The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The GPR barrel Lyman replaced under the recall has very sharp lands which are not just cutting patches, but flat blowing them out. The method I've used over the years has always worked, but I've discovered that some of the ways I learned to do things are not as good as some I read about on HPA.

What I do is a jewlers rouge stropping on an oily cleaning patch for 50 strokes each time I clean after a patch blowing shooting time untill it clears up. So far on this GPR barrel just shooting isn't making headway. Before I undertake this method like I had to on my Renegade years ago, I wanted to get the input of the muzzleloaders here. Best so far is four to six inch "groups" @ 50 yds.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,426 Posts
What patch thickness are you shooting? Lymans like .018-.020. I use 0000 steel wool,jag, and oil. Patches should look like they could be reused when you got the right thickness. Groups should be less than 11/2" at 50 yds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I started out with .015" Ox Yoke prelubed, but I wasn't getting the result I am looking for. Groups were sporadic, nothing I would call consistant. I tried the over the powder patch that often works, but not much improvement.

Went to the Craft Store and picked up .018 pillow ticking, washed out the sizing, and cut some 1 1/2" patches, then lubed them with olive oil. Actually saw some improvement, and much easier loading without swabing between shots. Two ranges I got respectable groups with an occational flier, then like someone thru a light switch, blown patches and four to six inch groups. Doesn't make any sense.

I have a theory the natural lube covered the sharp rifling with the seasoning build up it makes, and the Murphy's Oil Soap water bath along with the olive oil removed it. Groups had been getting decent, then went the other way. Even tried both .530, and .535 ball with the same result. Even tried a comparison shoot with one of my other flinters and that shot a five shot one ragged hole group((3/4").

I have xxxx steel wool on hand for polishing my frizzens, so your method is up next. Really hoping I manage to straighten it out before the after Xmas season. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the information. Heard good things about JB, just never tried it. That may be about to change!

No problem about the sideways image, I can't post ANYTHING, Elaine handles that for me, and hers come out laying on their side at least half the time too! It surely did as intended. Thanks again Rusty!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,426 Posts
Might try the .020 pillow next. Make sure when buying pillow it doesn't have any polyester in it.That melts and gums up rifling.Getting harder to find 100% cotton pillow.Ask for a tiny sample and take outside and light with lighter. See if it burns or melts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Didn't know that! Going to head out back and light up a patch or two just to check. It would make sense of the way the grouping fell apart so fast. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,647 Posts
Might try the .020 pillow next. Make sure when buying pillow it doesn't have any polyester in it.That melts and gums up rifling.Getting harder to find 100% cotton pillow.Ask for a tiny sample and take outside and light with lighter. See if it burns or melts.

Good catch 410=er.

Flintlock hunter I have never had this problem to this extent your experiencing. Have you tried backing off on your charge a little?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Good catch 410=er.

Flintlock hunter I have never had this problem to this extent your experiencing. Have you tried backing off on your charge a little?
Well, the pillow ticking went up so fast I could easily use it for tinder in the fireplace, but without question a real possibilty which needed to be addressed.

As for the charge wts, I've tried 5 gr increments from 65gr all the way to 90 gr in both FFFG and FFG once this problem surfaced. 80-90 gr FFFG was giving the best results up to the time it started destroying the patches. I've recovered most of the fired patches, and they are all blown out since the problem surfaced. It is perplexing. I had two T/C's that needed smoothing, one settled in after some shooting, and the other was nettlesome, and the reason I was taught about jewlers' rouge polishing, but the polishing takes some time so you don't overdo it.

Wish I could do the polishing today, but I'll be tied up all afternoon. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,426 Posts
50 yard 3 shots and my recipe.If you want the Moose Milk recipe let me know and Ill post it.

101_1321[1] by t410er, on Flickr
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,871 Posts
...No problem about the sideways image, I can't post ANYTHING, Elaine handles that for me, and hers come out laying on their side at least half the time too!

This site doesn't like portrait orientation. Many times you can use photo editor to change the orientation to landscape and then the pics will post correctly.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
50 yard 3 shots and my recipe.If you want the Moose Milk recipe let me know and Ill post it.

101_1321[1] by t410er, on Flickr

That is the kind of grouping I'm trying to get this flinter to print, and I would love to have the "moose milk' recipe so I can give it a try too. Does the moose milk need to be liquid or let it dry? Never used it before but it looks very interesting. Thankk you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,426 Posts
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%0) - 4 tablespoons
Caster Oil - 1 1/2 tablespoon
Murphys Oil Soap - 1 1/2 teaspoon
Witch Hazel - 2 tablespoon
Water (non-chlorinated) - 1/2 cup

Put in large jar and shake well.Add your washed and dried pillow.Remove and lay flat to dry.(cookie sheet) After dry shake liquid again and add pillow for 2nd dip.Dry flat again.Drying flat allows oils to spread uniformly on pillow.You can do a 3rd dip but 2 is usually enough.
I substitute the caster oil with Bear Oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Very interesting concoction! I have every intention of picking up the ingrediants I don' presently have on hand,(castor oil) and giving it a go! Thank you again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,754 Posts
Question on these patch and bullet lubes, do any of them ruin the powder charge if they are in contact long enough?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Question on these patch and bullet lubes, do any of them ruin the powder charge if they are in contact long enough?

That seems like a valid question, but one I figure the author might give warning about? 410er's moosemilk is dried before use, so it shouldn't be a problem loaded all season. Wonder Lube and Natural Lube I know from experience are fine over time. Same thing with olive oil, not enough on a patch to contaminate a charge to begin with. Natural Lube has been mentioned to build up in the bore and have an undesirable effect on accuracy untill it's scrubbed out, but that's all I've really heard about.

Something worth looking into before using a lube in a hunting load, if anyone on the site has had a problem such as this with any patch lube I hope they speak up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,426 Posts
I did not come up with the recipe but another guy on a muzzy forum about 10-15 years ago.Have been using it ever since.Gun stays loaded sometimes all season and accuracy is just as good as 1st loaded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Picked up the 91% and castor oil today, making things up to give it a try once the rain lets up.

One of the best things I've learned on HPA have been the lessons from the other members on here. Guess an OLD DOG can learn at least a little! Thank you!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top