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Discussion Starter #1
need my plains hawkens done.... stocks almost finished need to brown all the steel parts ??
 

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Log Cabin Shop
BARREL BROWN & DEGREASER, 2.5 oz. $9.75 (+Ohio Sales Tax) EA
from Laurel Mountain Forge. No need to degrease beyond washing. Goes on cold. Repeated applications over several days gives a rich, even brown. Works best in humid atmosphere. 2-1/2 oz. bottle.


This stuff works great on my barrels, and has proven very durable. Be patient if you do not have a sweatbox though...it may take 2 weeks. Just follow their directions to the letter and you can't go wrong.
 

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could i do this in the bathroom after a shower to simulate more humid atmosphere{would this excellerate the browning?] im not trying to rush this just trying to come up with a solution. the air is very dry now.
 

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that genius! do i make the box big enough to hold all the parts? is there a size that woks best? ill build one ? will this stuff work on locks? its been a long time since a built one things change.
 

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that stuff will rust anything.i hang my parts on wire,rebar wire.plug your barrel with corks and oil inside real well before you start.if you need any help pm me i will do what i can.i have done lots of guns browning and rust bluing.its all in the prep work.
 

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thanks jim i started this gun back in the early 80s never had a chance to finish it . still got 4 more coats on the stock and i need to solider the barrel lug on then start browning.its a dixie barrell. tc locks and triggers, cherry stock . its looking good so far. i would like to have it ready to shoot this summer for next year! thank you guys for all your help !
 

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I like the Birchwood Casey stuff that goes on a hot (warm) surface, Rub it on with a swab and then after a few coats, scrub it off with 4 ought steel wool.
When oiled it looks as smooth and shiny as a blueing, just that it is dark brown in color.

Old timers would scrub the barrel with a little salty water with perhaps some egg or soap in it to make it cling to the metal. Place it in a warm humid cabinet and then scrub it down daily. Recoat and then repeat, until the desired effect.
 

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I`ve seen some browning that was almost black colored in nature. How do they do this color?
 

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Wahkon Bay brown solution has worked very well for me. Clean barrel, swab it on, let it work. swab on again until it's the colow you like. Cover with a coat of linseed oil. I've done 6 or 7 rifles with this and it's great, looks good, and is durable.
 

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Like Richdeer said. Wahkon Bay works good, it is a traditional rust browning (acid wear latex gloves).

Easier tahn building a box is just use a large plastic bag, that you blow up, you moist breath will but moistur in it, or some wet paper towels. BUT remember anything that touches the barrel, part will tend to change the color, meaning a light spot or a dark spot.
Best is to do one half end of the barrel and then when that dries do the other side over lapping remember you will be building coats, one a day for me. So one day do the middle of the barrel. You have to use your judgement to get it uniform. but you really don't want it perfect,if you want the 'original' look.
 

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octagon... i am wondering the black color was dyed from hemlock bark. this is what trappers used to dye their traps to teurn them black. i was thinking of doing that to my barrel. right now it is brown.
 
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