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Discussion Starter #1
Sooooo... let me tell you a story. I have owned my first M/L for about a week now and I'm learning fast. A friend advised me to swab the bore after each shot with a dry patch. Yesterday I did and as most of you can guess the rod became stuck. Stuck in such a way as to make my father proud.(I was always taught to do something do it to the best of my abilities). After several unsucessful attempts at dislodging I finally wraped the end of the rod with leather and placed it in the vice, I know ...I know bad idea, but I was in a modified state of panic(opening day drawing near). As I began to apply a tremendous ammount of force the patched end pulled off, WHOLY CRAP, leaving me with a pointed stick and a deep sense of stupidity (I can almost see the all too familure site of my father shaking his head and groaning "boy you could tear-up an anvil with a feather"). After much thought I decided to jamb the rod back inside the barrel in an attempt to reattach it to the lodges end piece, which felt like a snug fit. I then poured about an ounce of #13 down the barrel and after a few minutes was able to pull out the the entire rod, Yee Haw!(See Dad, I'm not the dullest knife in the drawer after all). So my question is what is everyones shooting sequence? Should I swab between shots of so with what (I know not a dry patch)? I know repetition at each shot will make for better accuracy and fewer mistakes( You know, as you're pushing that patched ball down and realize there's no powder below it, Doh!!) OK fellas educate me.
 

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1 wet followed by 2 dry.Get a "T" handle for your rod.
 

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I clean after the third shot on the range... I use Butch's Black Powder solvent or TC's solvent. Will run as many patches down until they come out fairly white, then 2-3 dry ones.

Q-tip soaked in rubbing alcohol for the pan, frizzen and flint.
 

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I use the pre-lubed cleaning patches, right now I have T17 by TC and Wonderlube 1000 by Traditions. First a single stroke straight top to bottom and remove, patch will be very black. Turn same patch over and give it a couple scrubs going from top to bottom, that side of the patch will only be gray. Finally a dry patch scrubbed to remove excess. You use 2 patches, 1 lubed, 1 dry. In non-hunting I do this after every shot. Loading will stay consistant and easy.
 

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all of the above plus you may want to get a "range rod". A rod used when target shooting etc. I have both brass for my mt rifles and fibreglass (48" long)for my long rifles. I pin the ends, drill through the end of the rod sideways and "pin" some will also epoxy and pin their ends. Get a T handle and all the goodies, Jag end for patches, worm for snagging lost patches and a screw for pulling balls.

The safest way to remove a ball is with CO2 or compressed air.

Get a Track of the Wolf or Log Cabin or some other cat. or web site and start drolling.

First get a big tackle box to hold all your goodies, makes a great "shootin' box".

You have sniffed the sulfer so there is no going back, welcome to the club and enjoy
 

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There are some guys who are much more experienced than I who say that if you have to swab between shots, your ball/patch combo is not tight enough. They recommend using a thicker patch,or larger diameter ball, or both, thus making a better seal, burning more of the load, and thus reducing fouling. They document going on woods walks and shooting in excess of 50 shots and never wiping.

I intend to fully test this soon, using some denim as patch material.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My only regret is that I didn't start sooner. If I decide to use a wet patch between shots what liquid should be used (spit, alcohol, water......) thanks for all the help.
" I love the smell of sulfer in the morning....smells like victory.)
 

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I wet TC13 patch, 1 dry patch (2 if real soggy), 1 patch lubed with Wonderlube. I do after every shot. This takes some time but My rod does not get stuck, I load powerbelts with ease and after done at the range I have taken up to 2 days to do the thorough cleaning without rust issues. Lots of good ideas here. C what works fer U !
 

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You can swab after every shot or every three shots. It's up to you. But don't ever, as you already know, swab with a dry patch. You can use spit, alcohol, solvent, or plain ole water. Only use a dry patch after you use one of the fore mentioned to clean your barrel. I'd get my advise from someone other than your friend.
 

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I swab mine out after every three shots. I cut a patch out of an old t-shirt. I have tried spit patches and they work well, but makes my mouth dry. So at the range I bring a water bottle with me to wet the patches. I ring them out and swab my barrel with both sides of the patch. That is it.
 

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When working up a load...I swab between EVERY shot. wet and follow by dry.
 

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Lessons learned are important. When at the range, I swab after every shot. I use Hoppes bore lube/cleaner. Shoot, wet patch, dry patch, and then re-load.

I know a guy who did the same thing you did. He decided to try and shoot it out.
He took out the touch-hole liner and put "some" powder in. Put the liner back in and put his rifle in a vise STILL IN HIS BASEMENT! Used a string to pull the trigger, and shot a hole right thru his furnace.

Things can go wrong, use your head and deal with them intelligently. Sounds like you did fine.
 

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It probably isn't too funny to the fella you know, but that is some funny stuff!! At least he didn't get hurt.

happy birthday!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It's always funny when it happens to someone else.( with no loss of blood of course). It doesn't seem as if anybody went out today.
 

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I have a separate ramrod which is a little longer and has a T handle for cleaning on the range. I also pinned the ramrod end through the wood rod with a tiny roll pin. Pretty tough for that to come off now.... I also stuffed one of those rubber jar opener grip pads into my bag. It makes it easier to grip the end of your ramrod if it gets stuck in the field.
 
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