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How do you mount your English Flints?
Bevel up or bevel down?
Flat side up or flat side down?
This would be on a Lyman Deerstalker.

I have been using cut agates and they go bevel down.

Also what is the best size 5/8 x 3/4 or 3/4 x7/8.
 

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All my production guns like the long side top but my custom likes long side down.Flint of 5/8 x 3/4.
 

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Usually, the size of the flint is dictated by the lock size. Most of the larger locks require a flint of at least 3/4 inch. 5/8ths flints are normally used on those dinky Traditions locks or on the small handgun locks. Larger flint such as 7/8ths and up are used on the big locks such as on a Brown Bess, etc. I've got 3/4x3/4 flints on my two kit guns, although the Queen Anne lock on my .62 cal smooth bore could probably benefit from a 7/8ths sized flint, as the lock is pretty big. I may try them.

As to bevel up or down, try this. Mount the flint in the jaws of the cock, then lower the cock into the pan as if the gun's just been fired. Take note of where the edge of the flint pointing. In other words, lay the gun with the lock facing up, and look at the touch hole. The edge of the flint should be almost right in line with the touch hole. If its off, you'll notice, then turn the flint over and try again. You're trying to get the shower of sparks to fall as close to the center where the touch hole is, if I'm explaining this right. This helps with ignition timing and to get the most out of the spark/priming charge.
 

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How do you mount your English Flints?
Bevel up or bevel down?
Flat side up or flat side down?
This would be on a Lyman Deerstalker.

I have been using cut agates and they go bevel down.

Also what is the best size 5/8 x 3/4 or 3/4 x7/8.

worked on one of those today for a guy. 5/8x3/4 bevel down. hardened the frizzen, smoothed up the frizzen spring, took a little material off the frizzen contact point at the spring and cut a new piece of leather for it. boy what a mess that thing was! that thing would have never fired!
 

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Well, the other way to approach this is that you have exactly two choices. Try them and see how it goes!

For English flints, I think they look odd with the flat side up and bevel on the bottom, but that's just me.

I've heard compelling arguments for both ways of mounting a flint. End result----try both and see what works best for you.

As for flint sizes, I can't imagine a production gun like that taking a 7/8 flint. That's what I put in my big "Colonial" lock from Davis that's on my 62. They're BIG flints, and I'm certain they'd mar the barrel on a production gun. You want a flint that will span the width, or just a hair less, of your frizzen and not contact your barrel/pan when the cock is all the way forward/down.
 

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"smoothed up the frizzen spring"


How did you smooth up the spring ? I know mine is a bit tight, and I'm afraid to try and get a bit more play by squeezing the spring a bit more with vise grips.
 

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As for flints up or down, I was always schooled that you want the flint to strike the frizzen near abouts 2/3 of the way up ? That said, you will see which way gives you that contact point.
 

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Generally you want to have it hitting as high as possible on the frizzen but make sure it doesn't bottom out on the flash pan, that will splinter your flint . I have no issues with the slant UP and the flat leading edge down on my Renegade
 

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"smoothed up the frizzen spring"


How did you smooth up the spring ? I know mine is a bit tight, and I'm afraid to try and get a bit more play by squeezing the spring a bit more with vise grips.

don't squeeze the spring, because it will break! you can take material off of the part of the frizzen that rides on the spring with a dremel, grinder or belt sander( just remember it is rounded not flat). same with the top of the spring. they are both hardend , so don't get them hot and they are hard enough you can't file them. sand paper or a sharpening stone will work also. take a little at a time, so as you get the frizzen to spring open easier and smoother. the lock is the "heart of the beast" and fine tuning/polishing every moving part will give you a faster and more reliable working lock. there probably is a video on youtube(there is) that would help you if you aren't familiar with taking one apart.
 

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Bevel down in my Firestorm and mine strikes about 3/4 the way up the frizzen. No gouging and long flint life. I use a diamond dremel tool to make a nice flat spot on flints that are a little off kilter. I also use a lead holder vice leather. I get reliable ignition and lots of sparks. I did upgrade to a Lyman frizzen.
 

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The lyman frizzen I got last year is loose on the lock when installed and in the open position on my Renegade.When they cut these to fit the lock did they cut it too much?Is better loose.If I loosen the screw for it slightly it actually made it alittle tighter when open.
 

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The lyman frizzen I got last year is loose on the lock when installed and in the open position on my Renegade.When they cut these to fit the lock did they cut it too much?Is better loose.If I loosen the screw for it slightly it actually made it alittle tighter when open.
As long as it is not loose enough to rebound closed after it pops open, it is not an issue. As long as the sparks fly and ignite as it is supposed to, and stays open after, a screw a bit loose is not a problem.
 

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I have a snuff can full of English flints and mostly install them long side down in my T/C Hawkins. I try different one's and see which one sparks the best. I think I need to replace my frizzen because I don't seem to be getting a good spark and it cost me a deer yesterday. I bought that T/C in the late 70's new and it's the original frizzen, I need to do a little work to get a better spark.
 

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I have a snuff can full of English flints and mostly install them long side down in my T/C Hawkins. I try different one's and see which one sparks the best. I think I need to replace my frizzen because I don't seem to be getting a good spark and it cost me a deer yesterday. I bought that T/C in the late 70's new and it's the original frizzen, I need to do a little work to get a better spark.



hit it with some 80 grit sandpaper... smooth it out, shine up the bare metal take off all the hardening color make flint is adjusted to hit middle of frizzen but no to bottom out on pan
 

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hit it with some 80 grit sandpaper... smooth it out, shine up the bare metal take off all the hardening color make flint is adjusted to hit middle of frizzen but no to bottom out on pan
Thanks NiceRack, The old girl just doesn't have the spark she used to and it's time for some rework or replacement.
 
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