
My Lyman trade rifle has 1:48 twist, and is very accurate past 50 yards with a patched roundball.
 
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