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i asked a question a few days ago about helical fletching with 2inch vanes. i was impressed with the feedback i got. there are a lot of people on here that know a thing or two about archery. im asking these questions b/c i need to buy arrows. i haven't purchased arrows in probably 5 years. im shooting Easton axis now. i have zero complaints. i just want some feedback on what you guys think. im not a target a shooter but do shoot 3d's on the weekends with friends. ive always shot the same the arrow for 3d's as i do for hunting. im just looking for some input or suggestions.
 

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I switched to Easton ACC Pros last year after using CX Mazximas for the previous 5 years. I love em. I'm shooting a heavy poundage bow and they tuned nicely, alot better than the CXs. I put em through two deer this year and the performed awesome. Neither one broke or bent. It is a hard hitting setup.

The other reason i switched, CXs are being made in Mexico where Easton is still American made. For the same cost and better performance there was no doubt on what to use.
 

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I am a big fan of Easton and Beman arrows. Most of their shafts are still made in the USA (some are not) but they are very durable and always tune well for me. I am currently shooting Bloodline shafts but would like to go to FMJ's because I'd like to get my arrow weight up. Right now I am at 404 grains and I'd like them to be at least 450. I shot two deer last year and both were pass through and buried 6-8" in the dirt but if I hit bone I worry my lighter arrows might not perform as well. I don't aim for bone, but sometimes it happens outside of our control.
 

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If you are only shooting 3D for fun, a great time out with friends and buddies, and a way to get ready for hunting, then by all means keep shooting the arrows you hunt with, and the bow set up to hunt. When November roles around and that buck is at 30 yds, you will draw, aim, and shoot with confidence.

If you are looking to compete in 3D for money or prizes, then you need to look at your wallet first and see how much you want to spend. Then look for an arrow that will maximize your scoring, and still be spined correctly for your setup, and possibly increase your speed in order to minimize the arrow drop over distance. That's given you don't want to invest in a different bow, site, or move into one of the open classes, with stabilizers, scopes, lights, lenses, etc. Then you better get long arms and short pockets, because there is little you will buy that can be transferred to a hunting setup.

There is nothing wrong with the arrows you are using to hunt with. As long as you can get them cut to your length, and all the components you need, stay with them.
 
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