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I have a model seven compact in .243 that I put in a bell and Carlson medalist stock.I started to get a hankering for a 338 federal and thought this might be the perfect platform.I have a gunsmith that could do it but was curious what it should cost and if there's any other good smith in western Pa.
 

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I charge $175.00 to thread and chamber. This does not include anything else, bluing, adjusting feed ramps or mag lips etc. HTH
 

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If you have to ask, you probably can't afford it - is my motto..

If you are questioning his ability or credentials and don't like his price, then you probably should look elsewhere.

If I was going to ruin a new rifle, I wouldn't want to take it to the cheapest person available, I would want to take it to the most qualified.
Its ballistics and velocity compares to a 30-06 in a smaller case, but if you want velocity in a 30-06, you don't shoot a 180 gr bullet!
You just can't walk into a Walmart the night before deer season and pick up a couple of boxes of shells. If you go to camp and forget your shells you are screwed..
Here is what Chuck Hawks had to say about it.
This case has the considerable advantage of having been designed to work in short action rifles. Its disadvantage is that the .308 case has a shorter neck than the 7x57 and to function in short action rifles the relatively long .338 bullets must be seated pretty deep in the case.

The price to be paid for higher performance is, of course, increased recoil. I am convinced that heavy recoil, more than any other factor, is what has limited the popularity of all the previous standard medium bore cartridges, including the .33 Winchester, .348 Winchester, .35 Winchester, .356 Winchester, .358 Winchester, and .35 Whelen.

Despite all of the discussion about long range shooting and long range rifles, the reality is that most deer are killed at less than 100 yards in North America. A brush bucking .338 cartridge is superior for woods and brush country deer hunting to a high velocity small bore.
 

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I just paid a little over $500 each to have 3 Mauser rifles rebarreled. Since you aren't looking at a Savage it will likely need reblued, my smith told me.


Honestly, I slightly regret what I did. But that is only because I'm cheap. There is a part of me that wishes I would have bought something already in those calibers. But by the time I'm done with them I should have guns that will make you go WOW!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have to ask, you probably can't afford it - is my motto..

If you are questioning his ability or credentials and don't like his price, then you probably should look elsewhere.

If I was going to ruin a new rifle, I wouldn't want to take it to the cheapest person available, I would want to take it to the most qualified.
Its ballistics and velocity compares to a 30-06 in a smaller case, but if you want velocity in a 30-06, you don't shoot a 180 gr bullet!
You just can't walk into a Walmart the night before deer season and pick up a couple of boxes of shells. If you go to camp and forget your shells you are screwed..
Here is what Chuck Hawks had to say about it.
This case has the considerable advantage of having been designed to work in short action rifles. Its disadvantage is that the .308 case has a shorter neck than the 7x57 and to function in short action rifles the relatively long .338 bullets must be seated pretty deep in the case.

The price to be paid for higher performance is, of course, increased recoil. I am convinced that heavy recoil, more than any other factor, is what has limited the popularity of all the previous standard medium bore cartridges, including the .33 Winchester, .348 Winchester, .35 Winchester, .356 Winchester, .358 Winchester, and .35 Whelen.

Despite all of the discussion about long range shooting and long range rifles, the reality is that most deer are killed at less than 100 yards in North America. A brush bucking .338 cartridge is superior for woods and brush country deer hunting to a high velocity small bore.

My motto before I have anyone do anything is to ask about the price.It's not a matter of not having the money.I do want someone qualified which is why I'm asking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just paid a little over $500 each to have 3 Mauser rifles rebarreled. Since you aren't looking at a Savage it will likely need reblued, my smith told me.


Honestly, I slightly regret what I did. But that is only because I'm cheap. There is a part of me that wishes I would have bought something already in those calibers. But by the time I'm done with them I should have guns that will make you go WOW!

I'm not a real big savage fan,which is the only man chambering for the .338 fed right now.If I could find a Kimber Montanna in one,that's what I'd buy but I'm striking out there.I have this model 7 that gets little use since my son moved up to a .308 and figured it would make a cool bear gun.I haven't bought a box of factory ammo in over 25 years so availablity of ammo is of no concern.
 

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Not sure who has any kind of service done without first asking the price.


I have one of the original model 7 in 708 with the 18" pencil thin barrel, I put it in a B&C stock 30 years ago. Been considering having it re-barreled to 358. A local smith gave me a price of $400. That was with a stainless Shilen barrel. Included cutting to length, crown, and fitting. But the contour of the 358 barrel would be bigger than the 708 so I would hog out the stock myself for it to fit. Already did it once to float the 708 barrel. Whatever barrel you choose will probably be the most significant part of the cost. I would choose a high quality barrel to make the cost of the build most effective. If you get a production grade barrel you really can't justify the cost over just buying a new gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I plan on getting a high-end barrel and having it done right.I'd actually like to just find one in a Kimber Montana but they're pretty scarce.
 

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Not sure who has any kind of service done without first asking the price.


I have one of the original model 7 in 708 with the 18" pencil thin barrel, I put it in a B&C stock 30 years ago. Been considering having it re-barreled to 358. A local smith gave me a price of $400. That was with a stainless Shilen barrel. Included cutting to length, crown, and fitting. But the contour of the 358 barrel would be bigger than the 708 so I would hog out the stock myself for it to fit. Already did it once to float the 708 barrel. Whatever barrel you choose will probably be the most significant part of the cost. I would choose a high quality barrel to make the cost of the build most effective. If you get a production grade barrel you really can't justify the cost over just buying a new gun.
YES-do not make the same mistake I made! Back in the late 90s, when Winchester re-introduced their Model 70 Featherweight Classic, I picked one up in 7mm-08 for just such a conversion. BUT, I told the smith to match the contour of the stock barrel. What I got was a really neat trim package, but the barrel was just too thin for .358. POI would move 4-6 inches between cold-hot barrel :(

Over the course of the next 12 years, I tried free floating, bedding & trigger work and finally cutting the barrel down to 18 inches to stiffen it up and it's shooting ~2 inches with handloads. Over that same time, I shared numerous emails and had many phone conversations with other gunsmiths. I even talked to one of the guys in Mark Bansner's shop who said..."Yeah, that'll never shoot with that barrel"

SO, I sure wish I would have gotten the proper diameter barrel for a 358 Win to begin with!
 

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Not sure who has any kind of service done without first asking the price.


I have one of the original model 7 in 708 with the 18" pencil thin barrel, I put it in a B&C stock 30 years ago. Been considering having it re-barreled to 358. A local smith gave me a price of $400. That was with a stainless Shilen barrel. Included cutting to length, crown, and fitting. But the contour of the 358 barrel would be bigger than the 708 so I would hog out the stock myself for it to fit. Already did it once to float the 708 barrel. Whatever barrel you choose will probably be the most significant part of the cost. I would choose a high quality barrel to make the cost of the build most effective. If you get a production grade barrel you really can't justify the cost over just buying a new gun.
I don't think the barrel would hold rifling if it was bored out to .708!
Where do you buy bullets at, or do you just cast your own?
Did you have to get a special license from the ATF to own it?
 

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I just paid a little over $500 each to have 3 Mauser rifles rebarreled. Since you aren't looking at a Savage it will likely need reblued, my smith told me.


Honestly, I slightly regret what I did. But that is only because I'm cheap. There is a part of me that wishes I would have bought something already in those calibers. But by the time I'm done with them I should have guns that will make you go WOW!
I always get a good laugh when someone thinks that all you have to do is remove the nut on the end of the barrel to rebarrel a Savage..
When you tell them that the nut really doesn't do anything except act as a lock nut, they usually end up looking at you like you are crazy.
 

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We are blessed with great gunsmiths in PA, I would certainly be willing to travel or ship a gun so don't limit yourself to an area.

Along with replacing the barrel you should consider trueing the action and having the lugs lapped, these will help a lot with accuracy, if you have him pin the recoil lug it will make switching back to your original barrel a 2 minute do it yourself project..

Top barrel makes, Bartlein, Kreiger, Broughton, Hart to name a few, Grizzly tools carries some in stock, you can order direct from the manufacturer too, it could take between 3 and 6 months.

Talk to the Smith you decide on using and ask questions. Mark King, Sid Goodling, Bob Green, Ted Ulmer, Dave Bruno are just a couple top notch smiths.

There used to be a video posted on Dan Lilja's web site comparing factory barrels to custom barrels, it's a real eye opener.
 

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I agree with everything Gunnermhr posted.
New Barrel - 350.00
Thread fit chamber- 200.00
True or blue print action- 200.00- 225.00
Bedding- 125-200.00

Do all of this you will have a first class rifle. I use Bob Green does excellent work.
 
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