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Awesome. That is what I was thinking and why I asked about your poi at farther distances.
 

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Glad to hear Your getting dialed in. This was the first year I switched arrows on this bow, and spent some time paper and bare shaft tuning. I remember my rest had to be moved in quite a bit.

Really amazing to see a big 2 blade Fixed stack with field points at 40 yards. I’ve been running Mechs, but that may change!
 

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Paper tuning is just the beginning.
 

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A well tuned bow will shoot fixed blade broadhead, feild points, and bare shafts to the same poi at 20 yds. Past that the bare shafts get squirrelly but the broadheads and feild points should still group together. Your broadhead "bites" more air, causing steerage, move your rest with that in mind. TINY changes to your rest, and fix vertical and horizontal issues seperatly, one at a time. If rest adjustments won't correct things, yoke tuning will. Don't give up till you get it right, moving your sight I just a band aid for an out of tune bow.

One other thing to check that will drive you crazy is fetching contact. A light dusting of powder should show it. It usually won't affect feild points much but will cause broadheads to group differently.

One other thing I do is shoot my white fletched and crested arrows at a black target. If they're kicking or wobbling even slightly I can see it. I shoot to 70 yds regularly, broadheads and feildpoint into the same group. Always shoot the broadhead first, saves your fletchings.
 

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Tune tune tune, alot of time involved here to get your bow shooting its best. Here is another good tip I use when tuning a bow. I place a rubber band on the outside of the riser and slide an arrow bare shaft works best, thru the end loops of the rubber band, make certain the arrow is tight against the riser just above the shelf on a flat surface, berger holes a good place. Then nock an arrow onto the bow sting with arrow set in place on the arrow rest and measure between both arrows see if you got the same gap from one end to the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I think part of my problem the other day was that I was probably torquing my bow a bit. Add in the fact that it was a very windy day and the mental aspect of shooting a broadhead instead of a field point was probably throwing my form off a bit. Went out last night and shot after making another minor adjustment. No wind and I felt much more relaxed. Had both field points and broadheads hitting inside the bullseye at 23 yards. Still have the BH about a inch left of the field point but pretty happy with it. I will say that any flaws in your form will be magnified much more so with broadheads compared to mechanicals and field points.
 

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I think part of my problem the other day was that I was probably torquing my bow a bit. Add in the fact that it was a very windy day and the mental aspect of shooting a broadhead instead of a field point was probably throwing my form off a bit. Went out last night and shot after making another minor adjustment. No wind and I felt much more relaxed. Had both field points and broadheads hitting inside the bullseye at 23 yards. Still have the BH about a inch left of the field point but pretty happy with it. I will say that any flaws in your form will be magnified much more so with broadheads compared to mechanicals and field points.
You are getting it. The way to think of it is that the broadheads (all broadheads behave differently) are showing you very slight tuning flaws that field points don't/can't. Use the walk back method described here by others and tune your broadheads just like you tuned your field points with the paper. You'll be there soon!!!
 

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If you haven't already - you should check out the Ranch Fairy on YouTube ... he has a lot about tuning broadheads and shooting "adult" arrows
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have watched the Ranch Fairy and to be honest I don’t have a bow shop around that has a endless supply of different arrows and broadheads. Also a shop owner or tech isn’t going to spend hours with me micro tuning free of charge.
Anyhow I am still not getting my broadheads and field points to hit in the same spot and it’s driving me crazy. There is a two or three inch gap between the two no matter which way I move my rest. Completely parallel on the vertical.
Not sure what else I can do unless someone has another suggestion.
If there is no other solution I may just move my rest or sight to compensate. I only need a inch or maybe a 1.5 inches to have the broadheads hitting dead center at 25 yards.
Would it really be that detrimental not having the broadheads and field points not hitting n the same spot when we’re only talking a inch or two difference ?
 

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If you can't get them to shoot together by moving your rest, you probably need to yoke tune. Probably getting some cam lean at full draw, have someone draw your bow while you watch your cams. If so, you string is "pushing" from one side and no amount of rest adjustment will correct it completely. Yoke tuning will fix that. Lots of videos on yoke tuning.

After I get my bow tuned perfectly, I can shoot bullet holes in paper with bare shafts. A perfectly tuned bow is far more forgiving of flaws in your shooting form, which is important on a hunting setup cus we are using broadheads and shooting from funky positions at times. Moving your sight is just a band aid.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I will have to look into yoke tuning. Sounds a little intimidating though.
just really frustrated because I am shooting better than ever and when I screw on a broadhead it hits a couple inches left. Been breaking golf tees at 25 yards with my field points. Anyhow moving my rest about 1/16 in puts me right in the center but then my field points are a couple inches right.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Really don’t want to have to go back to my archery shop. Already spent a small fortune this year and the wife is starting to get annoyed. Just really frustrated only needing a inch or two to be dialed in perfect.
 

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Sounds strange but sometimes moving the rest in the opposite direction works....Many years ago when I could not get my broad heads and field points to to hit the same spot I resorted to having two sights. One set for BD and the other field points, but I learned using the methods mentioned above I could fix the point of aim for the BD and field points to be uniform. It is import not to continue when your are tired or frustrated as it is best to put everything away and plan another session......you have plenty of time before fall....It will come together......
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Born2Hunt you are the man ! Thank you......thank you !
Went out a little while ago and did what you recommended. Start moving the rest the opposite direction and after 3 adjustments the broad head and field points were touching at a little over twenty yards. Adjusted my sight from there and now I am dead on with both. I can actually see the difference with the flight of my arrows now too. They are flying like darts.
A month or two ago I started a thread about changing the accessories on my bow and switching to fixed heads and I couldn’t be happier with how everything has worked out. Shooting better than ever. Also feels really good to tune my bow on my own and have it shooting so well. For years I have shied away from going to fixed heads because I always worried they would be too hard to tune. Now all I have left to do is keep practicing with the field points and then pick my three best arrows by shooting my broad heads a few weeks before the opener.
Thanks for all the responses guys.
Very much appreciated !
 

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For 4 decades I have been doing all my own archery work except making strings and cables. I am no pro, but I enjoy it and it has more than paid for the tools, presses, vises etc. I also cut/fletch all my arrows for my vertical bow. I know it is not for everyone, but it is not difficult just takes all of patience, following instructions and try on error. I must say I get a lot more satisfaction out of the hunting and taking game by playing a bigger role in the process. One suggestion I can offer is to start early during the summer to make any changes and tuning you may need, all too often things go wrong when we wait to the last minute to discover problems...at least for me. Also I would imagine the bow shops get busy and no-one want to miss that first planned day in the woods for something that could have been fixed weeks before....
 
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