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this is my 4th are 5th year getting them from cliff at howard nursery, first couple years i was getting 1200 different trees from him, i cut it back last 2 years to about 300, i would say a good 80 percent made it, for sure, as long as you did your part, get them in ground within 7 days of getting them, keeping the roots wet, not letting wind get to them before you planted ,etc. last couple mornings been on cool side, they will perk back up for ya,
 

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In what ways do they look bad? I wouldn't expect to see any problems a few days after planting unless you let the roots dry out.

As for survival, I'd say 80% is normal in a year with decent rain. If it's on the dry side that percentage will come down drastically.
 

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I agree with the others; I have an approx. 80% survival rate from seedlings from Howard Nursery. Very important to follow the instructions that came with the seedlings as to keep roots from drying out, etc. I have been using Musser's Water Gel the last 3 yrs to dip the seedling roots in prior to planting and it seems to have increased the survival rate. Planted a lot of crabapples one year without tree tubes and they ended up being snack sticks for deer. Found out fast that it is better to plant less with quality using tubes, water gel, etc. then it is to plant a large quantity without protection.

I've been purchasing seedlings from Howard's Nursery the past five years and I am very pleased with the quality.

Give them some time and they may supprise you by leafing out.
 

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I put 100 in last weekend that I got from Howard Nurseries. I didn't use the tubes or water gel though. I opted for augering the hole, planting with a soil mix, triple 10 fert, weedbarrier, mulch, and fence inclosure. They're looking great.
 

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Crabapples are always one of the first to push bud. Ideally we would have the ability to lift them all while still fully dormant. Real world and especially this year going from winter right to July/August weather says that is not possible. Fortunately the crabapples are tough little buggers. A lot of the current leaf out will wither and even die back-but if we get sufficient rain they will bounce back and do fine-if the rabbits adn deer don't get them. We have coal companies that inevitably fail to plan and end up getting us to lift crabapple for them even in early-mid May and we still have good success.

Cliff
 

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bushmaster said:
I figured as much Dutch. It wasn't in the budget this year. I'll change them out as needed.
Bushmaster,

I'm not sure what your budget is or how many trees you planted but I used the protectors in the link below this year for shrubs that I got from Howard Nursery. You have to buy fairly large quantities but they were only $1 a piece including shipping. Much cheaper than fencing or the other tree tubes. I will be using these types on about everything I plant in the future as well.

As someone else stated I'm shooting quality over quantity. I've done the quantity thing and it works for some species but not for others.

http://www.benmeadows.com/search/protector/5638/
 

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bake545 said:
bushmaster said:
I figured as much Dutch. It wasn't in the budget this year. I'll change them out as needed.
Bushmaster,

I'm not sure what your budget is or how many trees you planted but I used the protectors in the link below this year for shrubs that I got from Howard Nursery. You have to buy fairly large quantities but they were only $1 a piece including shipping. Much cheaper than fencing or the other tree tubes. I will be using these types on about everything I plant in the future as well.

As someone else stated I'm shooting quality over quantity. I've done the quantity thing and it works for some species but not for others.

http://www.benmeadows.com/search/protector/5638/
I got $80.00 tied up in the fencing for 100 trees. They are 28" high and 1' wide. When the trees out grow them, I'll install a rigid stake and more fencing right on top. It's more permanent than the tubes, but more work than just sliding a tube over the top. I'm sure both methods will work just fine.
 
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