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So I'm a night owl and frequently stay up until 12 or 1 in the morning about every night. My wife has always been the same way so before we had kids, me building stuff in my workshop was never an issue at night. Now with a 2 year old and a new one arriving any day now, my time to build stuff is pretty limited. Somehow I have convinced my wife to let me build a 24'x40' detached 3 car on our property so I can head out there at night and . We're going to go with a metal pole building construction. This will let me move my wood working equipment out of the basement, my metal shop equipment out of the garage, and let me do blacksmithing indoors.

Right now when I forge its outside so its fairly loud. We have acreage but our property is more long than wide. Where I will building the garage its about 75' from my house and about 100' from my neighbors house. My current neighbors are very cool but they're putting their house up for sale over the summer. My goal is to be able run a table saw, angle grinder, or use my anvil at anytime of the night and not have to worry about waking anyone up.

I've been looking up soundproofing insulation up but I have zero construction knowledge. Does anyone here have any experience with trying to sound proof a shop? So far from what I've read, that ROXUL sound n safe insulation has good reviews.

My plan was to insulate the shop and then cover the walls with OSB and paint. The ceiling would be the same way but the building I'm building will have attic trusses for storage space so I wont be able to insulate the entirety of the ceiling.

Any advice or a direction to go in would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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In my business we use sound control sometimes such as control rooms for auditoriums and a crying rooms in a church for example.
Architects will specify a certain STC ( Sound Transmission Class) rating.
For those applications noted above anything over 46 would be considered good.
So now, you need to find out what the STC rating is for the materials you think you want to use to deaden the sound in your new metal building.
Below is a link that will help you find those values.
Good luck,




http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/acoustical-assemblies-en-SA200.pdf
 

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As part of my former profession I had the final responsibility for the construction of secure facilities. Part of the requirements package was for the facility to achieve an STC (Sound Transmission Classification) of a certain decibel (DB) number. The techniques used to achieve that number as part of the certification for the facility are not mysterious by any means and are well defined in the commercial arena and you have been given an excellent pointer to them in another post. However, and you may be thinking about this, keep in mind that with achieving the STC rating you want that you are talking about a black smith shop and so paying attention to fire hazards as well as heat ventilation and fresh air should be in mind as well. You could, in theory, put some sort of sound baffles, or soundsoak material above the rafters and depending on the design still have room for storage. Sorry to get long winded on this, but the construction process and the security requirements for secure facilities is something I always enjoyed and is one of the very few things I miss about my former job.
Hey, not to make you worry but to really try and help you, sound is sometimes like a water in that it leaks from places we do not expect. You should have professional help on this and they will do testing along the construction way to make sure the sound mitigation is cost effective and actually does achieve the goal.
 

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When I worked for a tech school the whole building was a metal framed sheet metal clad building. Some of the shops had compartmentalized rooms for the real noisy activities . You may want to consider doing this and insulate the rooms. . Woodworking and metal forging/grinding/welding do not mix!
 

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Years ago the contractor I worked for did "sound proof" walls for the bathrooms. Basically the walls were a staggered stud design so that the wall covering for the rooms on either side were on its own studs. Insulation was fiberglass.
 

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Foam insulation of open cell design is the only foam that will work. closed cell foam will transfer the sound much like a piece of glass. Your typical blue foam used in construction will not do the job.
Loaded vinyl sheets can be used in construction. This material is about 3/16 thick and weighs about 1# per square foot. In my old building I did 5 1/2" walls. I put the loaded vinyl on the exterior under the siding. Used 5 1/2" fiberglass insulation with 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on interior.
Drywall will do a better job of capturing sound than OSB which could create a drumming effect. Windows will drum sound to the exterior unless designed for noise reduction. These windows have 2 or more panes of glass that are not parallel to each other. Insulation of the ceiling is vitally important or sound will escape from there.
 
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