The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
You always learn a lesson and this is one of them. Clean your gun when you get home so you dont forget. Here is my problem and i hope its solveable. I did not clean my gun after shooting it off last year and it was in a somewhat humid envrionment apparently after it got home. This is a Traditons muzzleloader. That being said there is light rust on frizzen on the pivot point and on the inside lock mechanisms after you take off the barrel. I have really got in there with a brush and cleaned that out with traditions muzzleloader cleaner and i think i got it fairly good. Can i lightly oil these areas or can i put a thin coat of bore butter on them? I dont want to 'contaminate' anything. In addition, my bore is not in good shape. it was to the point that the first pass only went down and did not come up and i had a bear of a time getting it out. I did get it out and started at the top and progressively worked my way down the barrel for over an hour. I am able to get all the way down the barrell. When i get towards the very end it feel like it is a little 'rough'. From what i can see every which way i can shine a light i can not see any horrible area. patches i am running thru the barell are coming up with what i would say is a light yellow/green orange color. That is with solvent cleaner on it. Is there any hope for this barrell? should i try some other solvent in this barrell? Should i continue to clean it with the traditions orange cleaner or is there something better. I can see the rifling and dont see any horrible rust areas as far down as i can see. I do not have any type of scope to inspect the barrell. Am i better off buying a new barrell or can this be fixed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,158 Posts
Exterior parts with light rust can be cleaned up with 0000 steel wool. (not anything coarser) Then polish any bearing surfaces lightly with a stone, lubricate and put it back together. A spot of a heavy oil such as STP, slick 50, or even a really good quality chain and bar oil (to ma a spot is less than a drop, for instance use a q-tip to just dampen the area desired to be lubed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
For the barrel, get a wooden dowel, cut some barbs on the end similar to a pineapple. Wrap some fine steel wool around the dowel (the barbs hold it in place) Put some penetrating oil on the steel wool and start scrubbing the barrel with even strokes. It won't take out any pits but will remove any surface rust or other crud.

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
If you have access to a .357, or .38 nickle case (already fired) drop it down the barrel with the headstamp up. This will act like a mirror, and if you shine a flashlight in, it will illuminate the bore. A maglight flashlight works very well for this, as you can adjust the tightness of the beam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,352 Posts
you can even use a cordless drill put the wire brush made for the cal. you have plug the touch hole with a tooth pick and spray penetrating oil in the barrel let it sit and dumb it out put more back in and then use the drill slow up and down you my need to repeat a couple of time every couple of times run a patch by hand down the ballel when it comes clean finish it off with olive oil on a patch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,158 Posts
blck powder and pure lead is pretty forgiving when it comes to slight barrel corrosion. I know some folks really like the steel wool thing in the barrel. To me that may unnecessarily wear the rifling. J&B bore cleaner is a greasy paste with a solvent and gentle abrasive in it. Auto finish rubbing compound, the white stuff not the red, is a paste with mild abrasive in it. (The red has much coarser abrasive in it.) Put some on a patch and run it up and down a dozen times, change to a new patch with some on it and repeat. Someone last week suggested a small piece of one of those green pot scrubber pads on a jag. Just shooting and cleaning will knock a lot of the roughness out.

Some pitting won't seriously affect the barrel or accuracy. Modern smokeless barrels are far more damaged by pitting because of the tighter tolerances and copper jacketed bullets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
so this barrell is prob not trash? sounds like i need to go with some brushes and keep at it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,419 Posts
I use the drill and 0000 steel wool only on my smooth bores.My rifles get 0000 steel wrapped around a jag or brass brush.Some also use patch and toothpaste.Others lapping compound.Don't worry,its not trashed!It'll clean up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Even if it is pitted, chances are it will still shoot decent. The pits may cause it to foul more than usual.

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
the experiment is over...failed. Im either buying a new gun or a replacement barrel. ..prob a new gun. I was doing ok with the brush and patches and that was knocking out the bad stuff, especially down by the touch hole. Well, it must have been bad as the patch got stuck....now it got stuck before and i was able to get it out, but this time the ramrod snapped below the cleaning patch jag and is now wedged in the barrel. That being said i would spend more time/money getting a gunsmith to get it out..if thats even possible on a questionable barrel. There is no way you can grab it and i know there is no way to blow it out...its wedged. Learning the hardway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I looked at that....$35 or so...it just keeps adding up. if it doesnt work im out that and now im out the ramrod which is another $20+ dollars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,769 Posts
pt1e said:
I looked at that....$35 or so...it just keeps adding up. if it doesnt work im out that and now im out the ramrod which is another $20+ dollars.
They sell alot of questionable products to muzzleloader people. But, IMO, a CO2 discharger isn't one of them. Even if you replace the barrel, or buy a new rifle, having a discharger is a worthwhile tool to have. I use mine for more than just discharging. Handy in the shop too when you need a shot of air in the exact spot. If I got completely out of muzzleloading, the discharger is the one thing I would hang onto.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,576 Posts
Thanks. I haven't used some products in a few years. which might not all apply for you.

For rust, I have used naval jelly. Wouldn't get it on wood and probably plastic. Last used it on air vents the mrs. wanted replaced. After brushing it on and waiting, the vents came clean as new, plus with them getting some spray paint.

You can find it in hardware and tool shops. NAPA has naval jelly and soluble cutting and drilling oil. The naval jelly, I use for the rust on metal products. The soluble oil to use in making "moosemilk" a homemade concoction for regular muzzleloader cleaning.

Whatever you use, good luck. I appreciate getting an update on my old stand byes and a local supplier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Dang, I haven't used that excuse to get a new rifle yet. Kind of mad I spent all that time cleaning mine when I left it go for a few days. You should really get a new gun and probably upgrade...I heard they don't rust as much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,867 Posts
zimmerstutzen said:
I'll give ya $20 for the gun.
Oh sure...and lets see the pics next week after YOU get your hands on it!
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top