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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hunted with a guy one time that kept his dog at his feet in his layout blind with him. To this point I have hunted with mine at my side in his own blind but he started getting excited and yipping and/it creeping his head out and flaring birds. What can I do to stop this, the shock collar hasn't helped. I grabbed his muzzle and corrected him as well. I was thinking of trying a blind with a zipper at the bottom like a finisher so I could keep him at my feet and correct him with a smack on the rump. Thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated since I know many of you know more than me about dog training! Anyone have a finisher they want to part with?
 

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be careful, a dog in the blind can accidentally get shot.

work on it in the offseason. tie him with a leash attached to the blind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I actually have him tethered off with a 2 ft leash and he does great until we get large groups of geese in close and they start honking He gets all jacked up. The problem is its hard to replicate in training to work with him
 

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I won't even take my dog into a field to hunt geese anymore for this reason. He is unbearable. If you don't fix it now, it will get worse.......A LOT worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is what I am afraid of...he did better last year as a 1 year old and has slowly gotten more and more excited and I am getting fed up with it
 

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I know what you mean & your fears are warranted. I haven't had the time/desire/dedication the last few years to try to train this out of him. My biggest issue is the same as yours. It's almost impossible to replicate in the off season in a training scenario.
 

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i found my girl gets worked up but usually after the 1st flock, she settles down. get a few pigeons and work on it in the backyard.
 

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Zdawg, You need to develop a standard and enforce that standard wether you are hunting or training.

Setting up a training scenario where he performs the non desired actions (whining/creeping) and developing the standard for the desired action & correction for the non desired action is the way to fix issues like this.

Once he understands the standard, it can be enforced while hunting.

Do you have a buddy that can help you train? I'd set up a normal hunting scenario with your decoys, layouts, dog blind, guns with popper loads and calls. Have your friend hidden with bumpers, dead birds, live birds, a primer pistol, and a gun with poppers and live loads.

Start off with just a bit of light calling, have you buddy throw a bumper and shoot the primer pistol. Dog moves or whines, he gets corrected and your buddy picks up the bumper. Repeat until no movement or whining. Dog does not get to retrieve until desired action is performed.

If it goes well increase the excitement level to a dead bird thrown after a bit more calling and some "get ready", "coming from the left" etc. Again, any whining or movement equals correction and retrieve denial.

Keep progressing up to where a few people are calling, waving goose flags, yelling "here they come!", and have the thrower toss that live cackling rooster pheasant and everybody unloads their guns on it! These tactics work to induce opportunities for correction on even the best behaved retrievers.

Good luck. Feel free to call me if you want to talk through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks a bunch for the advice Tim. I would be interested in talking to you about this. Would you do a single training session like that to work on breaking that habit or does it have to be a full training program committent if I came to you for help?
 

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Tim, that was one of the best articulations of behavior correction I've read. Excellent post and spot on.
 

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Another thing that may help is to turn his blind sideways facing you right about at your head that way you can keep a eye on him and talk to him while the birds are coming in and he can see you but not the birds i have seen this help with other dogs.

Jimmie
Let The Feathers Fly!!!
 

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zdawg said:
Thanks a bunch for the advice Tim. I would be interested in talking to you about this. Would you do a single training session like that to work on breaking that habit or does it have to be a full training program committent if I came to you for help?
Bring another person to help call/throw/shoot and yôu are welcome to come train with me anytime. It will take a number of sessions to fix. We'll start with an overall evaluation of your dog and work up to the start of developing your standard for correction and desired response reward during the first session. We can go over future lesson instructions or you can come train with me in succession. Call me anytime to talk more. 814-591-5492
 
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