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Discussion Starter #1
I put an L&R RPL3 lock in my TC Renegade 2 years ago. Initially, I loved the thing. But within the first year, the frizzen pivot screw snapped twice! Then this spring I noticed the frizzen was loose, so I disassembled it and found the frizzen screw was bent! That was enough of that. Emailed L&R's customer service department and they said they were aware of the problem and I should mail it in for a repair/upgrade.
Long story short, I dropped it in the mail and received it back in under a week. Not only did they convert it to a new thicker frizzen screw, but also re-fit and polished the pan. Hard to find great customer service like that from a company that stands behind their product anymore. Just wanted to share my experience in case anyone was thinking of going with L&R.
 

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I have two L&R's. One on my pistol build and the other on my .54 Cal Leman build. They both work very well. It's an easy comparison if you shoot a F\L with an L&R vs a T\C lock. I also have a T\C Hawken (who doesn't or at least did at some point) and the quality of locks is easy to compare.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have two L&R's. One on my pistol build and the other on my .54 Cal Leman build. They both work very well. It's an easy comparison if you shoot a F\L with an L&R vs a T\C lock. I also have a T\C Hawken (who doesn't or at least did at some point) and the quality of locks is easy to compare.
Yes, I noticed a fairly significant difference in both speed and reliability. I also love the narrow, "sealed" pan on the L&R.
Also put a Davis trigger on this gun, but didn't really gain much by doing that.
A white lightening liner is about all I have left that I could upgrade but I'm hesitant to do that.
 

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A white lightening liner is about all I have left that I could upgrade but I'm hesitant to do that.
I think the only advantage the Chambers White Lightening liner provides would be if the pan powder flashes and the main charge doesn't go off. It's very rare that I have that condition.

FWIW
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have that liner in the gun now. Heard great things about the white lightening cause it puts the main charge as close to the pan as possible.
 

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I put an L&R RPL3 lock in my TC Renegade 2 years ago. Initially, I loved the thing. But within the first year, the frizzen pivot screw snapped twice! Then this spring I noticed the frizzen was loose, so I disassembled it and found the frizzen screw was bent! That was enough of that. Emailed L&R's customer service department and they said they were aware of the problem and I should mail it in for a repair/upgrade.
Long story short, I dropped it in the mail and received it back in under a week. Not only did they convert it to a new thicker frizzen screw, but also re-fit and polished the pan. Hard to find great customer service like that from a company that stands behind their product anymore. Just wanted to share my experience in case anyone was thinking of going with L&R.
Once you have an L&R you never look back!

My GPR factory lock acted like they used sandpaper as a lube, and the frizzen/pan was so bad I wasnt able to file enough off to mate the two.... Called Track of the Wolf and ordered an L&R.

Had a minor issue with flints breaking, and like you, turnaround was under a week!

After re-inletting to fit and adjust to allow the flash hole to be properly aligned it now goes off as fast as a caplock no matter how little or much 4f is in the pan.

I cant say enough good things about L&R Locks!
 

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Ditto

Once you have an L&R you never look back!

My GPR factory lock acted like they used sandpaper as a lube, and the frizzen/pan was so bad I wasnt able to file enough off to mate the two.... Called Track of the Wolf and ordered an L&R.

Had a minor issue with flints breaking, and like you, turnaround was under a week!

After re-inletting to fit and adjust to allow the flash hole to be properly aligned it now goes off as fast as a caplock no matter how little or much 4f is in the pan.

I cant say enough good things about L&R Locks!

Ditto, My Lyman GPR 1/66 twist 50cal never was as reliable. Great upgrade, it's got to spark to ignite. :wink2: CleoW
 

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re the touch hole liners: You want the main charge powder as close as possible to the pan. The venturi description is great, but is mostly hot air. When loaded, you should be able to see granules of powder up against the interior of the touch hole and that should be almost to the exterior of the barrel flat. When the prime ignites, you want the shortest distance possible to the charge powder. It is a bit like grenades. the further away from the blast, the less damage. Now to some folks 1/16th or 3/32 of an inch is not that much difference in distance. But in the time it takes and the certainty of ignition, the closer the better. By time we are talking thousandths of a second. it it takes an extra 20 or 30 thousandths of a second, most shooters cannot hear the difference. But unless you have rock solid still follow through, the gun starts moving slightly with hammer fall. the quicker the ignition the less movement. Accuracy for match shooters comes from removing as many variables as possible. Careful powder measurement, measuring each ball to cull out those with voids. turning the patch the same direction each time, using the same thickness patch, the same lube etc. Why would a shooter create more distance than necessary between the prime and the main charge powder to create space for ignition time differences and barrel movement, however slight?
 

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zimmerstutzen, while I dont see my ignition getting any faster than the L&R has managed to do, there is a certain amount of interest in your conviction that the White Lightning liners ability to move the main charge closer to the pan.

No matter the quality of the lock, a "flash in the pan" never escapes the thoughts when a deer is in the sights, and the trigger is being depressed. That flash hole liner is absolutely a great tool to enhance the overall reliability of even the most reliable flint lock.

"Hello, Track of the Wolf?":wink2:
 

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I have had L&R locks and they are as good as their reputation. There are a few custom locks out there that are even better. I had one of Curly Gostomski's locks on a trade gun he built. For a single trigger, it was very light, maybe 6 oz and the lock was incredibly fast for a large lock. But the geometry was so perfect, that the flints lasted for more then dozens of shots. I used the same flint for almost 7 years of small game hunting and some match shooting. Another flint lasted longer but I really did not keep track or use the gun as regularly then.
 

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Wow! Thats a whole bunch of shots! A lot to be said for quality equipment!

As soon as Im well enough to head back to the range Ill be setting up the Lyman replacement barrel from the recall, and Ill count the shots the flint is good for with the L&R. Dont expect to do as well as the custom lock you have.:surprise2:
 

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Curley died about 25 years ago. Lost the gun in a fire 4 years ago. Those who have guns built by Curley don't part with them, their estates do, and even then the kids don't realize what they have and sell it off as a musket. I keep looking.
 

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Thats too bad, it sounds like he was one of the greats, and most unfortunate that you had a fire, which is devastating in its own rite, but even more so to lose a flinter of that quality and nearly unreplaceable.
Good luck in finding another, not wishing anyone to move on, just when it might happen providence shine on you.
 

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Good to hear that L&R stands behind their locks. Only ever owned one L&R and it was a step-up from the Thompson Lock on my PA Hunter it replaced. Have since owned Silar and IMO they are a notch or 2 above L&R.
 
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