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Discussion Starter #1
How is the best way to determine what is the best arrows you use on a traditional style bow?

Right now I'm getting by with the arrows I am shooting out of my compound, but I have to make a change soon. Right now I'm thowing Cabelas stalker extremes in 5570 size that are 28" long. The worst part is they are about an inch too short. The string loop and wrist release I use with my compound allow me to shoot a shorter draw length.

I'm thinking I would like to stay with carbon arrows for now. I just don't feel like dealing with the issues with wood arrows, and I hate aluminum.

The arrows I'm shooting now do OK, but they fish tale a bit up and down for the first 6-8 yards. Is this because the vanes are deflecting off the riser on release? I'm guessing it's one of the reasons to use feathers?

Almost forgot. The draw weight of my bow @ 28" is 41#, but once I get longer arrows it will be drawn to 29" and the weight at that draw is 45#.
 

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The up and down fishtailing may be due to your arrows being over spined for your bow or indicative of an incorrect nock height as well. But, I would try putting feathers on one of your carbon arrows and see if that helps. If you check on Three Rivers archery, they sell sample 6 packs of carbon arrows, two at each size, so you get a better idea of what your bow shoots best. The thing I didn't like about carbon was their smaller diameter but you can't beat their consitancy when it comes to gr/inch and spine. I shoot 23/64 cedar arrows and some aluminum. As far as any issues with cedar, they are minimal and part of the fun of trad archery is making your own arrows. If you get bit heavily by the trad bug, it won't be long before you're playing around with cedar arrows. Besides, if they break, you're only out about a dollar and who doesn't like the smell of cedar! Trad guys are the only archers I ever met who are happy when one of their arrows breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The way I set my nock point was to clamp the bow to the tillering tree getting it perfectly level. I pu an arrow on the string, and leveled it.

Is this wrong?
 

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Here's how I do it: http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm

I'd guess you'd need carbon express 150s, goldtip 3555 or similar. You can go heaver spine and more weight up front to weaken it. Actually with your drawlength you may need to go a step up in stiffness - 250s or similar.
 

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A 41#@28" drawn to 29" will give you about 43-44#@29". A .500 carbon(like a Carbon Express Heritage 150)cut to 30" will work for you. Leave it full-length and cut it to tune. Feathers are a must unless you plan on using an elevated rest
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the advise guys. I used a digital fish scale to get the bow weight. Yea, at 29" I'm between 44 and 45 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After doing an exhaustive search I need some advise. I found the arrows some of you guys have meantioned, but right now I'm not dropping close to a hundred bucks or better for a dozen arrows. My home life depends on it.

I'm not married to carbon arrows, but that is where I would like to be. It's not that I totally hate aluminum arrows, but the ones spined for my bow bend too easy. I've used heavier in my compound, and they were very durable. I guess I'm just scared of wood. Plus they are just so darned expensive. Most of the arrows I can find that are reasonably priced are not availiable with feathers. No. I don't have a jig. That would be another 50 bucks or better right now.

I don't really need a whole dozen right now. Any ideas where I can get some arrows w/ feathers that don't cost 100 bucks for a dozen?
 

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I'm not one of the pros on the subject, but I'll throw in my 2 cents worth of experience for comparison. I shot the economy cedars from 3Rivers for several years, the specs determined by a fellow in an archery shop when I got started. It was obvious that my draw length changed over time, and maybe my collection of arrows weren't too well matched either. Since I haven't got into building my own yet, I decided to go carbon for awhile. I used the Stu Miller calculator mentioned above to get a good guess on what to start with, and had planned to trade for different ones if they weren't quite right on the TradGang website. Turns out they were just right (I did play with different head weights to fine tune). They did cost a bit more than $100, but I know they'll last me a good bit longer than the last dozen cedars did. Beman MFX Classics.
 
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