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Discussion Starter #1
I do most of my house remodeling and am average with my skills. I just finishing hanging some drywall and got some odd 45 inside angles to fill in. anyone got any suggestions on tape like the strait flex or other tapes vs actual corner beads? we are gonna put trim up anyway but i dont want gaps behind it should i just mud the cracks up and trim it or double up with tape and trim? Thanks
 

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Finishing drywall is the one thing I hate the most in a remod. If you are going over it with wood trim, I would still tape it. When I am going to cover my lousy joints tape work with wood, I use the mesh tape. I think its much easier for a low/no skilled finisher. I know the guys who know how hate that mesh tape, but I could never make the paper tape work for anything but a straight run. Ones things for certain, if you don't tape it, it will crack.
( Don't ask me how I know ! )
 

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Mesh tape is a pain to use on angles, but I like it on flats because it saves a step. If you are set on taping before trim, I'd use paper tape on the inside angles and strait flex on the outside.
 

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The "No Coat" brand trim acessories work well for quality control with preventing cracks. Haven't used corner bead in over 10 years because of the hairline crack issues. Just fit which ever product you choose and mud in as usual. I prefer 10' lengths over the rolls that you can buy in a box.
 

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mattysloane said:
The "No Coat" brand trim acessories work well for quality control with preventing cracks. Haven't used corner bead in over 10 years because of the hairline crack issues. Just fit which ever product you choose and mud in as usual. I prefer 10' lengths over the rolls that you can buy in a box.
Good advice
 

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I use the mesh tape especially doing inside cornors on old houses. The mesh will conform to whatever angle the cornor might be easier then paper or pre-formed strips.
I use the ultralight joint compound and do not have issues with cracking/shrinkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
my plan is to just tape all the flat sectionsusing regular tape. its the inside 45 from wall to 45 and 45 to ceiling that has me wondering. it seems like most say no coat is better than strait flex but at 45 bucks a 100 ftto $20 just to trim over seems silly. i prob have total of 55 ft of 45 angles to cover. thanks for all the opinions, whatever i do its gonna be better than the old wooden paneling that was there before!
 

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If you're going to trim over it and have gaps to start with just mix up some easy sand 45 or other speed set (durabond or any other similiar product avaliable to you), start with a good solid base and tape as usual. Nothing in the industry commercial or residential gets more than the tape coat if something else is going over it. Good luck.
 

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Call me old fashioned but I still use the old paper tape for everything. Fold your tape in half in as long of sections as you can handle....mud both sides of your joint....press your tape in as flat as you can then trowel out both sides with a good taping knife. Put it on and get away from it.
 

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I just use regular lightweight mud and paper tape for the 45's. If i'm in a bit of a time constraint, I'll run 45 or 90 minute mud depending on humidity.

I like the paper tape on everything but the cup seams....the mesh saves a little time there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
how much do you think it would cost to have a room drywalled 12x13 walls and 6x12 ceiling...im trying to remind myself how much i saved by doing this myself. I got 5 small pieces to finish t row and its all hung..time to mud mud mud...
 

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not sure what the industry rates/bdft are today but if you screw your ceilings up 1/2/2/1 pattern and use glue and then the standard 4 nails across for walls your quality will be a head of the game and that should be peace of mind. In SEPA I couldnt tell you of any American outfits other than in the city and union, everything else is done by Mexicans, their way and with what they have on hand. Price wise its hard to compete, again you will surely have given yourself a better quality hang job. Two, most regular issues that I see homeowners (DIY) make is that they always coat with too much mud and never retrieve it or they play too much looking for instant perfection. Standard is 3 coats and I've seen some do 4, use them and I'm sure you'll be good!
 

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Last summer I didn’t want to deal with the mess or time and my wife wanted new ceilings with can lights and speakers in the living room and dining room area.
I had a contractor come in and tear out the old, I ran the wire and hung the cans then the contractor came back and hung, taped and sanded and primed the ceiling. For the hanging, taping, sanding and priming he was $100.00 a board plus material.
They spent 3 days there from 08:00 to 14:00 and the house was still livable while they worked when we came home in the evening.
 

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measure up 1'' strike a light blue chalk line run your paper tape, and hold one side on that chalk line. use a light base coat. if your board is back cut properly you should have no trouble using paper tape. it makes a nice clean looking corner should you ever want to pull that trim off. DO NOT TAPE WITH any speed set unless you use mesh.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone, the final sand is coming t row, and looking pretty good. I used strait flex on the 45 and inside 90 and really like it..it seems like good stuff, easy to work with and mesh tape on the flat seams..one reminder...never forget to turn the furnace off before sanding...ooops
 

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Best advice I can give is to switch to plaster. A two coat plaster is easy to make look good, not much more expensive,much less likely to get holes put in it, and best of all no sanding. Finishing you can make smooth or many textured options.

n a remodel situation the idea of doing a wall in one day and no dust is hard to best.
 
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