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Discussion Starter #1
Over the summer I picked up a Rem 700BDL in 35 Whelen. As most of you know, after some problems, I got it shooting great. The trouble I'm having now it the recoil. Call me a wuss, but I can only fire about 6 rounds before my shoulder is crying uncle. I thought about another recoil pad, but not sure how much that would help as it already has a substantial pad on it.

A friend mentioned getting a muzzle brake for it. I would love to get one put on, but don't feel like plunking down the cash. I found a clamp on that looks promising, but I'm worried that it will mar up the barrel. Someone else, probably tong in cheek, said to get it ported. I thought that was only an option for shotguns.

So what is everyone's opinion on this? I really need to do something before next summer. I'm going to get the supplies this winter to hand load, so 6 rounds at a time just won't work at the range next summer.
 

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Kick ease or limbsaver pad would be a first choice Also a good rest I like Bench Master rest the best and once it is sighted in how many shots at one time do you need to take ?
 

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Just curious, is there a reason that you don't want to just trade/sell that gun and just look for another in a different caliber?
 

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There are only so many ways you can reduce actual recoil.......

Increase gun weight
Decrease bullet weight
Decrease powder charge weight
Muzzle brake/compensator

The best place to start would be with a GOOD recoil pad to reduce FELT recoil. The Sims LimbSaver is top notch and can turn a true monsters (WAY beyond .35 Whelen class) into very shootable rifles.

If you reload......... Accurate Arms makes a powder called AA-5744. You may reduce your loadings to whatever you want. An Accurate Arms ballistician told me in a phone conversation that the minimum loading for AA-5744 is however many grains it takes to insure the bullet leaves the barrel EVERY time. So you could load your Whelen down to 1000 fps or less, I suppose, if you wanted.
 

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I wouldn't recommend "clamp on" anything. You are on the right track.... handloads, but stay within book specks (noticeable but marginal gains), I do porting thats integral with the bore for $150 or some type of screw on break if that suits you better(the best way to reduce recoil), and or a mercury type reducer that goes in the butt stock(average $65-$100- works well but adds approx a pound of weight). I just ported and installed a merc reducer for a youth 30-30 and the kids dad purchased low recoil loads....WOW, like shooting an air gun!! Good luck
 

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All good ideas.

You could try a Past Recoil Shield for sighting in and then as has been said you won't notice the recoil in the field.

The cheapest solution is to go with a lighter bullet and load. The lighter Barnes bullets perform very well even at lower velocities.
 

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Like others have said, go with the sims pad. Just put one on my T3 lite .300 WM, and it made a huge difference. For cheaper than a lead sled, you can slip a sandbag between your shoulder and the stock and get almost the same effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, selling the gun is an option. I am seriously thinking about buying a Savage action and building what I want. I purchased this with the idea of having a long range deer gun if needed. Also,I have aspirations some day of going on hunts, so the idea of getting rid of the caliber is out of the question, gun not so much. And as such, loading down is also out. The gun is light so I know that is part of the problem.

Maybe it's just the way it kicks, but I can shoot my 12 & 10 ga 3-1/2" shotguns all day long. And that 10 will just about put you on the ground. While some of the ideas that were given for reducing the recoil at the bench might work, they won't work for me. Perfect practice makes perfect, I shoot at the bench as I would in the field. If a gun is going to knock me on my bum then so be it, I want to know that and get used to it before I'm in the field.

Guess I need to look into the Simms pads.
 

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Strut10 covered you options very well.

A few things I will add. A recoil pad will not make the gun kick less, but some will absorb the recoil better then others. Just because the current pad is thick doesnt mean that it will absorb recoil. A solid rubber pad with sharp corners isnt any better then a plastic or metal butt plate. I have also noticed the height and shooters position when shooting off a bench can make felt recoil worse. Alot of ranges have low benches that make the shooter lean down into the gun. Shooting from a bench that allows your upper body to stay vertical makes recoil alot more tolarable.

Good luck, Tony
 

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TRAPJAW said:
Maybe it's just the way it kicks, but I can shoot my 12 & 10 ga 3-1/2" shotguns all day long.
I think you need to look into a Sims pad AND a new stock.

If you are shooting 3 1/2" shotshells, you are soaking up close to double the recoil generated by your Whelen.

FACT.

I think the gun just fits you poorly. I'd look into a decent quality, aftermarket stock that is, possibly, straighter through the wrist AND has or can accept a really good pad.

I really can't see a Whelen developing painful recoil in a properly fitting stock until gun weight would go under 6 pounds.

Possibly visit a local smith and have him measure you and recommend a suitable handle for your rifle.
 

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<Maybe it's just the way it kicks, but I can shoot my 12 & 10 ga 3-1/2" shotguns all day long.>

But not from the bench....right?

How about having it rebarrelled rather than buy a new gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tony, you're right. I looked at it tonight and while the pad on it is about 1-1/2" thick it is about as hard as a table top. At least the pad on my 10ga is a red rubber pad that has the consistency of a pencil eraser.

Strut, you're probably right that the stock isn't perfect. After all it is a factory Remington stock. Trouble I have is I hate to ruin the value of a gun by modifying it. Changing the stock would be my last resort, right before I thread it for a BOSS. Frankly though, if it came to that, I'd just build a 35.

Dog, no I've patterned my 10 and 12 with turkey loads from the bench. Now the caveat to that would be that my 10 probably weighs twice what the rifle does. It's a double 10 with 32" barrels and the stock is weighted. I've never weighed it, but I'd have to guess somewhere in the 10-12lb range. The 12 is only about 7lbs though, again with a healthy recoil pad.
 

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TRAPJAW said:
Trouble I have is I hate to ruin the value of a gun by modifying it. Changing the stock would be my last resort, right before I thread it for a BOSS.
Guess it comes down whether you are going to use the gun or collect the gun. Since you have already fired the gun, most any serious collector potential it may have had is largely gone.

Switching it out and into a better stock will not hurt its value at all. You put the original stock in a box and if you ever go to sell the gun, put it right back in the factory stock. No value lost.

Thread a BOSS on it, however......... you've severely altered the gun. Its value will suffer.
 

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All options are good. But seems you got something you're worried about value. Value will increase or decrease by what you add or remove. Maybe best option is to leave rifle alone. Take the few dollars lost from shooting it, sell te rifle and buy something that you truly will enjoy. I personally wouldn't own a rifle or gun I don't enjoy. Let someone else enjoy it and you get what you truly want. There are many options but it's up to you, money can be an issue at times. But personally, I would measure cost of changes versus buying new. Do research on internet and in time. You will be please.
 
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