I only have one reservation doing it. That is, I "dished out" my touchhole screw a tad on a drillpress, in order to better funnel the ignition flame into the barrel. Of course this also enlarged the touchhole itself, and my guess is that the fine FFFF powder will sift out some, and into the pan. This may cause a small void in the charge, causing me to repack with the rod periodically.
If you have a proper touch hole and flash channel behind it, there is positively no need for any 4fg with 2 fg in the main charge. The idea of the liner is to let a bit of the main charge work back the flash channel and be exposed in the touch hole and next to the flash pan. There shouldn't be any funneling of the flash. a few grains of the main charge should be right there within a millimeter of the barrel flat and just above the bottom of the flash pan.
i put about 15 -20 grs of 3f down the barrle and shoot it off we call this seasoning the barrel this ensures that any oil left in the barrel is gone and plus every gun shoots different with a clean barrel so i allways season frist that way my frist and second shot are together
Agreed! I don't think flinters pay enough attention to the touch hole. You can have the best, most efficient lock on the market, but if your touch hole isn't totally clear of crud when you pull the trigger, you will experience a mis- fire, a hang fire, or a flash-in-the-pan.
With a 12" piece of rawhide, attach a brass wire touch hole pick of "slightly" smaller diameter to one end, and the other end attached with a loop to the front of your trigger guard. USE THIS PICK WITH EVERY SHOT!!!
I use FFFg with all my flintlocks, .36 cal. to .58 cal., because I'm cheap! I use FFFFg to prime all these weapons because it works effectively! If I had to spend the extra effort to drop some FFFFg under my charge of FFFg, I'd probably go back to centerfires!
A well tuned flintlock, a sharp flint of quality, a degreased flint edge and frizzen with an alcohol patch, a meager priming powder charge, and a totally cleared touch hole to the main powder charge, provides an instantaneous, flinchless explosion.
This is the beauty of flintlocks. If the shooter adheres to each step needed by the rifle to provide immediate response, there is seldom or never a malfunction.
With flintlocks, one must remember, the action is on the outside of the rifle, the powder charge and patched round ball are inside the barrel. The channel between the two must be absolutely clear of crud! The lock, flint, and frizzen must be clear of burnt powder, and oilyness, and the priming powder must be dry and away from the touch hole.
Only the shooter can control all these factors before pulling the trigger, and if a malfunction occurs, the shooter must look no further than him/herself as the cause.
Enjoy the up-coming season, but be totally prepared before pulling the trigger.
I use 2F and 4F and a maxiball on my 54cal. I found that Maxi's group better than the traditional roundballs. Never use any tool to open up the touch hole and always use a good TC flint. I learned that filling the pan isnt necessary and fill it half way. It goes off without any issues.
If someone suggests that i clear out the touch hole, I would appreciate understanding it better as I thought even if the powder in the barrel is sticking in the touch hole, it will still be ignited.
This comes up just about every year on here. It is very dangerous to use 4f down the barrel under any circumstances. The granulation of this powder is fine and is designed only as an ignition powder outside the barrel. Using 4f with pyrodex is an extremely bad idea in my opinion. You would most likely be exceeding the pressures recommended from the manufacturer of your gun and you are mixing blackpowder with a substitute propellant which is never recommended by any gun or powder manufacturer. I can speak from experience that 4f down the barrel can stress and even blow-up a barrel. Your fun is not worth your life or a buddies life at the range. Enough preaching from me