The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,211 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am about to start the process for browning the barrel on a Traditions ML. I have never done this before and my question is going to strike some folks as dumb, but I need some guidance. I know it is very important to keep the browning solution out of the barrel so what is the best way to block the flash hole (I do not have the liner in yet) and the bore at the business end? If I use a rag or paper towel the browning solution will soak into them and get into the bore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
501 Posts
I used wood dowel rod trimmed to fit inside the barrel and touch hole. Just snug enough not to fall out if you bump it, not tight enough to get stuck in and cause a problem removing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,500 Posts
For the muzzle I use a dowel rod trimmed to fit. For the touch hole (that is threaded) I also use a piece of dowel rod that is a couple inches long. The piece I use will "screw" into the touch hole. The threads from the touch hole just thread the rod. Don't know if it's needed, but I put a thin coat of Vaseline on the ends that I insert. Kind of insurance for a good seal and ease of removal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
One more thing, Jimsdad.
Don't dismiss the section in the directions where it says to card off the surface after every application. It will pay dividends in the final appearance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,211 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
One more thing, Jimsdad.
Don't dismiss the section in the directions where it says to card off the surface after every application. It will pay dividends in the final appearance.
Interesting data point there Windsniffer.
I just read the instructions on the bottle again and there is no mention of "card off" anywhere. What the heck is it and how do I find out where to do it?


I am planning on using Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
I'm working from memory here and it's been quite a few years since I browned a barrel, so don't take this for gospel. I think I used a browning solution from Track-of-the-Wolf that required putting the metal in a humidity box after each application. This helped speed up the rusting on the metal and it left the surface with very fine rust scale that was "carded" off with a real soft wire brush I mounted in a grinder. The process was: 1 Apply the brown solution, 2 put the metal in the heated humidity box overnight, 3 card off the scale, 4 repeat until the desired color is achieved. It worked beautifully and left the surface with a very attractive plum brown and smooth as silk. Now that I think about it, that was at least ten years ago and the finish still looks the way it came out at the end of the process without any rusting or loss of color. I wouldn't hesitate a bit to use that process again. Perhaps the Birchwood Casey product is easier to use and doesn't require carding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
I am about to start the process for browning the barrel on a Traditions ML. I have never done this before and my question is going to strike some folks as dumb, but I need some guidance. I know it is very important to keep the browning solution out of the barrel so what is the best way to block the flash hole (I do not have the liner in yet) and the bore at the business end? If I use a rag or paper towel the browning solution will soak into them and get into the bore.
Try cork it works great.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,432 Posts
Carding is where you use a tooth brush or a piece of stiff cloth, such as a piece of old denim to rub the orange scale off the metal before applying your next coat of browning solution.

Glad you're using plum brown and not Laurel Mountain Forge. The latter is crap, and produces lousy results. I've used both types and Plum Brown is far and away the better product.

I used a dowel for the muzzle, same as others here, however I added layers of masking tape until I could shove the taped part of the stick into the muzzle and it would not fall out. For the flash hole I just inserted a toothpick.

If you have soldered on tennons on the barrel, watch out that you don't heat the metal too much that it melts the solder. That is why I used LMF on my smoothbore because its applied cold.

I ever do another barrel, I think I'm gonna use my heat gun to heat the metal instead of a torch when using plum brown. My heat gun gets up to 400 degrees. Plenty hot enough to sizzle plum brown on metal, without the danger of open flame such as when using a torch.

I know one thing, I'll never use LMF solution again. That stuff is garbage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Did a couple many yrs ago, prepped the barrel by using a cork in the muzzle the a 1/4 28 screw in the touch hole liner, sand blasted the barrel with very fine play sand. Heated the barrel with a porpane torch , not very hot just warm, browning went on nice and left a parkerized like finish, been on for 25 yrs now
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,777 Posts
Carding is where you use a tooth brush or a piece of stiff cloth, such as a piece of old denim to rub the orange scale off the metal before applying your next coat of browning solution.

Glad you're using plum brown and not Laurel Mountain Forge. The latter is crap, and produces lousy results. I've used both types and Plum Brown is far and away the better product.

I used a dowel for the muzzle, same as others here, however I added layers of masking tape until I could shove the taped part of the stick into the muzzle and it would not fall out. For the flash hole I just inserted a toothpick.

If you have soldered on tennons on the barrel, watch out that you don't heat the metal too much that it melts the solder. That is why I used LMF on my smoothbore because its applied cold.

I ever do another barrel, I think I'm gonna use my heat gun to heat the metal instead of a torch when using plum brown. My heat gun gets up to 400 degrees. Plenty hot enough to sizzle plum brown on metal, without the danger of open flame such as when using a torch.

I know one thing, I'll never use LMF solution again. That stuff is garbage.

LMF requires time complimented by humidity. I even use it on traps and such. One product I wouldn't be without.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,432 Posts
LMF requires time complimented by humidity. I even use it on traps and such. One product I wouldn't be without.
I understand how the stuff works. I read the expanded directions letter for letter twice, before first using the product. My results were poor. My opinion is LMF is an inferior product. I'm sure others may have had better results, but I've also read much about LMF (sadly after the fact), also proclaiming it as not much better than urine.


The problem with LMF is not in the application, its after the carding process is over and you've oiled the barrel. The slightest wipe and it comes off, leaving blotchy ugly results. That is why I won't ever use it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,628 Posts
I've always had very good results with plum brown and a propane touch. never bothered with plugging the barrel or touch hole, but also didn't gob it on to point of running into those places.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,777 Posts
I understand how the stuff works. I read the expanded directions letter for letter twice, before first using the product. My results were poor. My opinion is LMF is an inferior product. I'm sure others may have had better results, but I've also read much about LMF (sadly after the fact), also proclaiming it as not much better than urine.


The problem with LMF is not in the application, its after the carding process is over and you've oiled the barrel. The slightest wipe and it comes off, leaving blotchy ugly results. That is why I won't ever use it again.

What LMF does is kick start the rust ....to get the rusting process started.

The longer the rusting period (preferably in the presence of humidity), the more even, richer, and deeper the color becomes. Lack of durability with a LMF started rusting process has never been an issue for me.

If you have some you don't want send it to me...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,211 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks to everyone! I went ahead with the process today and I could not be happier. I had a problem with the torch going out more times than I care to remember and the first application was a non starter because I did not have the barrel hot enough. But then I made sure the browning solution sizzled when I put it on and from that point on it was a pleasure. I have one spot that looks kind of thin and will get to it tomorrow. Could not be happier. Kind of a bummer that this Traditions kit gun will be finished in a coupe more days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,622 Posts
. But then I made sure the browning solution sizzled when I put it on and from that point on it was a pleasure.
One trick I discovered through trial and error using Birchwood plump brown, instead of warming the barrel and wiping it on until it dries continue applying it until the barrel cools enough so it remains wet. No, streaks, lighter-darker spots and etc.

Bill
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top