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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up a Pedersoli .32 cal. Kentucky flintlock.

Want to do some squirrelin and may be some turkey hunting.

Whats your opinion of the make and the gun?

What do they like and what dont they like?

Bought it new at Dixons. Have about 20 or 30 shots out of her. Doing ok but I'm looking for suggestions to tighten her up a bit.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
.310 round balls

20 grs 3f

.015 patches.

Was thinking of going to .02 patches but I don't think I could get them down the barrel. The balls start easy, about 8" or so down I can't hardly move them.

Been reading on here about scrubing the bore down with very fine steel wool, do you put any lube on the wool? If so what?

Thanks for the reply.
 

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Any kind of oil.Just make sure to really clean it.Burnt petrolimum base products make a tar in the rifling.To protect from rust,I use Olive Oil.
Try even .315 or .312 balls.20 grs of FFFg is plenty.Some guys use 10grs.Patches from .015-.020.Use what groups the tightest at 25yds.
 

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i scrub my down when i got it with very fine steel years of go when i got it i think i used cuttin oil my pap had but its been years but i would go with what 410-er is sayin .ive learned alot by listening [reading] what these guys have to say
 

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The Missus shoots a Pedersoli Cub,50cal. This is in Percussion. The gun is a shooter! So far, very reliable. Just have to make sure the Chamber is completly oil free or it gums up and won`t fire.You should be satisfied with it.....
 

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Pedersoli makes a pretty good product.

Are you wiping the bore between shots??
A cause of the tight spot could be a fouling build up at about the point where the remaining unburned powder is burned when the ball exits the muzzle.

Before doing annything to the bore, because you might ruin it. Clean it goos and see it there is still a tight sopt using just a thick cleaning patch on the jag. If not, your tight spot is caused by fouling.

Even if there is still a tight spot, it could be some burs on the rifling and shooting another 20 or 50 shots is the best medicine.

If after you have a 100 shots thhrough it, wiping the bore between shots, the tight spot isn't lessening, then maybe a more drastic step.

Always remeember, that you can take more off, but it is hard as heck to put metal back on.

I would first use a one of the slightly abrasive bore cleaners on the market, like J&B. It is a greasy brown paste. Just put it on the patch and run it up and down the bore a dozen times,

If a clean dry tight patch is cut whhen running it down the barrelo, it is most likely burrs on the rifling. Just keep shooting.

Using more abrasive material can easily wear the heck and accuracy out of a bore before you know it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys for your replys!!!! I love this site, I read it everyday. I don't post often>>>> post shy I guess. Hunting with a finter is by far my favorite! Been doing it for 15+ years, but don't have the chance to shoot as often as i used to.I could, would and have given up the rifle season to hunt with the flinter.

I also have a TC 50 cal. hawkens and a Lyman 50 cal. deer stalker. I shoot the same poweder out of both and have the same (what i will call fouling) problem with the Lyman, but not the TC.

I'm using 75 grns of 2F in both of them. Out of the box the Deer stalker shot great, but over time she is going away.

I'm begining to think I' doing something wrong.
 

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20 grains may be a little hot for your gun. I have 2 32 caliber rifles and can't tell you what grains powder I use. I use a 38 S&W empty canterfire case for the 32's. It is a little shorter than the 38 Special case. Maybe 15 grains? Even that load seems a bit hot in the 32 in-line I have.
 

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Zimmer, I read somewhere that a 32 inline can use far less powder than a sidelock. This is because the primer in a 32 cal can actually force the ball down the barrrel. In the test I saw they were getting good results with less than 10 grains of powder.
 
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