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Discussion Starter #1
Was wondering if anyone has tried these, also want opinions on my intended use on a spring bear hunt.

I'm planning on carrying my TC Renegade cap gun this spring on my New Brunswick bear hunt. I've been wanting to do this for the past couple of hunts but have been reluctant due to the fear of spooking a bear cocking the gun and setting the trigger. I've tried practicing working the trigger while cocking, but the trigger is stiff and it's hard to do consistently. Additionally, even if I could cock it like that, the trigger pull is awful without setting the set trigger and there is no way to set it without the tell tale click. My thought is this devise will not only serve to help weatherproof the gun in case of wet weather, but would serve as a "safety" so I could sit on stand with the gun cocked and the trigger set. Waddaya think?

Nipple Covers & Replacement Nipples & "O" Rings
 

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Similar to a leather "shoe" for a flinter.You could leave it cocked and slip primmer on right before the shot with primmer holder.
 

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When I use a caplock with a threat of rain, or in the rain I do this.

Get some plastic wrap and rubber bands or electrical tape. With the hammar left unemcumbered, and the cap on the nipple, wrap the plastic wrap completely around the lock and the stock being careful not to puncture it, but tight enough to form a seal. Now lock it in place with the tape, fore and aft of the lock. Now your cap is water proofed...... cock and fire at will.

Another piece of plastic wrap covering the muzzle, (ONLY ONE LAYER), also secured by electrical tape will solve the problem of rain or snow down bore. It will not change POI.

Not traditional I realize, but super effective.
 

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Sitting with a muzzleloader cocked and trigger set is a very bad idea, set the trigger if you want, but dont cock it ahead of time.

And be sure your gloves wont trip the trigger while you ease your finger inside the trigger guard.
 

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Maybe have someone like Brad Emig in Hellam go over the lock? He tuned a few of my factory flinters and it really softened the sound plus the pull was very light/crisp compared to what came out of the factory. Some of the factory locks such as TC are almost unsuitable for use out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sitting with a muzzleloader cocked and trigger set is a very bad idea...

I certainly agree with an exposed cap, but my thinking is that since the above devise completely encapsulates the cap in brass, it would make it impossible for the hammer to strike the cap until the devise is removed. No?


...set the trigger if you want, but dont cock it ahead of time....

It's possible to set the trigger without cocking the gun? Will that make a difference in how loud cocking the hammer is?
 

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I must confess that I was a Hunter Education Team Captain for nearly 20 years, so erring on the side of safety and caution is always foremost in my thinking.

Yes. That devise should serve as mentioned so long as the cap is not installed on the nipple. And I agree the trigger can be set reguardless of the hammar position, but I havent found the click of setting the trigger to scare off any but the closest deer.

Loggys suggestion of having the lock smoothed and tuned will work very well. I have done this to all mine,and it can make it lighter as well as quieter.

I still have a problem with a fully cocked muzzleloader untill at the very least the target is in sight, and headed to a shooting lane. How someone chooses to set up for an animal is up to them, but the nipple cover to me is only a weather proofing device which would need to be removed before a shot.

Whether caplock or flintlock, once I think the animal will come in for a clear shot, I "silent" cock the gun by depressing the trigger and fully cocking the hammar. I release the trigger while holding the hammar fully rearward, then SLOWLY lower the hammar untill I am certain its holds securely. At this point I set the trigger. It takes very little motion, and forces concentration.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
... I "silent" cock the gun by depressing the trigger and fully cocking the hammar. I release the trigger while holding the hammar fully rearward, then SLOWLY lower the hammar untill I am certain its holds securely. At this point I set the trigger. It takes very little motion, and forces concentration.
Well, like I said in my OP, I've practiced cocking like you're saying, but it's very difficult with my Renegade, the trigger is incredibly stiff without the hammer cocked.

Far as the sound of cocking and setting the trigger spooking game; I've killed a bunch of deer with this gun and with deer it's not an issue, but a bear at 15 or 20 yards on a bait is a whole 'nother story. I can't tell you how many times on these hunts guys with lever guns like the Marlins and such have spooked bears cocking the hammer on those guns.

Not sure how I'll solve this, I'm just tired of killing bears with my shotgun, and I've killed one with a crossbow; I really want to do it with the ML, really is the only reason I booked another hunt. :smile2:
 

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[QU

Not sure how I'll solve this, I'm just tired of killing bears with my shotgun, and I've killed one with a crossbow; I really want to do it with the ML, really is the only reason I booked another hunt. :smile2:[/QUOTE]

Go with your gut. I dont hunt bear, so I had no clue they reacted more so than deer. I do know when they pad in they are very quiet. If it were breezy/noisy I would be inclined to wait till I knew they were close, but thats me.

If the smithy can smooth out the lock, (my Renegade was pretty good from the start, just needed a lttle wearing in 40 yrs ago), if you are very careful and the arthritis isnt playing havok that day, once it is silent cocked you can actually set the trigger while holding both the trigger and hammar all the way back, then setting the trigger. Then let things forward as before. It works, takes two hands and a practice..... i have done it.

Try it, my old friend Bob Patterson, was able to do it with one hand, and eyes on the deer. Thats who taught me the trick. Make sure the lock is clean and lubed and please let me know how it goes.
 

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A lot of times I have not even used the set trigger when hunting if the deer is inside 40-50 yds. I just silent cock. My "hunting" triggers usually break at 3 1/2 lbs. If further than 50 yds and need a little finer shooting due to longer distance (or target shooting) I will set. Set I usually have them set up to break at 2 lb or a little bit less. I don't even put my finger in the trigger guard until sight are lined up then.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A lot of times I have not even used the set trigger when hunting if the deer is inside 40-50 yds. I just silent cock. My "hunting" triggers usually break at 3 1/2 lbs. If further than 50 yds and need a little finer shooting due to longer distance (or target shooting) I will set. Set I usually have them set up to break at 2 lb or a little bit less. I don't even put my finger in the trigger guard until sight are lined up then.

Yes, I can shoot without setting the trigger, but that's not really my concern; my concern is that it's extremely difficult for me to silent cock my renegade (and yes, I know how to do it). It takes everything I have to pull that darn trigger without the hammer already being cocked, I also have small hands which doesn't help matters. Now my White Mountain Carbine flinter with the single trigger, is easy for me to silent cock.

USAF_SP, do you do your own trigger work?
 

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Yes, I do my own trigger work. I work on the Tumbler, sear, sear spring as well as adjust trigger spring and trigger screw. Mostly stuff I learned at seminars at Dixon's gun maker fair. Mr. Casteel gave a great talk on lock and trigger tuning
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, I do my own trigger work. I work on the Tumbler, sear, sear spring as well as adjust trigger spring and trigger screw. Mostly stuff I learned at seminars at Dixon's gun maker fair. Mr. Casteel gave a great talk on lock and trigger tuning

Do you have any idea why my TC would have such a stiff trigger? We're talking un-cocked.
 

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You may be able to try backing the trigger spring a quarter turn or a little less. Take the trigger assy out. There should be a leaf spring held by a screw to the trigger plate at one end. Back it off a little bit. Just a little at a time. Too much and it will get sloppy and trigger may not set. Just guessing on my part without seeing it. Never dealt with any TC guns.


I take that back, My 1st flintlock was a TC PA Hunter. Hated it because of the trigger and traded it off 1st chance I got. Was before I know what I know now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You may be able to try backing the trigger spring a quarter turn or a little less. Take the trigger assy out. There should be a leaf spring held by a screw to the trigger plate at one end. Back it off a little bit. Just a little at a time. Too much and it will get sloppy and trigger may not set. Just guessing on my part without seeing it. Never dealt with any TC guns.


I take that back, My 1st flintlock was a TC PA Hunter. Hated it because of the trigger and traded it off 1st chance I got. Was before I know what I know now.

Thanks, I'll take it apart and look at it. I also don't think my set trigger is adjusted correctly, it's also extremely difficult to pull and set. I know that the exposed screw in the trigger guard adjusts it, but I'll have to look up how to do that, the book I had for it is long gone.
 

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Trigger spring may also loosen the set trigger a bit. It is all a balancing act. Can be tricky. Like i said, i never messed with TC so just guessing on my part. May be worth it to take to Dixons or Ft Chambers and spend a few bucks. You are also close, i may be able to look at it
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Trigger spring may also loosen the set trigger a bit. It is all a balancing act. Can be tricky. Like i said, i never messed with TC so just guessing on my part. May be worth it to take to Dixons or Ft Chambers and spend a few bucks. You are also close, i may be able to look at it

Well, let me fool with it a bit, and if I need any help I'll send you a PM and maybe bring it over to you to have a look see. I'm in Linglestown.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Trigger spring may also loosen the set trigger a bit. It is all a balancing act. Can be tricky. Like i said, i never messed with TC so just guessing on my part. May be worth it to take to Dixons or Ft Chambers and spend a few bucks. You are also close, i may be able to look at it
Well, let me fool with it a bit, and if I need any help I'll send you a PM and maybe bring it over to you to have a look see. I'm in Linglestown.

Eureka! Adjusted the trigger spring as you suggested (backed it out a hair, it was torqued down the whole way) , and adjusted the set trigger per TC's instructions, and now I can easily silent cock the hammer, and easily set the set trigger (now pulls easily and just makes a very soft click). Single stage trigger is still terrible, but now I should be able to use it set just fine.


Thanks a million for the help!
 

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Eureka! Adjusted the trigger spring as you suggested (backed it out a hair, it was torqued down the whole way) , and adjusted the set trigger per TC's instructions, and now I can easily silent cock the hammer, and easily set the set trigger (now pulls easily and just makes a very soft click). Single stage trigger is still terrible, but now I should be able to use it set just fine.


Thanks a million for the help!

I just found this thread. TC locks can be a pain in the powder
horn. Glad you got the problem worked out. :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I just found this thread. TC locks can be a pain in the powder
horn. Glad you got the problem worked out. :grin2:
It's so much better now. The trigger spring screw was completely torqued down to full tight, and the set trigger screw was way off; had to turn it 4 or 5 full turns until the set trigger broke, the spec calls for only one full turn.

Single stage the trigger still is horrible, but set it's real nice. I'm sure the lock could benefit from a thorough work over by someone who knows what they are doing.
 
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