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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I gut/cut probably 4-5 Deer per year (not all mine). My knives lose their edge quite fast when butchering comes along. Now, here is my question.... and it may be a really dumb one, but here goes. I run chainsaws year-round. I am wondering if a saw file, to sharpen a chainsaw chain, would put a decent edge on a cutting knife if drawn across it ? I was thinking about trying it on some knives I don't care ll that much about to try it. First pass across a file, then hone it in with a steel ? What say you ?
 

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Well, in my mind, it's not ideal as it is round-faced, but it's still a file. It will remove metal on the angle you use it. A finer grit may be necessary afterwards before the steel to bring it down to a fine edge better/quicker,but should work so long as you keep it moving along the edge as you swipe.

Don't you have a flat file for your rakers??
 

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I use a Stihl flat file on my hatchet,axe, machete, and ofcourse my rakers Very good files and I clean them after every use with a file card...

I have used a file on extremely dull knives but then go to a stone for fine edge a file is going to leave the knife edge a little too rough! My $.02
 

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I get my knives super sharp but butchering dulls all of them real fast. So I keep the V sharpener close by. You wouldn't think flesh and fat would dull them so quick but barbers user leather to sharpen so I guess the opposite result happens.
 

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Check the angle of your blade edge. Some angles keep an edge far longer than other angles. Do a bit of research then reset the angle of your cutting edge as required.

I reset all my knife cutting edges to 20 degrees.
 

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Bluetick said:
Check the angle of your blade edge. Some angles keep an edge far longer than other angles. Do a bit of research then reset the angle of your cutting edge as required.

I reset all my knife cutting edges to 20 degrees.
Exactly, a good rule of thumb, the sharper the edge the quicker it will dull.
Your mediocre sharpness blades will last much longer than your surgical sharpness blades.
 

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Bluetick said:
Check the angle of your blade edge. Some angles keep an edge far longer than other angles. Do a bit of research then reset the angle of your cutting edge as required.

I reset all my knife cutting edges to 20 degrees.
+2 on this. I uses a Lansky sharpener and go wit 20 degrees on all my knives.
 

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palabman said:
I uses a Lansky sharpener and go wit 20 degrees on all my knives.
+1 on the Lansky. A good knife with good steel will hold the edge.
 

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Belt sander to put an edge on the knife, sharpening stone to sharpen the knife, and a steel to remove the burrs. That's how we did it when I cut meat in a supermarket, and it's still the way I do it today. Hold the knife at a 20 degree angle the whole time you are sharpening it.
 

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Fleroo said:
Nicky, I can see myself really flubbing up a knife on a belt sander.
Hold it tight, keep it at a 20 degree angle, and just get an edge on it. You don't want to wind up with a pig sticker or a jailhouse shank.
I wouldn't try this with a small knife, you might wind up sanding your fingers (been there, done that).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sanded fingers could come in handy.... depending on what one's occupation may be.
 

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I bought a work sharp made by drill doctor last fall, love it. Takes me about 3 minutes to put a razor edge on any knife. Haven't tried it on any of my axes or lawn mower blades but should work just as good . Basically its a small belt sander with different degree jigs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Really ? Got a link Coureur ? I liked Nicky's sanding suggestion, but know what I'd do to a perfectly serviceable knife without some sort of clamp/jig.
 
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