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Discussion Starter #1
ok looking to buy a Cabelas build it yourself flintlock 50 cal. and was wandering what types of powder to use what are good flints and what is a good patch size to use when loading have an inline but feel that this woould be a fun project

thanks in advance
 

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Goex ff and ffff
I sometimes use a roundball(Hornady)and a .15 pre-lubed patch.
If using sabots I shoot 250gr Shockwaves
I use German flints
 

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If you plan on using patch and ball and are building from a kit, make sure the bbl has the proper twist rate. I have a Firestorm and it has a 1-48 twist, kinda middle ground. I believe the larger the twist the better is is for patch and ball, but I could have it backwords
. Mine shoots balls okay, but maxi hunters and maxi balls the best, they give me a 3 inch group at 50 yards. I use 90 grains Goex FF down the tube and FFFF in the pan. As for the flints I use English flints (given to me by a friend and he said they are English, never purchsed any myself).

BTW, I started flintlock about 4 years ago, besides spring gobbler, its my favorite season to hunt!!!
 

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For flints, German cut agates are om for cheap case hardened frizzens, but English Grays in my opinion are the best for locks with good steel frizzens. French ambers are ok, but generally for larger musket locks.
 

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For flints, German cut agates are om for cheap case hardened frizzens, but English Grays in my opinion are the best for locks with good steel frizzens. French ambers are ok, but generally for larger musket locks.
 

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You did not ask this, but I am going to offer my thought anyhow. Use CRISCO as a lube and forget about that Ox-Yoke trash or any other commercial "lubes". Send me a PM and I will give you the run-down on how to pre lube you patches with CRISCO.
 

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Crisco is good along with olive oil,and lots of others as long as no salt or petrolium is in it.
Go with real Goex blaxckpowder.
Stick with patches in the range of .015-.020.The tighter patch will give a cleaner burn of powder in the barrel.
Try all the combos of powder size,amount,patches,and ball size.
 

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good info 410-er...thats why i switched my patch size from .10 to .15 because i had powder granuals left in the barrel after shots with the .10 patches
 

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Also I clean my flintlock with rubbing alcohol----NO SOLVENTS!!!!!!!!
Windex with vinegar works well also
Just a FYI

Dave
 

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DCabets28 said:
Also I clean my flintlock with rubbing alcohol----NO SOLVENTS!!!!!!!!
Windex with vinegar works well also
Just a FYI

Dave
Holy cow Dave!! I clean with the same stuff
At home and the range.
 

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I like the windex and vinegar as well---when I can sneak it from the kitchen that is!!
Loggy suggested this to me a few years back and it works pretty good.
 

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Ok DC CAbets alcohol is a solvent, same for vinegar and cola and numerous other substances.

I've never liked using anything I knew was acid or caustic in a barrel. Whether vinegar, windex, etc. Most experienced muzzleloaders advise against using lard or bacon grease for patch lube because of the salts causing rust, but they use equally corrosive solutions to clean the bore. I like plenty of plain old water, perhaps a drop or two of soap to act as a surfactant and emulsifier. Water has some unique chemical properties that permit it to neutralize both bases and acids. (I studied that in Oceanography years ago, and never did understand the explanation for it.) Depending on what patch lube you use, you may need something more than water to clean out the lube residue.
 

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I too like to pump water also.Thats how I clean the breech area that you can't get to with a reg jag unless you put a 30cal brush on.Like to swirel the water in my bucket then I know I have the breech good and cleaned out.When I store them they get a coating of Olive oil on the inside.One of the BEST rust preventers.
 

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Zimm
I didn't know I would be critqued by the in-house Chemist

What I meant was no GUN CLEANING SOLVENTS!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for making me clarify my statement.

Dave
 

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Didn't mean it as a critique, sorry. I once used some Pyrodex and found it horribly corrosive. still have 2/3 of a pound in the original container. I stick to holy black and generally Goex. In really dry weather, which is rare here in the east, the fouling is hard and can be difficult to wet with plain water. ie water just beads off instead of soaking in. Hence the few drops of soap as a wetting agent.

I do use a solvent to clean my Black powder cartridge guns, but that is also to help dissolve the microcrystaline wax lube I use on the lead bullets.
 

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I use Goex 3F. You should find an accurate load between 70gr. and 90gr. No need for more. As far as patches you want to try different thicknesses with different loads til you find what your rifle likes best. Just like different ammo for centerfires.

Flints don't effect the POI as much. I like German flints but find English greys easier to find. Both last longer than French flints and shower sparks better than American and man made flints.
 

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Zimm
No harm I was just kidding................I am open to all blackpowder info!!!!

Dave
 

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I'm with Zimm.Those subs need to be cleaned then recleaned after a couple days.Much more corrosive than blackpowder.They also need a hotter fire to ignite them.Blackpowder has a flashpoint around 300 degrees and the subs are 700 with some more.That why they don't work well in a flinter.
 
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