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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I saved my doe tag for late season flinting, have an older TC hawken that I got in the late 70's, she shoots pretty good with patched round ball and 83 grains, never used a wad or bore button between powder and ball should I try this, also few years back I couldn't find any 2f so I bought can of 3f been using it am I hurting performance and should I go back to 2f, thanks and it was hard not taking the recurve back out in bow but glad now wife connected on a nice buck last week which gave us two in archery which is enough for now, a young doe in late season would work out real nice keep us from buying beef for a while.
 

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There is a geometrical problem with using a wad between the powder and a PRB. A bore diameter wad like a felt wonder wad, is flat. When compressed down against the powder by a patched round ball, the wad curves to the diameter of the ball. When the powder ignites and the pressure is forced against the ball, it is still curved, this time under much more pressure. The problem as I see it, is that a bore diameter wad curved up against a patched round ball , loses a third of it's diameter, leaving a ring around the wad where the patch is exposed to the burning powder. Some folks swear it helps seal the bore, gives higher velocity, and cures other muzzleloading aches and pains. From a strict junior highschool geometry point of view (circumference equals 3.1417 x diameter) the wad when pressed against the curvature of the ball, just plain can't seal the bore. This seems to be an idea that stems from the days when flat based bullets were first used in muzzleloaders and a wad was necessary to seal the bore andd keep the powder from melting the lead bullet (that was not sealed or protected by the patch like a round ball)

For that reason, I have never used a wad over the powder when shooting a PRB.
 

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Zimmy nailed it. It she's running good on 3F with a plain PRB, why mess with it? The only time it may help to use a wad is when you have some sort of problem and "need" the wad to make-up for a lacking of something else somewhere along the way. If you do need to use a wad like the flexible wool felt, the wad needs to be considerably larger than the Groove diameter just as Zim explained above.

I haven't seen much benefit from the soft wads used in conjunction with PRB's - under balls in a C&B revolver they often prove valuable. When there are issues with a PRB, I suggest using the pre-lubed 3/8" thick fiber wads from Circle Fly Wads but you need to size the wad so it's larger than the groove diameter not the bore diameter (bore diameter is the minimum diameter, groove diameter is the maximum diameter inside a rifled barrel)
 

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scotchirish said:
Thanks guys, guess if it ain't broke don't try and fix it.
EXACTLY!!! I find it hard not to want to try new things when things are working just fine too. But experience will dictate otherwise.
 

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You might even consider reducing your charge if using FFFg instead of FFg. If your TC is a .50 cal., 83 grains of FFFg is a pretty warm charge. Drop back in 5 grain increments with your FFFg, and see if you just might find a sweeter spot your barrel appreciates.

I use 85 grains of FFFg in my .54 cal. Green Mt. barrel, and it actually smiles, I think!
 

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Usually as a rule of thumb, a T/C 1:48 barrels sweet spot is 70-80 gr. FFG, a .490 roundball and a .015 cotton patch. That is from my experince with them and actually matches what T/C`s booklet reccomends for a hunting loads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again, gonna measure out some 75 grain loads and head down to the range at the club, will let you know how she likes it.
 

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A properly patched RB needs nothing else.Proof at 50yds.

 

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I think he traced that black circle from his truck tire!!


Nice shootin'
 

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hey guys. We all like to brag and show off. But how about including a ruler in the photos. Gives a more uniform basis for comparison. A cannon club I belong to asks everyone to include a Goex can in the pictures so we can all have a uniform reference.
 

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How much more ruler do you need with a 1/2"(50 cal) hole as a guide?Do the math.
Lets see.1/2" touching 1/2" with about another 1/2" space then another 1/2".
 

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So......410-er....what's the big deal? You don't own a ruler? You don't know how to read it? Or you photoshop your target's to make 'em look good? Hmmmmmmm.
 

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Any TC or Lyman 1:48 will give 1 1/2" or less.The 1:60-66 give me even tighter with a RB.

 

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See....now was that so hard?

(hey.....I think that ruler was photoshoped into that target!!!)
 

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BACK to the ORIGIONAL question!The only time a button or wad helped me was in expermenting with Maxis.They did tighten groups by slowing blow-by.I don't in anyway suggest Maxis for safty reasons with hunting.Smokin50 is a big Maxi fan and I have sold him some of the ones I poured.Not sure if he uses a wad in his matches he wins.
 

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ORIGIONAL, oh....you mean ORIGINAL! I'll check that measurement.....as soon as I get my glasses.
 

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DaveT said:
So......410-er....what's the big deal? You don't own a ruler? You don't know how to read it? Or you photoshop your target's to make 'em look good? Hmmmmmmm.
Dave...such stupid/nonsense posts directed towards 410-er's target pics is disturbing to say the least. I have a suspicion that 410-er has forget more about muzzleloading than you ever knew so back off my friend. We warmly welcome folks posting-up pics of range targets here & dont need any unfounded Dick Tracy second guessing crap!!

Zimmie...I have posted, viewed thousands of range targets & like 410-er said...if the caliber is disclosed...why the need for rulers etc unless you are too are a very inexperienced shooter! The math aint too complicated in interperlation of adjacent caliber .50 sizes etc. to understand grouping size.
!!

Bottomline...I & my guess many here most welcome folks to post-up pics of their targets!! Very useful info in connection with loads etc. Those that cant figgure out respective group size proportions based upon caliber size comparisons without rulers etc..may God Bless them!!
 
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