I am far from a professional, but have planted some pears and they've been successful so far (not fruiting yet).
Some others mentioned site selection for ample sunlight; I would add to consider the likelihood of frost being an issue at your chosen site. We want to avoid "frost pockets" so that we are not as prone to loss of an entire year's crop via a late frost. A good portion of my property is down in a Kentucky "holler", and my cabin is near the lowest part. It is very common on calm cold winter mornings for the temperature on the porch to be four to six degrees cooler than "up top".
My trees have all been bare roots, planted in the spring. I'm sure that most of my method is common sense, but in case it helps:
I dig a hole that is large enough that none of the roots have to be bent or turned in order to fit in the hole. If the tree comes to me with one root that is extra long for some reason, I prune it to a more practical length.
If you have soil that dries out quickly (sandy, shale, gravel, whatever) and you are planting where you may not be able to water regularly the first year, you may want to use some WaterSorb polymer crystals in the hole. If you are not familiar with them, they come as very small particles (powder), and you mix a very small quantity of them into a large bucket of water. After letting the bucket sit a few minutes, the crystals will have absorbed water and swelled so that they are now kind of like small tapioca beads. I often dip the roots of the tree into this bucket immediately before placing the tree into the hole. Some polymer beads will cling to the roots; I also typically pour some of that water into the hole with the tree before beginning to backfill. The idea is to get these crystals distributed through the ground around your tree's roots. The polymer absorbs water when plenty is available, then is slower to release it than your surrounding soil, so during dry spells that stored moisture becomes available to your tree.
Whether I am using WaterSorb or not, when I set the bareroot tree in the hole, I dump half a gallon or so (depending on tree size) of water into the hole, then begin backfilling around the roots, being careful not to get roots twisted up, etc. I have heavy clay, so my backfill material tends to be in clumps; when the hole is mostly filled, but no tamping has been done (other than pressure with my hands), I dump another shot of water around the tree, to help wash any fines into larger voids. Then I'll add the last of the backfill material and press down with my hands, leaning into it, but not "beating" the backfill in place. I may step repeatedly around the base of the tree to be sure I don't have air pockets, but I don't stomp or otherwise heavily tamp the fill. Then I water again, making sure things are pretty well soaked.
Next I take a piece of landscape fabric about 3' square, cut a slit from one side to the middle, and lay it around the tree. I usually tuck the corners under so that I have a crude circle that is roughly 36" in diameter.
Then I take a piece of aluminum window screen, 12" or 18" x maybe 8", and bend it around the tree trunk. I lay the edges together and staple them together. Then I press the lower edge of this into the soil at the tree's base (depends on the tree, but I try to get an inch or so into the dirt). This keeps mice and rabbits from girdling the tree.
After the screen is in place, I cover the landscape fabric with 2" to 3" of clean gravel (clean meaning it is all similar sized particles, without a lot of fines in it). I get the inexpensive river gravel landscaping stone in small bags from Lowes (or wherever is handy and cheap). For me, one of those bags typically is enough for one tree, plus maybe 1/4 of the next one.
Finally, I stake a wire cage around the tree. I have used as low as 4' tall cages and as tall as 6' tall. Both work, I just try to make my cage diameter a bit bigger when using 4', since I know that deer can reach over the top of them along the perimeter. (But my goal is mainly to protect the central leader, since I would eventually lose lower branches anyway.) I have staked cages with whatever is available, but the best has been 1/2" metal conduit (or T posts, if you happen to have them anyway, but they get costly if using a bunch).
Because I live a long way from my property, my trees never get watered except via the weather, so from this point, the only attention or special treatment my trees get is cage maintenance, removal of vines if they start to press in, and occasional spraying around the edges of the stone/fabric to hold back the weeds a bit.
Here is a 2014 Olympic pear from Cummins Nursery.
Planting day, 4/5/2014.
I did not have the fabric and stone with me, so I came back two weeks later and added that. The cage is 6' tall.
Same tree, 5/2/2015
A couple of pics of the tree on 4/18/2016, with first blooms (didn't pollinate, as this is the only pear I have that has bloomed yet).
And, this is the 3rd (leap) year, so things are beginning to take off. This pic was taken about six weeks after the last two pics.