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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
seeing as i killed 3 with the good ole round ball now, id like to try a conical...

shooting a 50cal TC hawken flinter..

ive shot conicals...powerbelts, 2 different buffalo bullets (a ballet and a HP) and i think 2 different maxis..

i cant remember if it was all the season my sights were loose or if none of them shot well when the sights were tightened down...i know one year i had an issue with my rear sight coming loose...

i dont know why i wanna try a bullet...i love the round ball and my ball blocks and know the roundball is a deer killer...

just thinking of trying something just to try it...i wouldnt mind having a decent exit hole...thats my biggest thing is im not getting a decent exit with RBs...

any thoughts on something that aughta shoot well from a 1:48" twist and expand and leave a decent exit??

i'll try the left overs i have too on the range to see if any group well now that my sights are tight to see if that may been the problem...
 

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I have a few different types that I would send you samples of,figure out if ya like any and I'll hook ya up....Free of charge of course.
 

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I almost forgot,I have maxi balls,maxi hunters and some big bruisers that I cast last year.Let me know if I can help you.
 

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Hornady Pa Conical with a T\C button between the conical and the powder. Great accuracy and reloads for second and thirds without a cleaning are good.

I like 'em better than PRB

FWIW

Dave
 

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I can say in older t/c flinter barrel from the 70's the REALS CONICASL 320 with 70 grains of 3F goex will tack drive group from the bench and knock the deer over were they stand.I would be glad to send you a few but my supply is limited to 25 rounds left .I had a guy who did cast them for out of soft pure lead some time back I need to find another caster I never got into casting boolets.I think he made me 500 rounds a few years back and now I am at the bottom of the barrel.
 

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Well that's the problem with 1/48 twist; it just a little too slow to stabilize most conical bullets. They will shoot ok at around 50 yards but they will be tipping a little bit. In other words they won't be completly stabilized; you will see evidence of this on a paper target where one side of the bullet hit before the other and is not a nice clean hole. The problem is that they wont track well though deer because of that. I am not saying the won't take deer because they will but they won't hold accuracy well at the longer ranges either.

The Greenhill formula for twist and bullets is 150(.50x.50)/ twist rate. So 150 x .25 / 48 = .781. This is the longest .50 caliber bullet that will <u>fully</u> stabilize in the 1:48 twist. If you want to stabilize a pistol bullet in a .50 sabot using .430 or .451 bullets then use the formula but for example 150 x (.451 x.451) /48. so .635 for that bullet. Believe me when I say that a bullet that is even .010 too long will show slight signs of tipping and yaw on the target. As you get shorter length bullets than the optimal length for the twist the more the powder charge needs to be reduced to get the best accuracy. It has to do with revolutions per second and is a bit complicated and lengthly to explain.

A 385 grain .50 Great Plains bullet is .850 long. A .452 250 grain xtp bullet is about .660. A TC Maxi-hunter (not Maxi-Ball) 350 grain bullet in .50 is .750 long and would probably be your best choice to try first; use an overpowder wad and my bets are it would shoot very well in your barrel. I have not owned a 1:48 twist in years and when I did it was required to shoot roundballs for the primitive season. The Power belt bullets of the right length would be another outstanding choice as would some of the longer Buffalo ball-ets (270 grains) or the Hornady ball-et at 240 grains but that one may be a bit short to get real good accuracy in a 1:48 twist.

Use the longest bullet you can for the twist rate you have for your best accuracy. The numbers point toward the TC 350 grain Maxi-hunter Hollow Point with a bore button to protect the base of the bullet. Either that or a Power belt bullet would be my choice. The TC 350 grainer would be my choice and is plenty of smack down for whitetails. As the other posted mentioned a 320 grain real bullet would fit right in the proper window as well. Pay attention to length and ignore weight.

Use calipers to measure your lengths and don't include the plastic base on a Power belt and measure bullet length only when a sabot is used. Full bore bullets with a concave base with allow you to use a little longer bullet as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanx alot guys...

thanx for the explanation mossie...i never knew there was such a formula...

i dont need any of ya'll to send samples, though a generous offer...if i cant find 1 out of my stash to shoot, i'll stick with PRBs...i have probably 5 different types to try of my own...if i find one groups well i'll buy more and zero the rifle with them and shoot them this season...i wont touch my zero till i know what im shooting..it absolutely tack drives PRBs...

i just cant remember if when i tried all those conicals was the season my sights were loose or if i just couldnt get any to shoot...

never got around to finding and using bore buttons either...which i probably aughta try for the flat based bullets like maxis..

i can also shoot PRBs all day without swabbing and thats over 90grs of 3fg...
 

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Your barrel may differ but my TC .50cal 1:48 hawken shoots the 370gr. maxi ball more accuarate than the 350gr. maxi hunter.
TC recomends 90gr. FFG for the most accurate load with both maxi's.
 

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I shoot the Hornady Great Plains bullet out of my Hawken. 385 grains. Does a number on deer. I use 90 gr of 2F powder. Don't shoot over 50 yds or so.
 
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