Do I really need to use Polaris oil?
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ANY OIL? If synthetic was used originaly i thought you had to stay with it? I use AMS Oil in my 2007 450 Polaris And FRAM Filter. Was 1/3 cost of POLARIS Oil change kit!
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SORRY! i was just wondering! is mobile better than ams oil?
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You can use Synthetic or regular... just drain out completely... like a few days. Don't have that much time? Buy 2 quantities of oil you plan to use, fill it, drain it after a quick ride, then fill it again (to get all old regular or synthetic out- if you plan to switch of course)
Me, I take the cheap route. I go to work all week, I let the drain plug sit on the workbench with the pan underneath (if I plan on using a different oil or switch from synthetic to regular, or vice versa)
I would recommend synthetic oil for any quad...
4 stroke motor oil, Bel Ray and Maxima.
2 strokes, Bel Ray tranny fluid.
Me, I take the cheap route. I go to work all week, I let the drain plug sit on the workbench with the pan underneath (if I plan on using a different oil or switch from synthetic to regular, or vice versa)
I would recommend synthetic oil for any quad...
4 stroke motor oil, Bel Ray and Maxima.
2 strokes, Bel Ray tranny fluid.
Hey spirit, you ever use synthetic oil in your Banshee? I was always told and read that synthetics don't react kindly to a wet clutch.
Oh, and BTW I don't know that Mobil 1 is better than Ams oil (I wouldn't think though) it's just that I could get it at Wallyworld and a lot of other people had run it in their Polaris with good luck. Personally I believe (and I don't think anybody would disagree) that it is WAY more important checking your oil and changing it a little more often than the brand you use.
Oh, and BTW I don't know that Mobil 1 is better than Ams oil (I wouldn't think though) it's just that I could get it at Wallyworld and a lot of other people had run it in their Polaris with good luck. Personally I believe (and I don't think anybody would disagree) that it is WAY more important checking your oil and changing it a little more often than the brand you use.
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From what I have read it really doesn't hurt to mix synthetic and conventional oil either since most all synthetic is a blend anyway. I believe it is a lot of manufacturer driven hype. That being said I use Polaris oil in mine only because the dealer is 2 miles away.SpiritNugent said:
Stetam
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2 strokes use tranny fluid instead of motor oil. I use Bel Ray Gear Saver tranny fluid in it. But towards the end of last summer, I was using ATF Type F Automatic tranny fluid for cars. $3 a quart, and it takes 2. I change it every weekend due to it being a lighter weight, but the thing shifts like butter and the clutch works flawlessly.devonb said:
That Bel Ray (or any ATV premium oils) are $9-10 a quart. I said the heck with it.
Huh, I've raced for 10 years and never used tranny fluid in ANY of my bikes. I had a banshee for about 6 years and always used 10-30 in the clutch. I started racing bikes on a 92 YZ250 then a 93 CR250, a 96' YZ250, a 99' YZF400 and I ended my racing days on a 00' YZF426 and never used tranny fluid. Maybe we aren't on the same page here but banshee's don't need tranny fluid for the clutch.
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I always prefered to use the 80w gear box oil (Bel Ray) in my two strokes, but I think you can get away with certain motor oils for the clutches. Not sure about actual transmission oil.
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Motor oil, car tranny fluid, or "motorcycle transmission fluid" can be used safely in 2 strokes. All the bikes you had listed were except the YZF426. That NEEDED motor oil. No options there. Just owners preference with 2 strokes. Your manuals told you motor oil... for you banshee, for your YZ, for your CR, etc.devonb said:
Lube is lube in a 2 stroke. It lubes the clutch and the tranny at the same time, as well as all of the shifting components.
If you plan to use tranny fluid, it must be wet clutch approved. ATF Type F is wet clutch approved. Just like motor oils for motorcycles must be wet clutch approved.
Talk with engine builders... the best engine builders in the country and ask them what they run in their bikes. Whether it's on the track, in the sand dunes, or in my case, on the hills and drag strip.
ATF Type F tranny Fluid. Why? It's light, wet clutch approved, shifts like butter, and will not hurt a thing. Sometimes temperature will make heavier oils thicker or lighter than preferred, and this will make shifting gummy. Which can make or break your times or will be the difference in coming in 1st or 2nd place.
However, it breaks down faster than motor oil or thicker motorcycle transmission fluids. Thus, it needs changed often. I changed it after every ride. It was cheap enough to do so. But worked like a charm.
There are articles on this online... you can certainly read up on it. Or, if you'd like, I will post links to make it easier.
Pistons are lubed by the oil you put in your gas. I am sure you knew this.
Here is Bel Ray Gear Saver... a "transmission fluid" used in 2 strokes. I have used it, and will most likely use it this year with my new clutch plates and fibers I put in. I was running the same clutch fibers and plates for 6 years until this year. Took the clutch out, looked at them, and they still had life in them. With the power my bike puts down on the ground, and don't forget, it's no everyday banshee, you would think I would have fried a clutch or 2.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/13/125/5770/ITEM/Bel-Ray-Gear-Saver-Transmission-Oil.aspx
I don't want to start a peeing match, and certainly don't want to stray off topic. But a Clymer's Manual (not your owners manual) will explain alot of this. Motor oil simply wears down quicker and is heavier/lighter than some of the tranny fluids out there made for motorcycles.
Banshees can safely run ATF Type F tranny fluid... I repeat, ATF Type F. It is for Fords I believe, but ATF is wet clutch approved. And is tranny fluid (2 strokes have 1)
It's cheap, and effective.
Banshees do need tranny fluid, or motor oil if that's what you prefer and would like to use because that's what the manual says... However, if we all listened to the manual that comes under the seat of a bike rolling off the showroom floor, we wouldn't have aftermarket parts on them either.
That's the best I can explain it... if it's still not making sense, then I don't know what to tell you.
It's not that it didn't make sense, it's just that you stated that you need to run tranny fluid in a two-stroke is all. I know you know your stuff about banshee's (as do I) and I guess want to clear some stuff up. The 99' 400 is a four-stroke too btw. Also (as YOU know) the crank is lubed with the pre mix in a two-stroke first before it's pushed through the ports into the cylinder and lube the rings. I just like when people ask a question that they get a complete answer and not the "Nascar/Pro-AMA" $10 a quart answer when it is really not neccesary. A "pissing match" was by no means what I was trying to start. I just bought a new street bike and they said not all synthetics will be good for the clutch that is in it, supposedly it will "gum up" in that environment. Then at the bike shop I see some Amsoil that says it is safe for clutches too. I was just wondering if you ever used a sythetic in your clutch. It's been 15 years since my last banshee (I switched to bikes, obviously). Anyways the original post was about using Polaris oil and NO you don't have to use Polaris oil. Just watch the hub fluid. Some say you can use ATF tranny fluid and others say it ruined their hubs. atvconnection and Highlifter you will find much "better" info on the Polaris than you will find here. Taker easy.
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Once again, I think you took my post the wrong way. I am very sorry to see that.
Anyways, I can also list 10-15 bikes, 2, 3 and 4 wheels, 2 and 4 strokes, that I have had since I started. This isn't my first rodeo either.
One thing we both will agree with, is the OP will find much better info elsewhere.
Sorry my answers weren't good.
Take Care Devon
Anyways, I can also list 10-15 bikes, 2, 3 and 4 wheels, 2 and 4 strokes, that I have had since I started. This isn't my first rodeo either.
One thing we both will agree with, is the OP will find much better info elsewhere.
Sorry my answers weren't good.
Take Care Devon
No, not at all. Sounds like you're right about there being better oil out there for the clutch then regular oil. I just always used regular oil. I never knew that. I wasn't being smart about it at all. I just really wanted to know from somebody else who may have tried a synthetic in their clutch. My new bike lubes the engine and the clutch so I was (am) a little hesitant about using a full sythetic.
BTW, what is the biggest thing you hate about the banshee's design? I fought this the whole time I owned one and I'll bet you don't care for it either. Always happy to discuss banshee's with another enthusiast. Not TOO many out there now.
BTW, what is the biggest thing you hate about the banshee's design? I fought this the whole time I owned one and I'll bet you don't care for it either. Always happy to discuss banshee's with another enthusiast. Not TOO many out there now.
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Devon,
Glad to see we are on the same page.
I have indeed used a synthetic in my clutches before. I don't think you have anything to worry about. A good synthetic motor oil will do you good. One thing you have to make sure is, it has to be wet clutch approved. Some aren't.
Maxima and Bel Ray for your motor oils is what I'd try and run in it if I was you. IMO, they are as good as it gets.
Banshees? Not much to hate with them other than the kickstarter rattle. I grew to like this sound though. Others despise it.
In stock form, I am not into the air box hooked up to the carbs with 2 separate boots. However, my bike is easy to work on now. No airbox, big easy to work on carbs, and air filters attached right to them. I rip them off and spray them down and have the bike running again in 20 minutes. In stock form, you got a project on your hands.
Glad to see we are on the same page.
I have indeed used a synthetic in my clutches before. I don't think you have anything to worry about. A good synthetic motor oil will do you good. One thing you have to make sure is, it has to be wet clutch approved. Some aren't.
Maxima and Bel Ray for your motor oils is what I'd try and run in it if I was you. IMO, they are as good as it gets.
Banshees? Not much to hate with them other than the kickstarter rattle. I grew to like this sound though. Others despise it.
In stock form, I am not into the air box hooked up to the carbs with 2 separate boots. However, my bike is easy to work on now. No airbox, big easy to work on carbs, and air filters attached right to them. I rip them off and spray them down and have the bike running again in 20 minutes. In stock form, you got a project on your hands.
LOL. I forgot about the kick start rattle. I can't tell you how many o-rings I went through. 20 years and no changes really (J-arm to A-arm in 90) and that's really it. I was thinking about the chain tension system they used. I hated it! I can't believe they used the same system for all those years.
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The chain system is another thing on most guys change list. I never had a problem with it, yet, see why Honda had it right from the start. I am changing over to a roundhouse carrier, swingarm, etc. over next winter because of it. Funny you brought that up today. Last evening I was playing with it, and it gave me a hard time. If I had a roundhouse style swinger and carrier, I would have been done in 5 minutes. The stock style, well, it took me 30 minutes. And thats after alot of experience messing with the thing.
I'd say that's at the top of my list right now.
I'd say that's at the top of my list right now.
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I suggest staying away from frame oil filters. Take a good look at some youtube videos about Frame oil filters. It will definitely change your mind about ever using them again. They cut several oil filter open (new ones) and frame by far is the worst of the worst. They use to be a good quality filter but now, their media is crap and there is rust inside pretty much most of them. Rust inside an engine is not good.
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