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Discussion Starter #1
I have never owned a muzzle loader but someone is offering to give me a TC .50cal Renegade. The problem is that the barrel has internal rust/corrosion. When a .50 cal maxi is loaded, it goes down the barrel snugly but when it gets to the ignition chamber it seems loose. So I'm not sure if the rust/corrosion has eroded the steel in the chamber and not sure about using it. Is this okay.Does TC sell replacement barrels. Thanks
 

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Renegade: Barrel: 26” octagonal, 1:38 (50), 1:48 (50 & 54), 1: 66 (50 deep button rifling), smoothbore (56), Trigger: double set, Caliber: 50, 54 & 56, Stock: American Walnut,

Status: discontinued, Ignition: flintlock & percussion,

You might find one on ebay. May be cheaper to buy a new gun or tear that one apart and really work on the barrel.
 

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You would need to have the barrel checked.

If it was shot with the ball not completely seated on the charge, the barrell could be bulged out.

How loose is the ball?

My .54 renegade seems tighter around the mounting tab then gets easier but not loose.
 

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I had a .50 cal Renegade caplock named Mabel. She had nearly 30 brass tacks in her stock, one for each deer she harvested. When I gifted her to my son in Tennessee she was wearing her third barrel, a Green Mountain SS 1:28 twist tack driving wonder.

I believe Cabelas may still sell them. Stainless virtually eliminates the rusting, (you still need to clean right away), and Green Mountain manufactured very good, dependable, accurate barrels. Direct drop in, too.
 

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I had a .50 cal Renegade caplock named Mabel. She had nearly 30 brass tacks in her stock, one for each deer she harvested. When I gifted her to my son in Tennessee she was wearing her third barrel, a Green Mountain SS 1:28 twist tack driving wonder.

I believe Cabelas may still sell them. Stainless virtually eliminates the rusting, (you still need to clean right away), and Green Mountain manufactured very good, dependable, accurate barrels. Direct drop in, too.

TOW has em.


https://www.trackofthewolf.com/pdfs/catalog/page_205.pdf
 

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As said sounds like a bulged barrel. Definitely get checked before shooting.
 

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Some GM “drop-in” barrels plus “drop-in” locks will require extensive inletting etc to get optimally tuned. I got a GM “drop-in” and ended up taking gun to gunmaker Brad Emig. Worked out fine but a new gun may of been cheaper. Something to consider.
 

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Some GM “drop-in” barrels plus “drop-in” locks will require extensive inletting etc to get optimally tuned. I got a GM “drop-in” and ended up taking gun to gunmaker Brad Emig. Worked out fine but a new gun may of been cheaper. Something to consider.
Sorry to hear that Loggy. My GM was a perfect drop-in, just lulled the pin, replaced the barrel, put the pin back in and good ever since.
 

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Sorry to hear that Loggy. My GM was a perfect drop-in, just lulled the pin, replaced the barrel, put the pin back in and good ever since.
I see your gun was a caplock. Mebbie a lil different vs a TC flintlock?? My gun was the TC PA Hunter flintlock.
 

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I see your gun was a caplock. Mebbie a lil different vs a TC flintlock?? My gun was the TC PA Hunter flintlock.
I can understand a flintlock being a bit more picky on inletting in the key areas, and considering my T/C Renegade was a caplock, the differences could very possibly require an experienced touch to properly line up flash hole liner to center of pan split etc. I wasn't trying to say it didn't need help, only that mine, and the others I am aware of were matched up well enough to be functional. Making the thread starter aware that things could, and evidently have gone wrong with your gun is a part of the original information request. Sorry my intention was misconstruede.
 

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I can understand a flintlock being a bit more picky on inletting in the key areas, and considering my T/C Renegade was a caplock, the differences could very possibly require an experienced touch to properly line up flash hole liner to center of pan split etc. I wasn't trying to say it didn't need help, only that mine, and the others I am aware of were matched up well enough to be functional. Making the thread starter aware that things could, and evidently have gone wrong with your gun is a part of the original information request. Sorry my intention was misconstruede.
Good points there! Not sure if thread starter's gun is a caplock or flintlock?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, so we are satisfied that the barrel is safe. Now to clean it up. I see many store bought products but most are for "in between shots" or general cleanup. What would you guys suggest to clear up the bore of corrosion and surface rust. I have seen unusual things like oven cleaner, is that true? what else would you suggest? Thanks
 

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I'd use very hot, soapy water and a wire cleaning brush. Let it dry good and then a light coat of gun oil on a patch before you put it away.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'd use very hot, soapy water and a wire cleaning brush. Let it dry good and then a light coat of gun oil on a patch before you put it away.
Sorry for all the questions. Your comment about oil, I'm guessing you mean the bore so that made me think of another question. Do you run a dry swab to clean out the oil before you load it ? thanks
 

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For rust removal the best product I've found is Kroil oil. Apply a good heavy coat and let it sit overnight. Since your dealing with a bore be ready to sacrifice a bore brush. Have at the bore with a bore brush and a good solvent. Since we are dealing with rust I believe a regular gun solvent for modern firearms will work just fine.

After you have your patches coming out as clean as possible, then apply a light coating of oil (inside and outside) for storage. Prior to shooting run a patch or two down the barrel with your normal BP cleaning stuff to remove any excess oil you have in the bore.

I haven't found anything better for rust removal than Kroil oil. Your milage may vary!!
 

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My friend got her fathers inline back from her ex once, you could tell that it had never been cleaned. The rust was growing like moss inside the barrel. I put a .50 brush and rod in a drill and keep the barrel soaked in CLP while I ran that thing up and down the barrel. After about 20 minutes of alternating from that to patches and back and forth the barrel had all the stuff out of it. Some very deep pitting, especially around where the charge goes. It was a cheap CVA wolf so no real loss but it shoots about 3 to 4 inch groups at 100 yards now. No idea what it used to shoot.
 

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I also got a cheap wolf with a rusted barrel, I plugged the breech and used this after a couple of cleaning solvent and steel wool passes, Then I put it in a vise wrapped in a piece of leather and filled it with Evapo-Rust Rust Remover,
Next am the barrel looked like new. some pits but at 50 yards I touch holes. Worked great for me.

Good luck, Stant
 

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Do not use a drill EXCEPT on smooth bore barrels ! PB Blaster jag/brass brush wrapped with 0000 steel wool well oiled and pump up and down to polish rifling.
 
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