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Discussion Starter #1
In the middle of building a canoe paddle. I don't know why... just because.


Got cedar and pine strips from my uncle. nice clear stuff. Glued them together over the last couple of weeks. Some might have seen the post where i was looking for someone local with a wood shop to kiss everything off even.

Goatman came to the rescue on that one for me.

After a visit to him, I glued on a second level of wood due to the paddle being thin, and I had a glue connection (break) mid paddle portion where the short pieces went in.

So today was the day to start taking this thing down. The wood was high and low. Again. The pine was a lot thicker than the cedar... not sure if it was an oversight - or my dear ol" uncle still likes to see me work. I will get after him for the work version though..



So the first issue was where to do this at. i have no shop and the shed wasn't going to cut it. The saw horses have the canoe on them while I paint.


Adapt and overcome...




It isn't pretty, but it is fully functional. Made it out of left over lumber. When done, it will go to my sidewalk forms latter this summer.




The neighbor across the alley thought I was nuts - but he usually does. Though I was in the middle of "stressing" the bench out when he talked to me. The bigger issue was the heat of the day for him.

Not the best pic's:





You can see the lower portion of the paddle 3/4" cedar and pine. The top laminate is 1/2 cedar and 3/4' pine. Both sides...

First order of business was to reduce the center pine stripe so it was level. While I was at it, I decided to start reducing the mass and start beveling the reinforcement laminate on top in the paddle area.






















It is ugly - but it works and functions very well.





Started to lay the lines out to cut away the excess and transition from handle to paddle.


Both sides of paddle have the three main tapers started on both edges and the laminate point across the bottom. Also the handle is now flat across as the 1/2" of wood in the middle is gone.


The plan is to cut the handle to 2-1/4" then reduce it with a taper on both edges to a center point on the edge. Then sand smooth. This will reduce thickness, but let the strength of the laminate.

Plan on tapering the top side of the paddle to the rounded top edge as well. That will allow for the thickness of the handle to transition into the skinnier paddle area.

Time will tell.

Got a long weekend and a holiday coming up.
 

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You have made a good start and the paddle looks large enough to make almost any 'style' paddle blade. Good Start!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well had today to work on this. So off I went.

Cut the excess width off the handle. Planned the thickness down in the handle. Beveled the handle edges including flaring the paddle to handle portion.

Finally, cut the excess off the handle pommel and the excess off the bottom of paddle.



Still have the cross sectional of the pommel - will round out the edges on this.




Pommel both sides






Both sides full length





Handle paddle transition both sides






Still lots of sanding. I also have a long section of handle that the cedar is pithy - so will need to make some wood putty and fix.

Lots of sanding left. Need to get the pencil marks out... but they are covered with glue and becoming problematic as I am losing to much wood at the transition point. Better to call it a day and look with fresh eyes tomorrow.

Paddle is light. Pommel feels real nice as the hand has no edges to wrap the fingers around.

Forgot to measure it... comes to my nose though.
 

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Looking great!
How are you planning on finishing it, traditional paddles had the handle oiled and just the blade varnished. Works well on your hands but makes the patina stand out from the varnished blade.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Unknown at this ppoint. Guess I better start thinking about it.
 

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Bluetick said:
Unknown at this point. Guess I better start thinking about it.
I had 3 'featherlite' paddles, 2 w/ splits. since I was stripping the inside of the canoe, I stripped them amd glued up the splits. Since I was brushing boiled linseed onto the stripped cedar, I did the stripped paddles too. Sand real good first.

Later I coated the blades w/ Minwax Poly Spar varnish and left the rest alone after reading that is what the guides used to do. I really like the feel of just oiled wood as I paddle and the poly should keep be blades from splitting again for a long time.

Since you have a laminated handle you may want the protection of a poly on the handle too.

Either way you have a paddle to be proud of.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Minwax was at the top of my list. The boiled linseed oil is a good base. Brings ups the grain well.

I refinished several rifle stocks with the Minwax Spar finisha nd love the results. After last years very wet bear and deer seasons - it is the finish to use. Bare none.
 

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I used it inside my Old Town after I stripped the inside. The Wood 'N Canvas purists criticized me using a product that is hard to repair/remove in their minds but 11 years later it still gleams like the day I varnished it, under the dust...I have to get the bottom repainted...
 

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No more work on this? I'm not sure why I'm so interested but I am and every day you don't have a new post, I'm disappointed. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Three coats boiled linseed oil - and two coats of Minwax Spar finish - need to knock the top down a bit and put the last coat on.

Started another big project - and a bit consumed with moving dirt right now.

Will try to post a pic later this week.
 

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I wish I could do this kind of stuff...I tried woodworking once but ran out of cuss words and wood that was not now firewood.

My son and I are going to be making two tower stands soon, luckliy for those that use the stands, he does have a knack for it. Might have to put that project on here..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Took some quick pictures this evening before I started digging. Nothing fancy - just propped it up by the cement mixer and snapped a few - sun was a bit bright - but until i finish it up....







Flip side:








Note there are a few small knots in the cedar. These are in the top laminate strips. The strips under are crystal clear wood. Figured the knots would add a bit of character and not compromise the strength of the paddle.

Next step is to steel wool the entire paddle. Then a good coat applied with panty hose. Leaves no runs and puts the finish on light and even.

After that - finish the sidewalk project and get on the river!


Will try to post a picture of the canoe, carrier, and paddle later.
 
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