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Discussion Starter #1
Never shot a muzzleloader before but I know how they work I just don't know specifics on what I should use and all that. I bought a used cva .50 caliber flintlock. completely new to this so any information is great. Thanks!
 

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Decide if you wanna use real black powder or synthetic. I prefer real black powder in my flinters . Also you'll wanna try some diff loads. Def try a patched round ball, but give the power belts a try too. Make sure you have all the accessories, a powder measure, cleaning mag, ball pulled, solvents, lube such as Bore Butter, picks, patches, primer flask, speed loaders for charges, and of course a pack or possibles bag if you're going traditional. Most folks here are more than happy to help so ask lots of questions. Good luck and have fun!
 

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An enjoyable and informative outing to get you off on the right foot would be to visit Dixon's Muzzleloading Shop near Kempton, PA., in northeast Berks County. Take along your rifle, and Greg Dixon or his dad, Chuck, who is now retired, will spend as much time as needed to supply you with the essentials of feeding and cleaning the flintlock.

Welcome to this unique aspect of muzzleloading. You are in for quite a ride!
 

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I see you're from York. May also want to visit Cabin Creek Muzzleloading in Hallam. They are a high end custom flintlock rifle builder, but they can answer any questions you have and get you outfitted as well. Great guys and beautiful guns.
 

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Great advice.I would recommend to go all traditional with real black powder and patched round balls to learn and understand true flintlock mechanics.Then once you understand the fundlementals and get more comfortable then you can experiment with other methods.
 

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From York County, there is a muzzleloader club in SE york county, The Tomahawks, that meet just off Pickle Road a few miles from New Bridgeville, Their shoots are the third Sunday of the month, but they have a two day match coming up the third June 20, 21 & 22. It is a small friendly crowd and nearly anyone there will give you a hand.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Tomahawks-Black-Powder-Club/182993278389630
 

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What Zimmerstutzen said. Many of us will be there all weekend for the Rondy, and you are welcome to stop in any time. Lots of great folks, all who would love to help you get off to a great start. Hope to see you there!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for all the advice. I talked to a guy at basspro today and he told me with my gun I don't want to use roundball I want to use maxiballs or something like that. I bought some powder and other things but they didn't have the ammunition he told me to get. I'm not sure what model it is. All it says on the barrel is connecticut valley arms. black powder only. .50 cal. I think it's a Hawken. It has two triggers.
 

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The guy at Bass Pro is selling you something that makes profit for them but isn't necessarily right for your gun or your hunting. They will gladly sell you $300 worth of unnecessary crap.

For the time being just shoot .490 or .495 round balls, available anywhere and everywhere. More than adequate for Pa whitetail. "Some powder"? Was it at least real black powder? What primer powder do you have? 3f will work, 4f is faster but 4f is a major no-no for the barrel.

A CVA hawken would have a brass nose cap and brass patch box and only one barrel key. A CVA Mountain rifle has a german silver nose cap, a german silver patch box and two barrel keys. A frontier rifle has a german silver nose cap and only one barrel key. All were available in 50 cal flint and with DSTs. CVA had very accurate round ball rifling. They were not rifled for the fancy in-line bullets and will not shoot them very well.

Bare bones:

.490 round balls
.015 patches
charge powder (3f or 2f)
prime powder (3f or 4f)
powder measure
pan primer
ball starter
flints (English gray flints will probably work better than square cut flints)
a touch hole pick (paper clip will do)
powder flask or horn

There are a great many things that are nice to have when needed and a few that are almost never used that stores are always pushing off on folks.

Just a word of caution, do not under any circumstances attempt to remove the breech plug. You will ruin the gun. They are cross threaded with the touch hole liner and it is unnecessary to remove the breech plug except perhaps for a one in a million freak occurrence.
 

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charge powder (3f or 2f)
Not sure if you have a CVA Manual, so I'll add to that.... for safety. After you get your powder measurer, start your barrel charge at about 70-75 grains. See if you like how it shoots, if you want to increase a bit, try 80-85-90. No need to exceed 90, and most don't shoot 90 or more out of a 50 cal. These recommendations are for 2F charge powder. Retired Rusty tells me to lower the charge amounts by 15% accordingly if you choose to shoot 3F.... so start 3F around 65 grains or so.
 

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That is quite a load of FFFg for a .50 cal.! My son shoots 65 grains of FFFg in his .50 cal. flinter, and finds it to be more than adequate for whitetails. In my .54 cal., I'm quite satisfied with a charge of 85 grains of 3f.

To each his own, I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I hate to sound like an idiot but I'm not exactly sure what a patch box is. But if it's what I think it is, then my gun doesn't have one. Just a solid wood stock. Everything else is brass though. The guy at basspro said with my barrel twist I don't want to shoot round balls. But I don't even know what my barrel twist is on this gun so I don't know how he would have known that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just called CVA and the guy was very helpful. He said it sounds like I have a Hawken that someone might have replaced the stock on since it doesn't have the patch box and it's a 1:48 twist and I would be fine shooting the round balls. and I bought a pound of 2F and pound of 4F last night.
 

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frontier gander said:
my 50cal flinter likes 110gr 3f.
Have you ever read your patches?I doubt it cause they would vaporize.
I,d like to see you shoot over a nice covering of snow.I betcha a beer at the Boar,s Nest it would be black.
 
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