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So I've read that when cleaning a flintlock to run the barrel through hot soapy water. I was wondering about the lock. Do you remove that to or just leave it on the gun and give it a good scrub down. All opinions welcome. Thank you.
 

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Remove the barrel from the stock and the lock should stay with the stock then hot soapy water the barrel.
 

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Do you thing the pioneers had hot running water and Dawn sitting in the cabin?

Cleaning a flinter does not require dancing naked and juggling snakes. The thing with BP is ..... ready..... get it wet. Once its wet the corrosive properties are gone. So a couple wet patches, then follow it with Ballistol down the bbl. The best way to clean the lock is to run it under hot water and then shoot it with ballistol. It is easy to pull so you can, but the main thing is to get the BP residue wet.
 

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No soap on your lock, as you don't want it on the frizzen.

I pull my rifle apart, and I swab the barrel in a bucket of lukewarm, not hot, water.

The lock I will usually spray with the kitchen sink sprayer to help get into places I can't easily get a rag or such, and then I set it under a ceiling fan or by my pellet stove to dry the moisture off it.

Wet patches get run in the barrel to "plunge" out the breech, then dump the stinky water that makes, get a bit more and wet patching till they come out with no black fouling. Dry patches till they come back out dry and no fouling marks.

If I'm planning to shoot soon, I'm done.

If I'm not, then I run a lightly oiled patch down the bore, BUT....have to remember to dry-patch that out before shooting.

I'll work some light oil in under the cock/mainspring to make sure there's no corrosion taking root in there, lightly oil all the parts except for pan and frizzen/vent hole region, and then reassemble.

It's not rocket surgery. :)
 

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I remove the barrel, swab with boiling hot water until the water in the bucket is coming out clear and the patches are coming out clean. I allow it to sit a couple minutes and evaporate the water out, then swab dry. I lightly oil at the end of the season. I use alcohol swabs on the lock and don't oil at all.

I am by no means an expert or an old hand at this, so take the advice with a grain of salt ;-)
 

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first, all of my guns are long rifles, so pulling the barrel all the time really is not a good option or one that is not necessary. very simple, I always have windex in my shop, so that's what I use. water will wok fine also. I simply take off the lock, spray it down good and set it off to the side. I then put a tooth pick in the touch hole and give the barrel 6 or 8 shots, put my thumb over the end and tip it back and forth a few time and dump it out. soak a few patches and run them down the barrel until they come out clean and follow with dry patches to dry. soak a couple patches with rem oil and oil it. follow with a dry patch to get out the excess. take one of the used oil patches and clean around the touch hole area. tooth brush the entire lock and blow it dry with air or you can rinse with HOT water and it will dry. soak the entire lock with rem oil and wipe off the excess and put back on the gun. oil outside of the barrel and done. its worked for me for 35+ years without any problems.
 

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Some guns have pinned barrels, and its not a good idea to remove them each time you clean the gun because you will eventually wear out the pin holes in the stock. For my Lancaster, I remove the lock, then install the fancy brass syphon over the touch hole that I bought through Track of the Wolf. Its a pain in the arse to use at first but I figured out a way that works pretty well. I install the clamp/hose and turn the gun upside down resting it on two sand bags with the barrel end slightly lower to facilitate any water running out the bore into the drain bucket. . Seems to work fairly well this way. Then I run boiling water with a little Murphy's oil soap in it. Cleans the bore mirror bright. Then I rinse it with hot plain water. For the lock, I just dip a nylon cleaning brush into the clean water and brush the lock down to remove any powder residue. I use an old hair dryer to dry the lock, then oil up the moving parts, run a patch dampened with breakfree down the bore and she's done.

This is the cleaning tube I have for my flintlocks;

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/popup_image.php?pID=7030

I got mine from TOTW, but its the same one. As I said, a PIA to use at first as it will leak and fall off, but with patience you can get it to work fairly well. Meant for guns with pinned barrels. For hooked breech guns, don't even bother, just dip barrel into the cleaning bucket.
 

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So I've read that when cleaning a flintlock to run the barrel through hot soapy water. I was wondering about the lock. Do you remove that to or just leave it on the gun and give it a good scrub down. All opinions welcome. Thank you.
It's a good idea to pull the lock of now and then and depending on how much shooting you do. My point being that you need to be careful that your prime is not working its way into the lock mortise and collecting there as an IED. As for the hot water treatment for the bore - I do it probably more than I should mostly because it's an easy process (I have keys and not pins securing the barrel to the stock) and I like the cleaning process. Spent over 5 years in the Marine Corps and any rifle that is not cleaned down to the bare metal is cause for Brig time.

:)
 

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I have a pinned barrel, and the maker of my rifle recommended I pull the barrel, so I do. He also provides long-term "support" for his rifles, and told me if/when the holes for the pins get sloppy, he'll make me new pins. So....I pull it. I'm careful, but I pull it. I've toyed with the idea of the flush kit mentioned above. Dixon sells them. My worry is water getting under the barrel/breech when/if if leaks from the flush kit.

I wouldn't worry about live powder getting down between the lock and the barrel/stock. I've shot TC and Lyman guns for a long time, and I never had much of an issue there. Fouling, yes. Live powder, no. You'd have to have a pretty sloppy fit of lock/stock/breech for that to happen.

What I've started doing lately is I run a few patches of Hoppes 9+ through the bore when I'm done shooting, but still at the range. This knocks out a ton of fouling right away. This shortens the time for cleaning at home, and more importantly, cuts the sulfur smell waaaaaaaay down, which means my wife and kids complain less about the smell. ;)

I read that some experienced flash rust from using hot water. I didn't believe it till I had it happen. So I use lukewarm water. It doesn't make the cleaning process any longer or more difficult when you don't use hot water. You just need to dry-patch the bore dry.
 

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Before I leave the range after shooting, I swab out the bore pretty good with wet patches. Gets most of the worst fouling out. Once I get home I pull the lock and dunk it in fairly hot tap water and use a nylon brush to get any fouling off, then lightly oil the workings after drying. The barrel I don't remove. I just remove the touch hole liner and screw in the cleaning tube. Place the end of the rubber tube in a bucket (I use a Folgers plastic coffee "can" with a hole cut in the lid to slip the tube through) of luke warm water. Pump water in and out of the barrel with a patched jag until clean. I then run patches until they are dry and then run a lubed patch down the bore. I also tend to go back a day or so later and run some patched down the bore followed by lubed patch to finish. Old habit from my military days.
 

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Yeah, if I had a threaded vent, I'd do that method, for sure.

Having a drilled vent makes me worry about actually sealing that flush kit. I fear it'll just make a worse mess to use that with a drilled vent.
 

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I've toyed with the idea of the flush kit mentioned above. Dixon sells them. My worry is water getting under the barrel/breech when/if if leaks from the flush kit.
This is the reason I turn my gun upside down when I flush the bore. I have the muzzle end lower than the breech. Any water that does leak from the clamp or out of the muzzle only goes down onto the table, and doesn't get down in between the stock and the metal. Then again even if it did, it will only rust the barrel. which is browned from a rusting process anyway. I worried more about the stock swelling than the barrel getting wet. But again, turn the gun upside down and the flush kit works great this way.
 

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Yeah, if I had a threaded vent, I'd do that method, for sure.

Having a drilled vent makes me worry about actually sealing that flush kit. I fear it'll just make a worse mess to use that with a drilled vent.
Not a good idea to remove touch hole liners. They should remain in place when cleaning the bore. There's no reason you should remove them.

Re, the flush kit, a little grease on the O-ring helps to seal it against the side of the barrel. Its gonna leak no doubt, but done the way I do it, and the leaks are at a minimum.
 

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You want to remove the barrel if it has a hooked breech. Some remove the touch hole others don't.
Put the breech end in water with or without soap.
I use an aluminum rod for cleaning.You want to pump water with a jag and cleaning patch to get a good swirl going to clean out the breech area that is often a smaller diameter than the bore.
Couple dry patches after a rinse and I run the hair drier for a while to dry that breech area.
No oils for me till season end THEN I remove the lock.
Warm water and toothbrush lock followed by being put in oven at lowest setting for couple minutes to dry it out.
Light coat of Ballistol and back together.
 

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Lots of good advice here on cleaning a flintlock, But remember you are running your cleaning rod in from the muzzle so be sure to use a bore guide, you don't want to damage the crown , a muzzle loader barrel is just like a center fire barrel.
 

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I pull the lock off and dunk it in the hot soapy water in the bucket that I pulled up the barrel thru the touch hole. Scrub the lock with a toothbrush then dry it on top of my cast iron gas heater. Dry the barrel the same way. Hit the frizzen pan with denatured alcohol and lube the internals. Never had rust, always goes bang.
 

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Lots of good advice here on cleaning a flintlock, But remember you are running your cleaning rod in from the muzzle so be sure to use a bore guide, you don't want to damage the crown , a muzzle loader barrel is just like a center fire barrel.
If you're using a wooden or plastic ramrod, I doubt there is any reason to be concerned about crown damage. Now if using a steel or even a brass cleaning or range rod, then yes, definitely use a bore guide.
 

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Anyone ever use a waterpik teeth cleaner or similar to jet out the lock area and all of that?...then follow up with compressed air to dry.
 
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