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Discussion Starter #1
To all who have advice or an opinion-

I recently bought a Elite E32 and was doing some research on some Easton FMJ's... There were/are a ton of great reviews about how hard FMJ's hit hard and have great penetration and that is something that has really drawn me towards them. I then bought said arrow in 340. My draw length is 28" (plus D loop=28.5)and have the bow maxed out(70 lb limbs)and had my arrows cut at just a hair over 27". Am I ok with these arrows or should I use the 400's due to less GPI? I'm asking this question because when I took it to the bow shop the bow tech there was asking me why I bought 340's. He shoots an RPM360 so I'm not sure if he is just all about speed... Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to comment here or PM me. Thanks-Ryan
 

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I shoot a Bowtech Captain (dual cam) at 62-63lbs, and found 400's to be weak-spined for my bow. I replaced them with 340's and life was much better. I have them cut around 28-28.5" with a 29" draw(also using a loop).

One suggestion- don't get set on keeping those limbs maxed out. Be willing to change your poundage, as bows will often shoot better at other settings. My bowtech is a 60-70lb rating, maxes at a measured 65-66lbs in reality, and shoots well about right in the middle on the limb bolts. Lower is ok, higher is doable, but I have it set where it gave the best results.

I paper-tuned my FMJ's to bullet holes. Then I tuned the bow so bare shafts hit with fletched out to 30 yards. Then I broadhead tuned with a fixed blade (muzzy) till broadheads hit with target points to 40 or 50 (forget where I stopped, but usually by 50 the broadheads start showing a little more drop). Sounds like more work than it really was, as each tune gave it just a little more precise tuning, rather than restarting each time. The paper tune got things pretty close. The bare-shaft tune refined it, and the broadhead tuned completed it.

I love my FMJ's. I've killed two deer with them, and neither seemed to offer substantial resistance when the FMJ/Muzzy arrived on target!


My suggestion- stick with the 340's.

The way I determined that 400's were weak spined in my setup is that I backed out the limbs as far as I felt comfortable doing, and the tune issues I was having diminished greatly. I got the 340's and started putting poundage back on the bow, and presto! They worked like a charm.

At least with my bow, I've found on Easton and Victory shafts that I need to go one spine stiffer than the charts suggest.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TDD- Thank you so much for your educational post! I'll be going to the shop today to tune it. Are you using 100 gr BH's or 125? Thanks!!
 

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100's. I tuned it using Muzzy 100gr 3-blade....you know, the ones lots of guys say won't shoot with field points? LOL

I shot two 100"-110" bucks with that setup. Both at about 30 yards. Both clean pass-throughs with heart shots.

This year I'm using Rage Hypodermics. Has not one thing to do with accuracy or tuning, I just wanted to give those broadheads a try.
 

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Just be aware, if you go to 125's, you'll REALLY want to stay with the 340's, as I can't imagine the 400's will have the spine for a heavier point.

I haven't chronoed my bow as it's set now, but I did when I ran all carbon shafts, and I was getting 280fps. The trajectory changed a fair bit with the FMJ's (more drop), so I'd GUESS I'm getting in the neighborhood of 240-250fps. Not fast at all, but so so so quiet, and thumps the snot out of the target on arrival. I believe they weigh in just north of 400gr when ready to shoot, but that's off a very vague memory of when I weighed them, lol.

I'm in the camp of making a bow quiet and providing deep penetration before worrying about speed, though, so my tastes are somewhat different than some others.
 

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I shoot 340's out of my 70# Prime Alloy. I like the FMJ's a lot. I have bent and broken quite a few in the last couple of months so just be cautious. They are not the most durable arrow. The ease of pull out of targets is very nice.
 
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