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Discussion Starter #1
Been having trouble with my Rem 700 300 win mag not ejecting the shells. A friend of mine said he had a 204 do that and he took a piece of steel wool on the end of a drill and cleaned the chamber because with the in and out of the weather the chamber got some corrosion and would make it difficult to eject shells.
 

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if you do this be careful, and go slow. remember you are cleaning not removing metal. alos be sure to us a bore snake or some patches and thoroughly inspect the barrel and chamber when done to be sure it is completely clean/free of debris.
 

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Is it extracting the shell out of the chamber and then not kicking it out, or is it not extracting the shell from the chamber. One coud be a broken extracter and the other a broken ejecter.
 

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If its not "ejecting" the cases.

1. remove bolt from gun
2. look at the bolt face, you will see a silver plunger (ejector) that should be standing out about 1/8"

You should be able to push the ejector down flush with the bolt face and have it spring back up.

If the ejector stays down or does not come back out smoothly you could have some dirt built up in the spring or ejector hole. Try spaying it out good with some Break Free.

If that doesnt work the ejector and spring can be removed by knocking out the pin in the bolt behind the ejector. Just remember that it is under tension and can/will fly.

Good luck, Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It sometimes won't pull them out of the chamber and it takes a pretty good "thumb" with a cleaning rod to get them out.
 

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devonb said:
It sometimes won't pull them out of the chamber and it takes a pretty good "thumb" with a cleaning rod to get them out.
Its NOT your ejector than, might not be your extractor eigther.

Usually stuck cases are due to high pressure ammo.
Are you shooting factory or reloaded ammo?
Does a UNFIRED round stick?

I would think that if your chamber was that dirty that closing the bolt on a round would also be hard.

Personally, I dont like the drill and steel wool idea.

Good luck, Tony
 

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I replaced all of my Remington extractors with Sako extractors and have never had a problem.(Although my bolt guns have not seen the light of day in years)

Dave
 

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WHATEVER you do don't do that... I assure you that if the chamber has that many burrs,scratches and marks you'd see them on every case no matter how they came out.. I agree with TONY, "too much pressure", Are you seeing the back of the extracted case having a shiny face or real brite brass?? IS you die bottom touching the top of the shell holder, common on a belted case?? Are you trimming you cases with a lathe-.01 under ?? Are you using the deburring tool to chamfer/debur the outside and inside of the ttrimmed neck ?? TAKE two or three grains of powder OUT of your next try at reloading and see if they still stick, DON'T worry about what it says in the manual..your rifle may have been cut with a reammer that was just about finished and it's a little tighter than what it should be.. do they make a small base die that would tighten it up a little over standard full length sizing.. push in on the little button on the front of the bolt face-does it offer any resistance?? Is the little half ring extractor still on the bolt face.. THERE'S a ton of things to check before you start to polish any chamber..take it to a gunsmith and have him run a "go and no go" gage in the chamber..that'll tell you a lot about headspace..try a different brand of brass..who know's maybe your's is a little thicker than normal..LOT's of questions to be answered before you take any action on your own...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some cases do go in a little "tight". There do appear to be little scratch marks on the cases.
 

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I had the same problem with my 700. I took it to a Remington authorized repair shop and was told that this is common when there is oil in the chamber. Since that time, I've swabbed out the chamber before shooting and haven't had the problem repeat itself.
 

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devonb said:
It sometimes won't pull them out of the chamber and it takes a pretty good "thumb" with a cleaning rod to get them out.
It sounds as though its short on Primary Extraction.

Cartridge extraction is a two step process, PE being the first to initially pull the cartridge free of the chamber, the second, moving the bolt rearward to eject the cartridge.

If the bolt rotates fully "upward", but the bolt cannot be moved rearward its a sign the PE is at or below the minimum. On the typical BA action you'll see a angle cut(cam) on the top rear of the bridge. As you rotate the bolt open you'll see at some point the bolt handle contacts it. Ideally that point should be when the locking lugs clear the lead in ramps and remain in contact until the bolt is fully rotated open. I like to shoot in the .070"-.080" range.

Unfortunately insufficient PE is usually mis-diagnosed as a bad or dirty chamber.

There are quite a few things involved, PE cam engagement timing, dwell time, PE cam to abutment lead in angles and etc., nothing the typical home gun wrecker can correct. It requires relocating the bolt handle and re-timing the bolt.

My advise, contact Dan Armstrong. Dan is the best in the business. For a few bucks plus shipping he'll correct the problem and you'll have a better functioning action to boot. Turn around time is quick!
Dan Armstrong- ACCU-TIG

Bill
 
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