[Laurel Ridge Top]

I have a 50 cal CVA Silver Hunter flint lock that I bought a couple years ago and never shot. I have no flint lock experience and I wanted to try it out for the late season. I understand the basics, but I was curious what essential gear I need to get started. Powder(type)? Suggestions on Ball type? wads? Do you always have to shot the gun to unload it at the end of the day? Safety issues?

I apologize for the dumb questions, but your help will be appreciated.

 

[DaveT]

It would be good to know the barrel twist of that model. If it's a 1-48 or a 1-60 it will be fine for shooting round ball. If it's a faster 1-28 or so, a conical would be better. If you don't know you can run a tight patch down the barrel and just measure how many inches it takes for the rod to make one complete revolution. (or make one-half a revolution....then multiply by 2).

Powder: Barrel--Goex 2F
Frizzen Powder (Pan powder): Goex 4F
Round Balls: Hornady .490
Patchs: T\C .015 Pillow Ticking
Lube: T\C Bore butter
Flints: Have a few extras of whatever works
Frizzen: I always have an extra one or two with me during the season.

Other "stuff": Ball starter, Alcohol patches, pan powder measure, powder measure for barrel.

Prep: Get to a range as many times as you can so you can put 4 or 5 shots in a 6" pie plate at 50 yards.

Dave

 

[Laurel Ridge Top]

Thank you for your help. I will let you know how it turns out.

 

[verminator]

Agree with DaveT 100% The only thing I do different is I use FFF in the bbl. Till you get used to this stick with FF . Your hooked now

 

[Jester]

No questions are dumb.....unless I'm asking them.

No need to unload every day if you are keeping it dry. Guys here will recommend a co2 disharger that makes unloading quiet and simple. I'm cheap and use my air compressor in the garage. Wrap a rag around the muzzle, point in safe direction and put it through the touch hole AFTER removing the liner. The rag is important!! I sent a 245 PB 20' through the garage, off the door and back past my noggin.

Have not forgotten that rag since!

My best safety advice is....even if you remove all traces of powder from the pan it MAY STILL FIRE if you cock and pull the trigger. If I am having a spark issue (flint replacement etc.) I take the time to remove the barrel and do what needs done without the barrel anywhere near the lock. Discoverd this tip when my son was checking for spark one evening after hunting. Thank goodness he had done what he had been taught and had the weapon pointed in a safe direction when it touched off. Since then I have tried it numerous times and about 1 in 10 times it goes BOOM.

Good luck and welcome to the group!!

 

[Laurel Ridge Top]

Great info - Thank you.

What about cleaning? How often and any advice to make it easier?

 

[Jester]

Evrey one has thier own ideas on this so this is what I do...I clean everyday that I shoot the gun. Since I use 777 it does make it much easier to get it clean quickly. The guys here has lots of great suggestions when it comes to cleaning as far as what to use etc. also. If is is a rainy day and the gun has gotten wet....I unload it and clean it that night. I am absolutely insane about preventing rust!

I use TC13. I use a variety of gadgets to get the breech area as clean as possible. Fouling scraper, dental picks and even an old bore brush with a patch wrapped around it. If I do get any rust in the bore I use superfine steelwool (0000 is think) around a jag and I have also used the rust removing cloths by Birchwood Casey.

I use Wonderlube on all exterior surfaces and down the bore. It is a trade name product packaged by several brands including Traditions. I buy the can of lube itself and not the pre lubed patches but they work just as well. ( I am goofy and cut and lube all my patches myself).

Now, if you are using black powder the whole situation changes. When I used it I preferred Dawn dsihwashing liquid and super hot water in a bucket. Remove the touch hole and put that end in the bucket. Dump some Dawn down the barrel and scrub with a bore brush. After rinse with super hot water and get it dry as quickly as possible and then lube it all up. Some guys clean the lock itself in the same manner.

I use TC grease in the tube for all the moving lock parts and on and screws, touch hole liners that I want to be able to remove some day.

This is waht has worked for me and as my wife would tell you...I am obsessive about keeping the flinter clean and rust free. It has worked for me over the years and since I became so obsessive I have not had a misfire or any other issues where the gun has not fired when it was triggered.

You are on the right track asking here. The guys are great and have tons of info. Try some and take what works and what ya like and make it your own!! Good Luck!!

BTW: great thread on the traditional site with tips of all kinds!