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so i gave my sporterized mauser 98 a deep bore cleaning this morning...ive never got it THAT clean as i didnt know how to get a bore as clean as i can now...always took care of it and all my guns..but now know how to clean a bore to a CLEAN state and know what CLEAN actually is..


anyhow...i know atleast the last inch or 2 of the bore is pitted fairly significantly...

it never shot SUPER great..but i blamed the original military trigger and factory ammo on that..didnt shoot shotgun patterns but nothing amazing either..

anyways...IF it doesnt shoot upto what i want it to when i load for it, whats more cost effective??

having it rebored to a 338 or 35 cal of some sort??

or having a new barrel put on??

i'll be upfront..if a new barrel goes on it almost surely isnt gunna be a 3006..wont be anything smaller than a quarter bore...could do a 25-06 with no bolt face mods or anything? or 35 whelen..something in the 3006 family would be cheapest either way correct??


just looking for thoughts and info...i gotta find out IF it will shoot or not..my standards now that i hand load are a bit higher than most..out of a bolt gun, i wont settle for anything less than under an inch at 100yds..so if shes shooting 2 inchers or something i cant live with, then i will have it done..

just dont know which route i need to start thinking about...or what OTHER work comes along with it...like i said, almost 100% she wont be a 3006 when im done..no reason to dump money into it and keep it a 3006..i got a 308 and a 3006 of different model in the future..and hand load now so the sky is the limit..but dont wanna spend BIG money having major mods dont..so id think id be limited to 3006 cases?


thanx guys...im pretty bummed..its the first rifle i bought with my own money..i was 13! i mowed a couple blades of grass that summer...its got more sentimental value than the rest of the collection...other than my first 22 and single shot 20ga dad gave me so i could learn to hunt with..i plan to pass all 3 to my kids if i have any that take interest..but i dont want a gun that dont shoot..so its gunna be corrected..
 

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What about just having the barrel ,thats pitted,removed and recrowned? You can count on putting alot of money into it and finding it still will only shot 2 inch plus groups ! I've tried this ,over the years and wasted alot of money,to no avail! Why not just save it as a keep sake. Is it full military dress[all the wood and sights]?
 

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till you spend money for a rebore you would be farther ahead to rebarrel.i thing i would cut and recrown if the barrel looked good thru a borescope.
 

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Beboring saves on the bluing and sight installation. So for about $200 you would have a new interior.

Getting a new barrel means you must decide on how many$$$ you want to spend. You can probably get a lower cost barrel and installed for about $300, sights will cost you more to install. But barrels go up in quality and $$ to $900.

I'd never install a used barrel, wonder where it came from? Someone took it off; do you think they took of a 1/2 inch grouper?

This also depends upon what your want for this gun. Is it just for deer hunting? Does it have important memories to you?
 

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I never heard of a $900 barrel? Maybe after it's chambered, buying a muzzle break and having it installed you might get close to that.

Like Jim said, look through it with a bore scope, if only the last few inches are bad cut and recrown, $40 would take care of that. If you need a new barrel you can get any top of the line barrel for $300 to $400. Kreiger, Bartlien, Broughton and the list goes on. Chamber job form a good smith should run somewhere around $200. But now that you're looking at a new barrel you'll want to figure getting the action trued up, Lugs lapped and that list can go on for a while too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanx for the info guys....


Like I said, not sure it WON'T shoot as is...we'll find out and take it from there....

I got a lot of sentimental value to it....Its sporterized..new stock, bolt and saftey and tapped for scope...it kills deer...all day every day...I want my kids if I have any that will hunt, to kill deer with it....

So not sure what I will do if it don't shoot...but I'll cross that bridge if I need to and make my decision....one part says make it shoot...make it useful to me and the kids...the other part says it'll still kill deer...I know that...and if I rebarrel it, its not what it was when I bought it or carried it...she's retired to a back up rifle to me now anyways.....we'll see...got a buddy that offered to bore scope it for me if I find it don't shoot...then If only the end is bad, I can have it chopped and recrowned...as far as I can see with my eyes and a light, it looks like just the last inch or 2 is pitted...but hard to tell....

The barrel is original and seen battle time...I am certain the pitting ain't from me...I know that much for sure...
 

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You can do alot more than '06 based cases if you rebarrel.

I believe the 7x57 mauser family is the same head size, and they benefit from a long action if shooting long heavy bullets. 6mm Rem, 6mm AI, 257 Rob, 257 AI, 6.5x55 swede.

The 260 rem and 6.5x55 benefits because the bullets can be seated out further, allowing more slow burning powder.

If it were mine, I would be going 6mm AI, or 6.5x55 AI. If you want to still use your brass, than 25-06.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanx highcounty...i wasnt sure what all has the same case head...or what would work...


not sure which direction i'll go IF it wont shoot...i may just leave it alone...ive killed a pile of deer with it..if i have kids, they shouldnt have any troubles doing the same with it...might even leave the military trigger alone...cant appreciate a GOOD trigger till you get a rifle with a trigger like that...if you can shoot a rifle with a BAD trigger, a rifle with a nice trigger is a dream...
 

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I have a mauser 98 in a 8mm06 and almost had it rebarreled. Decided to leave it alone and just buy another gun. Glad I did for many reasons including sentimental reason - it was my dad's gun. I still get it out every once in while just to appreciate how nice the triggers are on my other guns.
 

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thanx for the reply jonsie...thats kinda what im thinking now..even if i find it doesnt wanna be a tack driver...

once the barrel is gone, or even chopped, it aint the same rifle i mowed all them lawns for...


lots of actions and beater guns to buy for an action to build off of in the future...

once i started spending money on a barrel etc i likely wouldnt have stopped...why spend a few hundred bucks on a barrel and chambering etc and stop there? might as well bed the action, after market trigger, etc etc to make SURE it will shoot...

i can do that with somethin else...not my mauser!
 

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I promise you - when one of your children shots a deer with it - it will bring a tear to your eye. Just knowing what that gun means to you, it's not worth changing it. Glad to be of help!
 

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IMO the trigger would probably be the biggest reason for not having the greatest of accuracy. If you don't want to spend the cash on an aftermarket trigger at least have a smith tune the factory one.

You could put the best barrel money could buy on that thing, and it still wouldn't shoot match grade groups with a crappy trigger.
 
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