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Discussion Starter #1
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1382310&CAWELAID=344292287
I did some reading on the above epoxy had good reviews:I ran out of Micro-bed and only needed enough to glass bed the tang and about an 1" into the barrel.I also like the lock to sit tight to the stock and barrel .I seen a few stocks split if there is any gap between the lock and stock on flinters.I broke it out and the epoxy filled in nice.The tang sits super tight takes a little to remove it from the stock also remove about a 1/32" behind the tang to take up the heavy recoil to avoid to split the stock on recoil.
I can say this stuff works excellent.
 

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Help me understand this. You bedded the tang and the lock so they are tight? I understand the part about the lock needing to be a tight fit but I thought that the tang needed to have some play at the end of its inlet channel ( about 1/16 inch) and it is the the end of the breach plug that needs to be a tight fit against the stock to prevent splitting? I am about to take on a kit build and I would like to make sure I have this right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I find like on t/c stock the back face of the tang (hook Breech) seem to have a lot of clearance between the metal and wood.I like to fill that area with some glass .The renegade has 2 wood screws only that hold the tang into the inlet ted stock:I like a tight fit.
I know the newer t/c hawkens have a tang screw FRONT SCREW that goes threw the tang and tightens into the trigger guard
I use some heavy charges of BP with RB's like my 50 cal. I like 90 to 100 grains of 3F behind the patched RB.I also found that a lot of guys like to send the screw that holds the lock plate to the stock all the way home:T/C stocks have that weak point and I never over tighten the lock screw you will see a lot of t/c stocks split at the lock bushing side all because someone sent them home I only finger tight.
 
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