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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I meticulously clean my muzzleloaders (flints, percussion caps & in-lines)before putting them back in the safe, yet I still seem to get rust in the barrels & around the breaches. What am I doing wrong? I add a thin coating of Rem-oil after cleaning. Suggestions? Oh, the rust is heaviest on my CVAs (HunterMag & Kodiak).
 

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I use just use the regular Hoppe's. No rust problems. I put a very fine coating inside the barrel, and put a few patches through it before I use it. I never seem to have any problems with my flinter going off.

The outside of a muzzleloader is no different than any other kind of gun.
 

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Some oils evaporate and permit rust to occur. It may take weeks or months, but nearly all do. Better gun oils are designed to be lesss prone to evaporation. Perhaps better drying before oiling annd putting them away. I know a guy that uses a hair dryer on the metal of his black powder guns to make sure they are dry. Some "gun" oils are just cheap machine oil. Some are better.
 

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Do you have any humidity problem in your area where the safe is? Any residual black powder will play heck on metal even if it is microscopic. There is a device called a "Golden Rod" that you can get for inside of a safe to keep the humidity at a desired level. It is supposed to be 100 times better than silica crystals.
 

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Montana X-treme bore oil

All of my rifles got Ultra Coatings Bore coat and the Dyna Coat Gun Shield. Seals them up and makes cleaning a heck of a lot easier.
 

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Get rid of the petrolium base products on muzzys.Clean that rust off with 0000 steel wool and olive oil.Wipe off and give a light coat of olive oil.Other than Bear oil its the only oil I use on any of my guns.
 

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I have cleaned my black powder barrel guns with nothing else but a foaming cleaner. Then, during the season I give them a light coating of Break-free CLP When I'm going to load it, I will run a dry patch down the bore to remove any CLP that is still hanging out.

For long term storage, I do the same except I give the bore a heavy coating of CLP. I've never had a rusting problem.

Today's barrels are made with modern metals. So, modern cleaning products should be used to keep them clean.

SW
 

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any non petroleum vegetable based product coated all over even in all the nooks and crannies, you'll have to clean up and swab out before shooting but no rust in all my years
 

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Everybody gets their own system, it seems.

Blackpowder seems to attract moisture. I always cleaned my muzzleloader after use, used "moose milk", a homemade cleaner of dish soap, water and water soluable oil. My final act was to use a thin amount of WD40 inside and out.

Hard to believe WD40 been around for over 35 years. My one muzzleloader has and it still shoots good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think my rust problems stem from my gun safe's location in my basement. Local gunstore owner swears by "GoldenRod" dehumidifiers. Am picking one up today. In addition, I cleanned the guns thoughly last night, dried them with a hairdryer and put a thin coating of BoreButter on them.

Other suggestions are still welcomed.
 

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Jim Chambers sells an oil for the barrel and a second thinnner oil for the lock---I like them both. I have also used bore butter and no rust----are you sure you are letting them dry throughly before you put on the oil?
 

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I use BB and use a air compressor to make sure all of the moisture is wicked away.My rifle is flawless.Petroleum oils will never touch any part of my flinty,s.
 

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Skip the Remoil. It's great for centerfire rifles but not for a muzzleloader. I have an Omega and a Buckstalker and I use 2 Cabela's Rust Preventative Patches, (their version of Bore Butter), whenever I store either gun.
 
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