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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a new Z7 last week and absolutely love it. I shot 5 different bows and it definately stood above the rest. But anyways, I wanted to shoot a loop on this bow. I thought that it made alot of sense for a couple different reasons.

At the shop though I was talked out of it when I asked their opinion. So I just put knockin points on it, the bottom one is rubber.

Last night I was shooting and noticed that the rubber knocking point was already ripped pretty good. The shop put extras already on the string but is this going to happen constantly? I only have 150-200 arrows through the bow.

I don't know if just putting a regular metal knocking point underneath the knock too is a good thing to do since the bow is shorter and the angle of the string with the arrow is more extreme than a longer bow, making more of a pinch.

Anyone else have this problem?
 

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Q2- They are pretty simple to install yourself. I just started putting my own on this year. That way, if anything happens close to or in-season, its an easy fix instead of having to wait for a shop to open. I used to shoot with the rubber knock point, but wouldnt go back to it. And like MarkPSU said, saves the string and more.
 

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I just start put one on last month..My accuracy has improved and not to mention save wear on my string. I wish I. Would have done it sooner
 

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Are you nuts? Don't put a metal nock on the string. First of all, you lose a couple of fps for every couple of grains of weight.

As far as loop, it is a good idea, but then again, you are giving up speed because you are losing that little extra draw length. It is only advantageous if your DL is slightly longer than what is on your bow.

For your set-up, tie in string where the metal nocks would go. You get the benefit of having the longer draw length, and more speed because of less weight on the string. Hope that helps. If you have any questions, I can send you a pic of my set-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The metal knocking point was the route I didnt want to have to go but I didn't want to be wearing these rubber ones out so constantly. And yes I will lose a half inch on my DL with the loop but the bow fits me perfect right now so that is going to be an issue
 

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I'd suggest learning how to tie your own or have them install a string loop. I doubt you'll notice any decrease in speed by shortening your draw by 1/2" unless you actually shoot it through a chronograph. Even so, it won't be much and the trade-off for longer string life and greater accuracy & consistency is worth it.

Mark
 

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yea 1/2 should only be about 5 fps and that really isnt alot anyway shouldnt even notice the difference, but before u shorten ur draw add the loop then try it like that only thing the loop will actually do is change where ur release hand is, it doesnt add anything to ur draw length
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ya they are fixed but if you are a 28" draw and you want a loop, to keep your anchor point the same you get a 27.5" DL on the bow because the loop makes up for the half inch and keeps your anchor pt the same
 

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I started with a 28" DL with a Gold Tip XT Hunters with 100 gr. tip. Those numbers above were all used with the Gold Tips.

I am now a 27" DL shooting Carbon Impact 26" with 75 gr. tips. I am now getting 289 fps.
 

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If you are anchoring at full draw with the string on the tip of your nose and laying across the corner of your mouth and you add a loop you can try shortening your release barrel to make up the difference. The bow is still the same draw either way, just keep the string on the nose tip and corner of mouth. Adding the loop does not change the bow.
 
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