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Discussion Starter #1
Why oh why, don't they (most if not all), muzzleloader manufacturers, use some sort of raised stamping on the flint jaws for a better grip of the flint holding choice, be it lead, leather, etc... It seems that I have to work and work at setting the flint (and holding component) just right to ensure proper frizzen connectivity, then lose the hold angle when I commence to cranking down on the screw. MANY times, if there is a slight "peak" in the flint where it meets the jaw, you can pretty much guarantee the flint will slide in the jaw grip with minimal pressure. Wouldn't a simple design of the jaw having some sort of raises bumps or teeth greatly reduce this from happening ?

RANT OFF.
 

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Hey, just letting you know that what you're asking for does, in fact, exist.


Heck, maybe you can order a top jaw from them if it'll fit on your existing lock?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, pick and choose wisely. I was/am worried more about length and width, than noticing a "peak" on the top/bottom surface.

Hmmmm, to that, I think I'll try and put the one's that are suspect in a vice, and work with a chisel. I gots nuttin to lose as they are worthless to me otherwise.
 

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Get a diamond wheel and a dust mask and knock those ridges off, go slow, or they heat up. You can make your own ridges with files, hacksaw dremel, heck why not try two pieces of floor grip, like for wet floors or skateboards.....
 

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How hard is the lock jaw steel? Just curious if maybe a punch would work? "Peen" some metal up by punching on a forward slant to raise some "teeth"?

Just a thought....
 

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If your flint has a hump on it may be the problem with it not clamping down tight,I use a diamond grinder wheel to take the hump off and it will set flat and tight in the jaw.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How hard is the lock jaw steel? Just curious if maybe a punch would work? "Peen" some metal up by punching on a forward slant to raise some "teeth"?
Thanks for the thought, but I certainly am not THAT ambitious. I'm thinkin I may be acting a bit CHEAP in trying to file off the flint "humps" instead of pitching them, and buying more fore a few bucks per.
I just think the manufacturers can help remedy "flint slip" or actually "flint holder slip", by simply adding some grip capability to the jaws.
 

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A suggestion I have seen that works well is cut two pieces of leather, or the one you are trying to use now in half, and glue them into the jaws. I know it [censored] to have a smooth jaw surface, but there are fixes.
 

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I've never had a problem with a smooth jaw surface. I find the flint that will work and really crank it down tight. I did have to on more than one occasion have to re-tighten my flint in the field after a shot. That was with a Lyman Deerstalker as well. It really wasn't that big of a deal though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The key is finding a "flint that works" bush. And you're right, in the grand scheme of things, not a biggie. I'll also add, I carry a small metal rod that actually slips through the hole of the jaw screw, to get a better crank, rather than use the screw slot on top to torque it down.

Rusty, I actually am using leather from a discarded ball mit right now, and find it a bit thick. I'm going to find some lighter thickness suede though. I think the suede will actually be more grippy than a smooth leather, and not as thick/rigid. That's my next quest prior to this weekend.
 
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