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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i finally broke down and got some. Went to basspro today down in harrisburg and bought two packs of slick trick 100's. Im hoping they work as good as everyone says they do. I took one out of the package and was surprise at just how small they are. I knew they were small but i couldnt actually appreciate it until i assembled one and held it in my hand. Man they look nasty. Im getting a good feeling about these things.
 

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You will not be disappointed, unless you are planning on hunting 55 gal. drums (oh wait . . . I saw a video with those broadheads blasting through those as well)! Trust me they will pile the deer up quick like (with good shot placement). They provide tremendous pentration, but ultimately proper shot angle and placement are needed. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Best was when I shot mine, and they flew exactly like my field point. I didn't make the greatest shot last year on a 10 point, yet he only made it about 100yds before dropping with good blood. definitely a top of the line broadhead.
 

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Wasp Boss Bullet, 100 grain, 1 inch cutting diameter. I've killed a lot of big bucks with this broadhead. $35 for six. $15 for a package of six replacement blades. They fly like a field tip.
 

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Buck Whisperer said:
Well i finally broke down and got some. Went to basspro today down in harrisburg and bought two packs of slick trick 100's. Im hoping they work as good as everyone says they do. I took one out of the package and was surprise at just how small they are. I knew they were small but i couldnt actually appreciate it until i assembled one and held it in my hand. Man they look nasty. Im getting a good feeling about these things.
GOOD LUCK, YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED. THEY FLY TRUE AND MY RECOVERY LAST YEAR WAS ABOUT 40 YARDS ON MY BUCK.
 

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I will be using Rage 2bld. and Razor Tricks this fall. Rage has never let me down the last 2 years and the Razor Tricks are just downright nasty and fly great!
 

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I tired the Slick Tricks last year after using the sonic heads for a few years...........the Slick Tricks didnt fly very good out of my setup, and were all over the place..........I switched back to the sonic heads and couldnt be happier..........I guess if it aint broke it dont need no fixin
 

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i have not use the slick tricks my self but a buddy of mine shot a buck last year and i helped him track it. buck only went about 40 yards over a hill and stopped dead in his tracks. granted he had a really good double lung shot but the slick trick left a very nice hole through the deer. everyone i know who has them loves them. maybe someday i will give them a shot but as for now im happy with my muzzy's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ive been shooting a slick trick about every 8 shots during my practice sessions and im amazed at how good they fly. There really isnt much of a difference from my field points at all.
 

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GOT THE BOW OUT TONIGHT. SHOT ABOUT A DOZEN SHOTS AT 20 YDS. SCREWED A SLICKTRICK ON POW. DEAD CENTER X. BACKED UP TO THIRTY YARDS SHOT BROADHEAD AND ONE FIELD POINT, THE FLETCHING WAS TOUCHING SHAFTS. I SHOT THE BROADHEAD BEFORE THE FIELD POINT, NEVER SHOOT A SLICKTRICK AFTER A FIELD POINT, I GUARANTEE YOU WILL RUIN A SHAFT!!!!!
 

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robin hood said:
maybe someday i will give them a shot but as for now im happy with my muzzy's.
You and a WHOLE lot of other hunters accross the country. Probably the best selling broadhead and they been around for a long time. There's a reason for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ive shot thunderheads, wasp, and muzzies in the past. One thing they all had in common was that i had to sight them in differently than my field points. Now i never really took the time to tune a bow the way i have my current bow in perfect tune so i may have made judgements under false pretenses, but make no mistake about it. Slick tricks fly just like my field points. I was a skeptic at first and i admit it. I almost went with the rage 2 again this year even though i wasnt at all impressed with their penetration. I am definately a believer now though. 20, 30, and 40 yards fly exactly like my field points and i still have two pins to sight in. The only thing left to do after that is kill something.
 

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Just ordered a set of Grizz Tricks...all this talk is getting me anxious!!!
 

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Every broadhead should be shot out of a well-tuned bow.I've been using slicks long before most people ever even knew about them.They are easier to tune and less critical to tuning issues and flaws in form.However,I have definately seen them shoot differently than field points.Shooting a well tuned bow id the very least that can be asked of any bowhunter.
 

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So...

Can you elaborate on exactly what tuning your bow for your broadheads is? Paper tuning? Up poundage, move knock, rests?
 

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Regardless of what brand of broadheads you shoot, you should ALWAYS shoot a well tuned bow. If you're shooting a bow that the pro shop set up, it's basically like shooting a rifle that has only been bore sighted. It's meant to get you pretty close, but you must do the fine tuning. It makes all the difference in the world.

I use the paper tuning method with field points. Once you're shooting bullet holes, "most" broadheads will hit exactly where your field points do.

Unless you spend the time to accurately tune your bow, you will never shoot to your potential. Plus, an arrow shot out of a tuned bow will get much better penetration.
 

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I will disagree with paper tuning. Personally, it is worthless. Due to arrow oscillation, there is no way to determine at what stage the arrow is in when it hits the paper. Assuming you have a good setup: rest is center shot and arrows are spined correctly, walk back tuning is, to me, better. Do it first with field points, then with broadheads and you will have impact to the same point. Broadheads magnify any tuning flaw.
 

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jkeene said:
So...

Can you elaborate on exactly what tuning your bow for your broadheads is? Paper tuning? Up poundage, move knock, rests?
To make it simple,I make sure I have no clearance issues with my fletching and I also make sure my arrows are spined correctly.After that,I spin test each one to make sure they spin perfectly.

Once I know everything is in order,I paper tune at six feet just to get everything close.I then do some walk back tuning to fine tune everything.Usually that's good enough.However,I also shoot a group at 20 yards with field points and then shoot a couple BH's to see where they impact.If they impact to the left,I move my rest to the right just a hair,until the fp's and BH's come together.You can do the same for bh's that are shooting,high,low,left or right.

I do this ritual every spring when I replace my string and cable.It takes less than a half hour.I also keep two BH tipped arrows in my quiver and take a handful of shots with them everytime I shoot.
 

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dce said:
jkeene said:
So...

Can you elaborate on exactly what tuning your bow for your broadheads is? Paper tuning? Up poundage, move knock, rests?
To make it simple,I make sure I have no clearance issues with my fletching and I also make sure my arrows are spined correctly.After that,I spin test each one to make sure they spin perfectly.

Once I know everything is in order,I paper tune at six feet just to get everything close.I then do some walk back tuning to fine tune everything.Usually that's good enough.However,I also shoot a group at 20 yards with field points and then shoot a couple BH's to see where they impact.If they impact to the left,I move my rest to the right just a hair,until the fp's and BH's come together.You can do the same for bh's that are shooting,high,low,left or right.

I do this ritual every spring when I replace my string and cable.It takes less than a half hour.I also keep two BH tipped arrows in my quiver and take a handful of shots with them everytime I shoot.
So..... Last year I shot, my sonic heads w/ practice blades, and slick tricks in to my target. Both impacted the same point. Furthest distance I was able to shoot was out to 17 yards. Small yard.
I have since moved, threw away that target since the broadheads tore it up, got a new but cheaper target so I'm only shooting field points at it now.
I made no adjustments to my bow at all between BH's and FP's, and am still hitting the circle I'm shooting at.

Can I assume that my bow is tuned eventhough I never did any tuning besides paper tuning @ Gander when I first purchased it?
 
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