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Talked to Muzzy this week and asked how to get the 4 blade Muzzys to shoot straight past 50 yards without planing. The guy said to get as much offset and right helical as you can.

I am finally fletching my new arrows, so I put Blazer wraps on them and did the 75 x 105 4 fletch with Blazer vanes. Here are the pics.

<a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r165/Spur0479/?action=view&current=DSC01141.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r165/Spur0479/DSC01141.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>









Think there is enough offset there?
What do you guys think of my arrows? They are the Gold Tip 5575 XT hunters.
 

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I'm not trying to be a smart a--, why would you need to shoot over 50 yards?
 

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I'm assuming you're just shooting at some 3d targets or something? Are you doing this with broadheads?
 

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If you ever hunt out west, its nice to be able to shoot out that far. I was very comfortable and consistently had 4" groups at 50 yds with broadheads before I headed out west. Would I take a 50yd shot on a deer, yes, because I'm confident in my equipment and myself, and I PRACTICED.

Nice arrows by the way. I'm thinking of doing wraps myself.
 

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Sounds to me like you have an improperly tuned bow. Your broadheads should fly just fine at 50 yards, if they do at 20. What you are seeing is the imperfection being magnified with distance. All you have done is put a bandaid on a problem that should be properly fixed. You have done nothing but add weight and drag, when 3 offset blazers are more than enough to control that broadhead. You can start by paper tuning the bow, until you get a perfect bullet hole. When you have done this, try walk-back tuning your bow. This is the ultimate test for broadhead flight. Of course, also make sure your broadheads are perfectly square with the shaft, and the arrow doesnt wobble when you spin it. When you have a properly tuned bow, you shouldnt have any problems with and broadheads at any distance. Here is an awesome explanation of walk-back tuning. Read the post made by nuts&bolts.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=377004

If you have done all of this, and still experience problems, it is probably due to some hand torque. In this case, you need to work on your grip, and there are some great articles around that will help you out.
 

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i agree with shootbowtech. if everythink on your bow is tuned properly and in sync with eachother your arrow flight will not change at different yardages.(minus wind of course)

+ there aint nothin wrong with shootin/practicing at 50 yards. i myself practice up to and including 100 yards. if i had more sight adjustments i would practice past 100. i have also taken deer at 50 yards with my bow, because i do practice at those yardages and am very confident in my shooting. (eventhough i shoot decent groups at 100 yards i will not EVER try a shot at 100, i keep my hunting shots to less than 60 in optimal conditions)
 

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What glue did you use? Reason I ask is that I have used bhoning wraps in the past with blazer vanes and had the vanes pop off after a few shots. Attached to each vane was a section of the wrap. I used AAE fast set gel and it ate the wrap. I've heard of others having the same problem with those wraps and a few glues. Now all my wraps come from onestringer and I haven't had a vane come off yet.
 

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One of the guys on archerytalk that had the same problem used fletch tite. Keep an eye on the vanes, it isn't a problem with the glue sticking the vane to the arrow, it is a chemical reaction between the glue and wrap that causes the wrap to get brittle and pull off the shaft under the vane. It seems to be most common with fast set glues. I'll never buy those wraps again because I use fast set glue most of the time.
 

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I think it's cool. I always like to try new things. Heck if it makes his arrows shoot well at 50 then I bet at 20 they are flying like they came out of a rifled barrel.
 
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