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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started getting rid if my old beat up flambeau floaters and replacing them with dakotas. On my old dekes I have the nylon cords with the weights that can go over the head for bagging. I rigged my goose floaters with 60" texas rigging and planned on doing the same with my new mallards. So while some of my spots are very shallow what do you guys do when switching to a deeper water. Do you keep seperate long lines and anchors and just switch them out? I will be carrying in slotted bags and don't wanna bust up the paint.
 

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Lifetime decoys makes a nice system with a stainless, tangle free coated line with a large nickel snap swivel on them. I leave mine on, but they come off easy enough and could fit in a crown royal bag.
 

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If they have a line hook or clip on the keel just rig with longer line make a half hitch over the hook or pull line through the clip to adjust for depth and leave the remaining line around keel.
 

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My son and I have combined efforts to build our decoys inventory to the point that we have "shallow water" decoys and "deep water" decoys, in both goose and duck decoys.

I mean really ...... can a guy ever have enough decoys?


Yeh, ..... my wife doesn't understand it ... kinda like how women have TONS of shoes. That remark usually stops her rant.
 

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Green head, just to add to djknyork. Store at longest line length. Keeps the tangles to a minimum.
Buddy set his up with the push buttons you find on hooded sweatshirt drawstrings. Seems to work.
 

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I have a fairly unique system I worked out for Herters goose floaters. I uses mushroom anchors with s stem. I tie 12 feet of line to the decoy. Then I bend the anchor so I can wrap the line around it. I secure the line with a cable clip. I can take out as much line as necessary and clip the rest. I'll post a pic when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The half hitch in the keel and clip talk has got me confused. Lol! Any pics on the net if what you are talking about?
 

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I checked the Dakota ducks decoys they don't have a keel clip so its irrelevant but they do have a line hook at the front of the keel. Just half hitch or some other simple knot around it to the depth you want, leave the rest wrapped around the keel n throw.
Lots of other good ideas on here though.
 

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I have the decoy depth adjusters but what do you do with the free end? You cant tie it to anything. Here's my system for my Herters decoys.



 

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I hunt water that varies in depth all the time I put about 6 ft on mine and then when I hunt shallow water I just hook the line up in the little hook on the keel. I use the J weights that hook right up to the keel as well not sure what the weight of them is off the top of my head but the J's work well they really grab the bottom.
 

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H weights work similar to Vinny's design but with less to worry about. You roll out as much line as you need and then bring the line up through the center of the weight and hook it on one of the nubs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Kadd,
What brand weights and line are those?

How do you guys that use slotted bags keep the weights from banging on the dekes during transport?

Thanks!
 

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I use the ace anchors on all of my mallards (the heavier ones) with the bungee straps. The bungee straps tend to dry rot and loose their form if they stay stretched, so I just keep them loose, but try to put the weight below the duck if possible. Some banging around is unavoidable, but I haven't noticed where issues
 

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greenhead said:
Kadd,
What brand weights and line are those?

How do you guys that use slotted bags keep the weights from banging on the dekes during transport?

Thanks!
It's GHG Pro-Grade line. It's 1/8" line that wont tangle (macks PW has it - the catalog info is correct but the pic on their website looks wrong). A buddy molded the weights for me but you can find molds or weights like that on amazon or knutsons. The GHG slotted bags have a mesh pocket in each slot for a decoy weight. Most people never noticed that pocket.
 

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So that's what those mess pocket's are for. I never knew it. I wish I would've seen those H weights in the catalogs before I went through the trouble of rigging my system. I always learn the hard way. I'm going to buy some and put those cable clips to other uses.
 
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