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I'm putting together a .243 savage for chuck hunting. Bought a thumbhole, and a heavy barrel is next. Been reading a little about bedding the barrel. Is it something a newbie can try, or do I risk screwing it up ? Any recommendations on twist rates for LONG range shots would be appreciated.
 

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For long range shots, you need heavy bullets, over 100 grains, and boat tail/VLD's as well, in a slow twist barrel. For instance, an 8 or 9 twist will handle 105-115 grain bullets. Discuss this with your gunsmith.

Do a google on glass bedding and you will find a ton of instructions. But it is not rocket science and can be completed nicely by a handy person. Just read the instructions twice and follow the steps exactly.
 

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It's not hard to glass bed. Just remember to use enough release on the metal so you don't glue the stock to the action.
 

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Magsav said:
It's not hard to glass bed. Just remember to use enough release on the metal so you don't glue the stock to the action.
Yep, biggest fear is locking the metal to the wood. If you follow the basic instructions(look them up online) you'll be fine.
 

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Sniper, a few things bedding a Savage.

First, there is little reason to bed them out past the recoil lug. In fact after doing the prep work and the action setting where I want it I'll pull the barrel and use this little "blank" I made up. Its .010" larger in diameter then the nut and barrel tenon. It saves me time taping the nut and gives me the clearances I want. The clearance is needed especially if your swapping barrels on occasion, they will vary thousandths in diameter.



Replace the factory recoil lug with a good flat aftermarket. Factory lugs are stamped, crooked and a dog's hind leg and vary in thickness top to bottom sometimes as much as .020". You can use any aftermarket lug for 700 Rem or Savage, same animal in what ever thickness you choose although I haven't seen any benefit of a .500" over a .250". Here again, if you swapping barrels occasionally I recommend adding a second pin in the top of recoil lug so it relocates EXACTLY in the same position in the bedding.

While you have it apart square the receiver face. Square it off the receiver barrel threads...NOT OFF THE BOLT RACE!

Second, allow the rear tang to "float" back past the rear action screw for a few reasons. Most shoot better, you have less prep time/work/cleanup and use less bedding "goop". On a Savage the rear tang past the rear screw just happens to be a good place to hang a trigger.

Bill
 
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