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I do. It also has helped me with getting close. It is very easy to input all your load info. I don’t have many Nikons anymore but use it for other scopes as well and like just pick a scope that is close to what I have in other brands.
 

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There are many ballistic apps available. They are not for Sight In but for shooting past an established distance you are zeroed at. I use one called JBM Ballistics. It will give you a ton of info and is more accurate than most supplied by the scope companies. Its accuracy of course depends on the info you load into it. Try it,. it is a lot of fun. You can input wind speed, speed of a moving target and receive clicks of elevation needed and lead needed. However, if your serious about shooting live game at extended range you should verify by live fire practice. Remember, if you skip or guess any of the required info the program asks for it will affect the accuracy of the info you receive. The program is free, no download required. Speaking of initial sight in, I see lots of rounds fired trying to get on paper. If you have not bore sighted and you have a bank back stop, pick out a rock and zero on it then go to paper. You will not miss the entire bank. Works best if you have some one to spot where you are hitting on the bank.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Before Nikonspoton was out I sighted my slug guns and muzzleloaders to what I know......for example my Savage 220 when I got it back in 2011 I knew nothing of NikonSpotOn....I sighted in to be 3" high at 50 yards, I of course moved the target out to 75, 100, 125, 150 and so forth and found that dead center was 160 yards, 4 years ago I started using it, and found it to be pretty much on point and gets you ---- close..it's a tool
 

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I have Nikon scopes on 3 rifles but they don't have the BDC cross wires. I had one some years ago when they first came out and used Spot On to zero a 30/06 Browning Abolt 2 that I put the scope on, it worked good and was easy to use. But here's the thing,, I hardly ever shot past 100 yards at deer or bear so I just went back to the regular cross wires.
If I was in a area where my shots were going to be out past 300 yards I'd use the Spot On from Nikon or a guide similar to zero my rifle.
 
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