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Discussion Starter #1
I started reloading for the first time on my own today. The pleasure was the .357 Sig with new Hornady brass.

Specs of the round:
New unfired Hornady .357 Sig brass
Alliance Blue Dot - 10.3 gr.
9 mm Hornady #3557
CCI primer

Issue
Out of 50 brass, I ruined 5 Hornady brass. This round seems very tricky to load in the RCBS Rock Chucker. I sized the new brass in the RCBS die, but I didn't notice a difference in the brass' neck from an unsized brass to the sized brass. Seemed odd to me. For every round, I had to manipulate the bullet so it would seat correctly. I ultimately ruined 5 Hornady brass out of 50. If the bullet is not seated absolutely straight up and down, it was guaranteed to push the bullet into the brass. The result was either the neck becoming an oval, or the bullet would push the brass down the side of the brass and ruining the brass.

I am wondering what you guys do so you don't ruin so much brass?

We shot up 20 rounds that I loaded. They shot great and very accurate. We decided to shoot in the dark with a flashlight shining behind the shooter to the target. We could actually see the bullet flying to the target, that was awesome!
 

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When you say "noticed" are you using your eyeballs or a micrometer?We that don't ruin brass measure it to make sure it is in specs per the manual,that I hope you have.When you size brass it becomes longer and needs measured and possibly trimmed.You need a quality case trimmer for that.You could buy case trimming dies and files but in the long run a case trimmer is best.While you are shopping you need something to clean the inside and outside of the case neck.
 

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I just looked at the brass for you firearm.It is a bottleneck cartridge it needs sized,trimmed and chamfered to load and function properly.Oh and you still need to put any bullet in straight.You will not ruin brass then.Did you read up on reloading before you did it?It can be dangerous if not done properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hiamovi, thanx for your interest. I did use a micrometer and checked all 50 of the brass, and none needed trimming. I even called Hornady and they recommended the overall length to be 1.14 and that was exactly what I made them. The factory load of Lawman 124 gr. was 1.12.

The BIG problem that I have is getting the bullet to seat straight as to not crush/crunch the brass and ruin the casing. Any suggestions?
 

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Bell the case mouth slightly, so the bullet just enters the case mouth by hand pressure and stays square before entering the seating die. You will need a special die for this belling procedure some die sets have it already included.
 

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I'm guessing you didn't chamfer the outside/inside of your necks before trying to seat?

You always need to chamfer the necks on new brass or freshly trimmed cases....
 

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winchesterbob said:
I'm guessing you didn't chamfer the outside/inside of your necks before trying to seat?

You always need to chamfer the necks on new brass or freshly trimmed cases....
I'm guessing the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
R2D2 said:
winchesterbob said:
I'm guessing you didn't chamfer the outside/inside of your necks before trying to seat?

You always need to chamfer the necks on new brass or freshly trimmed cases....
I'm guessing the same thing.
I think you guys solved my problem, I'll give the update tonight. Any recommendations on brand to look for?
 

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Lee makes an expander die - you pretty much need to bell the mouth on straight wall cases and many times with any flat base bullet when reloading. My Dillon powder die does that when I'm loading progressivley on my 550B. Everybody makes a chamfering tool. RCBS has a 3 way cutter that does both at the same time.
 

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did you use all three die when you loaded? one die resizes the brass, the second one bells or flairs the mouth of the case, and the third seats and crimps the brass to hold the bullet in the case. hope this helps with your loading. im assuming that your dies came with three dies.
 

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I've been loading for a fair amount of time. I sold my 357sig an all the components b/c its a P.I.A. to load. The neck needs to have just the right tension to hold the bullet and be sized just right to let the bullet seat. Also their are specific "357sig" size 9mm's. Wasn't worth the time in my opinion.
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How I solved the problem was simple....10mm shoots heavier bullets just as fast or faster. Yes the grip is slightly bigger but it'll get the job done better zs well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So we used a chamfer and deburring tool. It didn't help much. I think they are just a P.I.A. to load!
 
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